I finally gave up on my original factory molded PCV hose, as the rubber was badly deteriorated. I have not seen any replacement hoses from the usual suspects. The straight piece of hose I put on works of course, but the routing is not so tidy. I found a little plastic right angle adapter used in some PCV.applications to put on the valve top. It helps a lot, but it's plastic, and being an add-on, it's taller than it would have to be. I see some PCVs for other cars at the parts store have the elbow built in, so it's steel and has a lower profile. Does anyone here know of any PCV that would be an appropriate flow rate, or spring pressure, or however they're rated, for a Ford 200 I6, that also has the 90* top and would fit in the valve cover grommet? Yes, there's a chrome plated one out there, but it might as well be gold plated for the price they charge.
All Small Six Alternative PCV Configuration?
- Thread starter TrickSix
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
If you think the chrome plated one's are expensive then you won't like my answer. 
the adjustable is sweet (we got reports).
Go for correct M/M/Y 1st off as it matters. The typical vendors have 5 or 6 different 'style' holders/adaptors. Like everything else rest0mod gotta have a long list for sourcing. We usually hit vintage in lines 1st but this might B summitt, jegs, autoZone, etc...
I like a 'closed system' cept for someadez webbers~
Go for correct M/M/Y 1st off as it matters. The typical vendors have 5 or 6 different 'style' holders/adaptors. Like everything else rest0mod gotta have a long list for sourcing. We usually hit vintage in lines 1st but this might B summitt, jegs, autoZone, etc...
I like a 'closed system' cept for someadez webbers~
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Thanks for the replies. But I'm not looking for a fancy high performance race ready PCV. I just want a plain Jane everyday PCV with a 90* elbow on top. As I said, I see lots of them at the parts store for other engines. A PCV is pretty low tech, seems like one of them should be compatible with a 200. I just don't know what the defining characteristics are. What's the most important factor, engine displacement, carb venturi size and/or vacuum range, or what? PCVs are usually a similar diameter, so the valves inside should be a similar size. Seems like the spring pressure might be the major thing that makes them different. But I don't know. I hoped someone here might, or has already done this.
Here is one that wont break the bank and looks good.
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Let yer fingers do the walkin
RockAuto has the right part numbers. Maybe you could start from there. My understanding is that the PCV is really based upon the vacuum signal so the spring/weight weighting appears to be key. All the ones on RockAuto would require a 90 deg hose barb in line if you're dead set on that from a hose turn perspective. Unless you can find one on the vendor site that looks like it works.
1967 FORD MUSTANG 3.3L 200cid L6 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve | RockAuto
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Yes people have done these PCV swaps many times over the years that's why in the above responses the site members are trying to guide you in what they learned. X4 It's been found that using the applacation specific PCV (spec'ed for a 200 / 3.3 Ford Six and in the right year range) works out the best for a stock or a mild performance built 200 as it has the correct vacuum flow volume engineered for these Zford Six'es. On a more high performance built engine than the first answer you received from "65coupei6" is the best solution since it can be tuned to any engine combo.
I get were your coming from did the same on many of the engines over the years putting in the effort to get the best looking, functional, plumbing for a clean looking install. The lowest cost unit is to get the stock 200 / year model spec PCV, find a new or used PCV that has the plastic 90 degree top and warm it up with a heat gun to remove it then install that 90 top on the 200 PCV problem solved without any extra engine tuning issues. The plastic 90 tops might be available new as a separate repair part and might able to be trimed down in height from 1/8 to 3/16 or more of an inch as long as the internal vacuum flow path isn't blocked. Best of luck
I get were your coming from did the same on many of the engines over the years putting in the effort to get the best looking, functional, plumbing for a clean looking install. The lowest cost unit is to get the stock 200 / year model spec PCV, find a new or used PCV that has the plastic 90 degree top and warm it up with a heat gun to remove it then install that 90 top on the 200 PCV problem solved without any extra engine tuning issues. The plastic 90 tops might be available new as a separate repair part and might able to be trimed down in height from 1/8 to 3/16 or more of an inch as long as the internal vacuum flow path isn't blocked. Best of luck
Right. That's why I said he would need a 90 deg barb or to go to the vendor website to see if there was a different housing option available.