Adjusting valves?

64 inboard

Well-known member
Hi All,
Been a while since I posted, Ive got a 1964 Correct Craft inboard boat powered by an "Interceptor" 170 inline 6.
Im not at all familiar with this engine.. Im wondering about the right proceeedure for adjusting the valves on the engine. All the manual says is to run the motor for 20 mins or so to warm it up. Then set the lash at .016. Do you manually turn the engine over to the high "spot" of the cam on each cylinder?, then just use a feeler gauge?

Ive always adjusted valves with the engines while running, backing the locknut off til the rocker clatters and then tightening them from there...

Any secrets to doing this on this motor? Thanks!
 
The way your used to doing it is for hydrolick lifters. your motor may have solid lifters in it.. then you must adjust with the lifter on the base part (no lift) of the cam.. not on the hight lift part...
 
Im not sure , but I think it has hydraulic lifters... is there any easy way to tell? ie..the adjuster nuts style/or something?

btw, someone told me head is newer than the block ?..

block casting number.. C 3DE 6015-E
head casting number.. C 3DE 6090-AA
 
Your head and block are BOTH 1963 castings.
In mid-decade Ford part numbers, the first character designates the decade (C for 60's, D for 70's, E for 80's)
The second character designates the year in that decade.
So, C3 = 1963.

Should be mechanical lifters in that block, assuming the marine engines were the same as the automotive engines.
That being the case, you should be able to roll it to number 1 cylinder TDC on Compression stroke, set that pair of valves, then roll to TDC of number 5, set that pair, then 3, then 6, then 2, then number 4 last.
Each step should be roughly 120-degrees apart as you rotate with a breaker bar.
I know it sounds a bit anal, but if you start at 1 and follow the firing order you won't be going nuts trying to figure out where you're at with compression stroke. Just don't pass on the way by.

My 2-c worth anyways...
 
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