Another Turbo 300 in an F150

I was thinking:
you could get a section of stainless piping that will fit in the radiator hose (not sure if upper or lower would be better)
On the piping in the radiator, weld on two fittings that will fit heater core lines
Set up two or three heater cores in series and tuck them away either along the frame or in the front bumper (I know there's room in my truck's bumper for them, not sure about yours)
Add a fan to each heater core and get goin

Good thing about the heater line, you could get one of the modern, electrically controlled heater control valves to open or close the line to ensure you don't overcool on the street. Add an inline pump to get the correct flow to it.



Either that, or add an auxiliary radiator somewhere, but doing that, the only places I can think of to put it would take away functionality from the truck.
Possibly add it into the tailgate somehow so you'd get airflow over it? It would be difficult to do and to pull off properly
 
Yeah the later models actually came with Al radiators. I found one at the junk yard but they wanted $85 so I passed. You can find an entire truck for $400.
 
Been busy all summer with the family, so just getting my engine back together.
Here is the pushrod guideplate and valve seals to accomidate double springs.
IMG_2113.jpg

Here is the 1.94/1.6 intake and exhaust valves not quite touching :)
This head was off a carbed 300 motor so it doesn't have the shrouding around the intake valve.
IMG_2118.jpg

Here are the roller rockers.
IMG_2120.jpg
 
Not much... been stuggleing with getting the valve cover to seal. The stock valve cover didn't fit over rocker arm studs, so I cut and brazed 2 together. I had it bolted to a head when I brazed it, but it still warped. :banghead: I ended up putting a big bead of RTV on the valve cover and setting on a piece of wax paper. This way I can take to valve cover on and off without having redo the RTV every time. I have been air testing the engine with an air compressor and using soapy water to check for leaks. I have had the valve cover off a dozen times, but now I got it to seal up. Now time to put the manifolds on and front accessory drive.
 
I thought you just had to remove the baffles in the top to get it to fit larger rockers?

I have seen, somewhere, steel or aluminum spacers for extra clearance.
 
Asa":2m9pfoeu said:
I thought you just had to remove the baffles in the top to get it to fit larger rockers?

I have seen, somewhere, steel or aluminum spacers for extra clearance.
Click to expand...

It depends on how long the valves are that you are running and how much lift, I suppose. I may have been to get by with a spacer, but I needed about 3/8 inch more to clear.
 
It was a sad day for inlines...
I finished putting the engine back together and putting it back in the truck. It started up good idled good sounded great with the cam and bigger valves. And then I realized, I was still getting coolant in the oil, checked cylinder number #5, and it was still coolant fouled like before I pulled the engine apart. So what do I do, the only thing I can do pull the head back off, and what do I find a crack in the cylinder wall on #5. So I tore the engine down to the bare block and it is at a machine shop waiting to be sleeved. :arg:
 
I do have a few quick questions about your fuel pressure regulator.

1. Where did you get it?

2. What material did you use to modify the fuel rail for it? Looks like black plumbing pipe from here.

3. Did you have to use AN- fittings? I would feel safer if I could use double flared fittings with the regulator, especially at that pressure.
 
I bought it from a friend of mine. You can get them whereever online.
It is hyd hose good for 4000psi :)
JIC 37 degree flare male fitting brazed to rail. hyd hose with female 37 degree flare. SAE O-ring boss into the regulator.
Basically all hyd fittings, I probably wouldn't have done it that way if I didn't have access to all the stuff at work.
 
Truck has been back on the road for couple months now. When I first got it together it wouldn't make boost. It would make a few psi before cutting out ete, so I bumped the fuel up and down, played with the timing a bit nothing seemed to help. So before spending to much time troubleshooting, I thought I should put the inner valve springs in just to be sure that wasn't causing a problem. (FYI for those not familiar typically on non-roller cam setup with double valve springs and high spring pressure you break the CAM in with just the outer valve spring.) After putting the inner springs in the problem went away. It pulls hard all the way to 20 lbs of boost and makes mad power. About 6psi of boost in this setup is equivalent to 20psi in the previous setup with stock head cam valve train. Now it will do rolling burnouts in third. At about 45 mph and 15psi tires break loose!
 
sweetjesus yes... a 300-six in a pickup truck doing a rolling burnout in 3rd gear at 50 mph is something i have GOT to see.
 
I have a couple of videos from a go pro, but the file size is huge and I haven't found any free video editing software.
I ran against a 2009 mustang and a F150 Rapter 6.2lt.
The engine has held together all summer hot rodding around at 20psi of boost, and stock pistons, rods, and crank.
I just pulled the engine out after a nasty rattle that the engine shop thought sounded like main bearing. Turned out it was just the flywheel that had come loose. I torqued them to the specs when I put them on but only the bolts hold the engine torque, so the increased torque from boost must have loosened them. Next time locktight will be used hopefully that fixes it.

Planning to do a trany swap from the m5od to a c6. Anyone else have experience with this? Trans mount does line up not sure how to go about correcting it.
The c6 is about 3.5 inches longer than the m5od, but the trany mount holes are about 2 inches closer to the bell housing.
 
awesome! do one from inside the cab now. I want to hear the engine with turbo spool LOL.


I want to turbo my 91 AND keep a/c. Your set up looks a little close to the a/c lines. DOes your truck have working a/c?
 
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