About to put head on..tips?

Wouldn't the use of ARP studs have avoided this issue entirely?

I'm facing the same procedure, and am having second thoughts about using head bolts instead of studs.

Drew
 
67drewstang":3ados9f4 said:
Wouldn't the use of ARP studs have avoided this issue entirely?

I'm facing the same procedure, and am having second thoughts about using head bolts instead of studs.

Drew
Click to expand...

yes, but sometimes using head studs is not practical. remember you have to lift the head over the studs to get it off, and sometimes, even with the six, there isnt room to do that.
 
Is there any way to shift the wear point more towards the middle? the overall movement looks close to center other than being to one side?? Like to hear your guys thoughts, Im still learning the basics on the geometry here.


Lee
 
It could be done it all depends on how much time and funds you want to use. Several of the ways it can be done
1. using different ratio rocker arms IE Roller type or finding another make or model that can be adapted.
2. offsetting or moving the complete rocker shaft assembly so that the arc of travel is centered.
3. making or finding some offset rocker bushings.

Good luck in the quest :nod:
 
Is it normal for the rockers to be like that? not centered over all/some of them?

Also, curious if where the wear mark is on the valve tip is good? It seemed fairly close to being centered from that angle.

Thanks, Lee
 
That would not be the ideal you would want them in their arc of travel to stay near the center of the valve tip anything else can cause faster valve guide wear. Have you checked the valve spring install height? Are the valve stem tip flat across IE 90 degrees from the valve guide? Are the valves sitting up high in the combustion chamber IE not sunken from worn or excessively ground valve seats?
 
I did some looking, the installed height is 1.60"

But after looking more I strongly believe the pedestals spaceing the rockers apart are too wide I took a couple pics, check it out, didn't notice until now but its the same for every cylinder.

Pics give straight shot at both rockers for cyl #2, but its the same for all of them
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... sort=3&o=0
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... sort=3&o=1

Also is there special bolts for the rocker shaft? I couldn't find my original ones so I used just some 3/8 3" bolts... like tthey narrow or something for oil flow? I could steal from another engine if need be.

Lee
 
The too wide alignment has always been lke that,must be a reason, maybe just a compromise. As far as your contoct marks, nothing is machined perfect . Hopefully every thing will break in together. The bolts are necked down some.They are very good bolts and the washer that goes with them are hardened thick washers.
 
Alright, I was thinking that since all of them were that way, I may snag the bolts off my other motor then since theyre necked down, obviously for good reason,

another thing, the rockers just resting on the tips like they are now, theyre pretty darn close to center from when I quickly looked earlier today which im assuming is good

Thanks for your input guys, Ill try and update later on :beer:

Lee
 
Can you post a picture of one valve at close, and the same value at full open. They look good from the pictures posted, but the open/close pictures will tell more. I am interested in the seat of the valve contact and rocker. Looks like it's coming along nicely.

Thx
 
merccomet":1ngr0lcd said:
Hey guys have a couple more questions for you

First the head is ready for the direct mount adapter to be put on it, just wondering if I just use some gasket goo on the mating surface between the head and plate.
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... sort=3&o=2
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... sort=3&o=1

Another is can I hook the pcv into this white connection on the bottom air filter plate?
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... sort=3&o=0

Thanks, Lee
Click to expand...

Yes you can use gasket sealer if you want and is a good idea too, however don't use the silicone types fuel attacks it, the non hardening permatex or sealers like it will work. The white connector on your air filter would go to the valve cover breather (oil filler cap) the PCV needs to be hooked up to base of the carb (best) if you have the hose fitting connection on your carb, on the carb adapter plate (also very good), or lastly you can also hook it up at the vacuum fitting on intake vacuum tap. Good luck :nod:
 
Alright cool, Thanks bubba for all the great info, I will use something to make a homemade gasket then coat both sides with permetex form a gasket No.3 for the adapter plate

and I do have a old tap that fits the threaded hole in the new plate and it has three barbs on it, which I can hook up the trans, dizzy, and now the pcv so I guess it worked out pretty good

Thanks again, Lee
 
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