ADAPTOR LOCATED- adaptor for 1.75" large log head
- Thread starter dayman
- Start date
Normally I'd send you to classicinlines.com, but given the current situation..
Have you considered ordering from
Tom Langdon's Stovebolt website?
Carter Weber Carburetor $95
1bbl to 2bbl -- FordSix Forum
Have you considered ordering from
Tom Langdon's Stovebolt website?
Carter Weber Carburetor $95
Adapter 1 BBL to 2 BBL Fits Carter / Weber $17
32/36 A DGEV Electric Choke Weber Carburetor $220
Eons ago, I made my own adapter. I'll see if I can scare up the pictures and dimensions.
1bbl to 2bbl -- FordSix Forum
Langdons is a good source for the adapter, that's what I've got under my 32/36.
Here's a thread where I modded it to get rid of the goofy Ford spacer: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32460
One important note, you're prolly going to want to find a DFV carb instead of a DGV series carb. The DFV is a mirror-image of the DFV, which puts the throttle "pull" in the right direction, as well as a couple of other small issues.
IIRC, the DFV series (including the electric choke DFEV) was made by Holley, licensed by Weber for Ford (I guess that's why the "F"?) for use on Pintos, etc. it's also known as the H/W 5200. Landon's used to sell them, but I see he no longer does. I don't know where else to look for them, but be aware that you can run into odd jetting setups like mine has - it's got a HUGE idle air bleed, which is a pressed-in part that NOBODY online has replacements for. It makes mine WAY lean at idle and off- idle, and so I ended up putting a piece of *thin* shim stock with a smaller hole in it over the air bleed to get the idle mix back in line.
Not to mention that no matter where you get a 32/36 type carb from, you're going to end up messing around with the jetting - lots of good info in these forums on that, just do some searching and you'll be busy reading for a week.
I'm not knocking the 32/36 carb at all, but if I'd have known then what I know now, I'd have gone a different direction - probably had the intake milled for a direct-mount Autolite or Holley "regular" 2-bbl carb. pulling the head and machining it sounds like a lot, but it'd have simpler and cheaper in the long run.
Something else to consider, sticking with a Ford 1-bbl like a Carter YF (I'm not a big fan of them), a Carter RBS (I like them), or an Autolite 1100 or 1101 (I also like them, but not as much as the RBS). Unless you're adding a header and other performance parts, there's not really a LOT (imho) to be gained by going 2-bbl.
Here's a thread where I modded it to get rid of the goofy Ford spacer: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32460
One important note, you're prolly going to want to find a DFV carb instead of a DGV series carb. The DFV is a mirror-image of the DFV, which puts the throttle "pull" in the right direction, as well as a couple of other small issues.
IIRC, the DFV series (including the electric choke DFEV) was made by Holley, licensed by Weber for Ford (I guess that's why the "F"?) for use on Pintos, etc. it's also known as the H/W 5200. Landon's used to sell them, but I see he no longer does. I don't know where else to look for them, but be aware that you can run into odd jetting setups like mine has - it's got a HUGE idle air bleed, which is a pressed-in part that NOBODY online has replacements for. It makes mine WAY lean at idle and off- idle, and so I ended up putting a piece of *thin* shim stock with a smaller hole in it over the air bleed to get the idle mix back in line.
Not to mention that no matter where you get a 32/36 type carb from, you're going to end up messing around with the jetting - lots of good info in these forums on that, just do some searching and you'll be busy reading for a week.
I'm not knocking the 32/36 carb at all, but if I'd have known then what I know now, I'd have gone a different direction - probably had the intake milled for a direct-mount Autolite or Holley "regular" 2-bbl carb. pulling the head and machining it sounds like a lot, but it'd have simpler and cheaper in the long run.
Something else to consider, sticking with a Ford 1-bbl like a Carter YF (I'm not a big fan of them), a Carter RBS (I like them), or an Autolite 1100 or 1101 (I also like them, but not as much as the RBS). Unless you're adding a header and other performance parts, there's not really a LOT (imho) to be gained by going 2-bbl.
Thanks CoupeBoy and jamyers. I appreciate the info. I have looked at Tom Langdon's Stovebolt website and bought an adapter a few years back and even Weber carb when he had the rebuilt 32/36. Of course I have sold all that stuff thinking I would never need it again. I recently sold my 250 2v head and intake, I need the stuff I got rid of.
I have a Carter YF carb on the engine now. It runs OK, but getting an air breather to fit is a challenge. The engine is a 250 in a 66 Mustang. Hood clearance is really close. I have another head, so I may get it machined for an adapter. This ting is a daily driver, so it does not take much to keep it going.
We are really going to miss CI if it goes out of business.
Again, thanks for the suggestions.
I have a Carter YF carb on the engine now. It runs OK, but getting an air breather to fit is a challenge. The engine is a 250 in a 66 Mustang. Hood clearance is really close. I have another head, so I may get it machined for an adapter. This ting is a daily driver, so it does not take much to keep it going.
We are really going to miss CI if it goes out of business.
Again, thanks for the suggestions.
For hood clearance you can look for air filter assemblies like this.
This is a 250 I have sitting in the back of the barn.
and to get more hood clearance you can drill new holes in your motor mounts higher than the stock ones so the motor sits lower.
And to really get crazy you could always contact this guy and see if he has any more prototypes that he might be willing to send you.
Small Six Motor Mount Dimensions -- FordSix Forum
Bottom slot for 144/170/200's, Top slot for 250's.
This is a 250 I have sitting in the back of the barn.
and to get more hood clearance you can drill new holes in your motor mounts higher than the stock ones so the motor sits lower.
And to really get crazy you could always contact this guy and see if he has any more prototypes that he might be willing to send you.
Small Six Motor Mount Dimensions -- FordSix Forum
Bottom slot for 144/170/200's, Top slot for 250's.
... here's a 'Stovebolt" 2X1 with a 5200 version of the 32/36. It's been on my Falcon Wagon's '78 250 large log Head on a late 170 with a T5 for @ 7-8 years. It idles smooth hot or cold and the mild kick in the pants opening the Secondary adds some fun .
I met Tom Langdon at Hershey PA last fall and shared a few Ford related Six cylinder applications of his items available ...
have fun
. 
I met Tom Langdon at Hershey PA last fall and shared a few Ford related Six cylinder applications of his items available ...
have fun
. 
Thanks CoupeBoy. Is that an old Pontiac Overhead cam six I see in the barn picture? I had a 65 hardtop GTO I put one of those in after I blew the 389. Wish I still had the car.
Thanks powerband. I have will go through all the information and see what will work best. Really appreciate it.
Thanks powerband. I have will go through all the information and see what will work best. Really appreciate it.
coupeboy":klx9bguj said:
Sorry about the images being down before, my buddy has a static IP address and hosts my stuff for free. Sometimes free stuff comes with a price..
Here is how I originally made mine.
I bought gaskets for all the ports that I wanted to mate up.
Then I traced them onto paper.
Cut them out
And placed the paper templates onto the motor to get an idea of where they needed to be an what orientation.
Compared my desired layout to the layout of the Stovebolt adapter
Back in the day, my coworker had a neighbor that had a Bridgeport in his home shop, that is what I used, but you could easily drill these holes with a plan drill.
Mine was made from a piece of 3/4" thick aluminum. And after the 1/4" 5200 gasket was stacked on it, the whole adapter from intake to carb base was 1" tall.
And this shot is when I was hand filing the tapered opening.
I still have this adapter at home, somewhere, I'll have to see if I can find it and get a picture of the final part. I used the mill to reduce the outer dimensions of the block.
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