All Small Six Any info or video links on how to remove the smog pump and emissions system on my 1967 Mustang?

[Tmacdagreat]

Any info or video links on how to remove the smog pump and emissions system on my 1967 Mustang? I can’t find any videos or information on how to do this.

 

[TrickSix]

I don't know much about these emission control systems. But looking at your pictures the whole system is in remarkable condition for its age. Since these systems are often rusty, wrecked, or removed, some concours show-pony owner might covet the parts. Maybe you can get some money for them. It would be better if you could swap the Thermactor head for one without the injectors in the exhaust ports too.

 

[Frank]

Air Injection Reaction (AIR) pump systems are pretty much self contained on pre-computer vehicles. Basically, just remove the pump and everything attached to it. Plug any vacuum lines, and all exhaust intrusion points where ever they are. Does the belt interact with any other component? If not this is a straightforward project. It may be wise to shoot all fittings which are exposed to high heat with PB blaster. For old rusty exhaust components, I'll spray a light shot daily when the engine's cold. It smokes a little when first running but the heat/cool/reapply cycles will soften it up enough to remove without damage or stripping the flange nuts. Grease works on hot exhaust fasteners too. A small dab when cold, drive it normal. repeat daily for a week., and the fasteners will come off without an attitude.

 

[TrickSix]

Ford made special plugs for the air injection fittings in the exhaust ports. They are still available, I see them on ebay and I think somebody was offering some for sale on this forum not too long ago. Even with a factory designed plug there will still be a small obstruction in the exhaust port though. Probably not a huge performance killer, but Thermactor heads should be avoided if you're looking for more power.

 

[Frank]

Ford made special plugs for the air injection fittings in the exhaust ports. They are still available, I see them on ebay and I think somebody was offering some for sale on this forum not too long ago. Even with a factory designed plug there will still be a small obstruction in the exhaust port though. Probably not a huge performance killer, but Thermactor heads should be avoided if you're looking for more power.

Some early systems injected the air in a single location. I can't see from his pics if there are 6 individual injection ports or not, but it looks more like one of the early systems to me. He may only have to do one or perhaps two exhaust plugs in the manifold or pipe. ??

 

[TrickSix]

I agree there isn't a very good view of the injection manifold pipes. The front one is about the only one showing. That looks like the regular inject in all six port system, but all I know about it is from a few postings here. Maybe @RubeGoldberg can tell... If it was mine I'd be looking to swap the whole surprisingly immaculate mess head and all for a good non-Thermactor head, maybe a large log?

 

[Tmacdagreat]

Air Injection Reaction (AIR) pump systems are pretty much self contained on pre-computer vehicles. Basically, just remove the pump and everything attached to it. Plug any vacuum lines, and all exhaust intrusion points where ever they are. Does the belt interact with any other component? If not this is a straightforward project. It may be wise to shoot all fittings which are exposed to high heat with PB blaster. For old rusty exhaust components, I'll spray a light shot daily when the engine's cold. It smokes a little when first running but the heat/cool/reapply cycles will soften it up enough to remove without damage or stripping the flange nuts. Grease works on hot exhaust fasteners too. A small dab when cold, drive it normal. repeat daily for a week., and the fasteners will come off without an attitude.

Yes the belt is hooked up to what looks like the radiator fan and some other pulley on the bottom of that

 

[Tmacdagreat]

I agree there isn't a very good view of the injection manifold pipes. The front one is about the only one showing. That looks like the regular inject in all six port system, but all I know about it is from a few postings here. Maybe @RubeGoldberg can tell... If it was mine I'd be looking to swap the whole surprisingly immaculate mess head and all for a good non-Thermactor head, maybe a large log?

Here’s more pics

 

[TrickSix]

And there is a good view there. Definitely the regular all 6 port injection system.

 

[Frank]

And there is a good view there. Definitely the regular all 6 port injection system.

Yes it sure enough is. Tmacdagreat, thanks for the pics. you'll have to get six taper seat pipe ends out of the head. And plug the holes with the correct bolt. A small6 guy can tell you the size, I don't know it. I will say the plugs on the 300 are metric, which I find surprising. Please do yourself a benefit and pre-lube each of the six fittings as outlined above. It is NOT WORTH the hassle if one of those wrings or strips off. People have tried just cutting the pipes off and crimping them. It does not work, there will be an exhaust leak somewhere, plus looks stupid-bad.
The water pump and alt have their own belt, so just remove the AIR pump belt.
It's REALLY going to look good without all that plumbing! Can probably remove the pump bracket too. I recommend doing this project, I've done it on every vehicle that came with AIR. Except perhaps a vacuum line to the intake, the system is separate from the rest of the engine. Remove the 6 end pipes from the head, unbolt all other brackets and the pump, and it should lift out as one big ugly mass of confusion from pump to cylinder head.
Good luck, keep us posted. any more ?, ask.

 

[Tmacdagreat]

Yes it sure enough is. Tmacdagreat, thanks for the pics. you'll have to get six taper seat pipe ends out of the head. And plug the holes with the correct bolt. A small6 guy can tell you the size, I don't know it. I will say the plugs on the 300 are metric, which I find surprising. Please do yourself a benefit and pre-lube each of the six fittings as outlined above. It is NOT WORTH the hassle if one of those wrings or strips off. People have tried just cutting the pipes off and crimping them. It does not work, there will be an exhaust leak somewhere, plus looks stupid-bad.
The water pump and alt have their own belt, so just remove the AIR pump belt.
It's REALLY going to look good without all that plumbing! Can probably remove the pump bracket too. I recommend doing this project, I've done it on every vehicle that came with AIR. Except perhaps a vacuum line to the intake, the system is separate from the rest of the engine. Remove the 6 end pipes from the head, unbolt all other brackets and the pump, and it should lift out as one big ugly mass of confusion from pump to cylinder head.
Good luck, keep us posted. any more ?, ask.ok thanks a lot so from the looks of it, I’m going to have to remove the carburetor if I’m correct ?

 

[Tmacdagreat]

Yes it sure enough is. Tmacdagreat, thanks for the pics. you'll have to get six taper seat pipe ends out of the head. And plug the holes with the correct bolt. A small6 guy can tell you the size, I don't know it. I will say the plugs on the 300 are metric, which I find surprising. Please do yourself a benefit and pre-lube each of the six fittings as outlined above. It is NOT WORTH the hassle if one of those wrings or strips off. People have tried just cutting the pipes off and crimping them. It does not work, there will be an exhaust leak somewhere, plus looks stupid-bad.
The water pump and alt have their own belt, so just remove the AIR pump belt.
It's REALLY going to look good without all that plumbing! Can probably remove the pump bracket too. I recommend doing this project, I've done it on every vehicle that came with AIR. Except perhaps a vacuum line to the intake, the system is separate from the rest of the engine. Remove the 6 end pipes from the head, unbolt all other brackets and the pump, and it should lift out as one big ugly mass of confusion from pump to cylinder head.
Good luck, keep us posted. any more ?, ask.

ok thanks a lot so from the looks of it, I’m going to have to remove the carburetor if I’m correct ?

 

[Frank]

ok thanks a lot so from the looks of it, I’m going to have to remove the carburetor if I’m correct ?

If there's not enough room to access the pipe nuts being removed in the center cylinders then, yes. Removing the carb would make the project easier by increased access to the working area. It does not have to be removed as part of the project itself.

 

[Tmacdagreat]

If there's not enough room to access the pipe nuts being removed in the center cylinders then, yes. Removing the carb would make the project easier by increased access to the working area. It does not have to be removed as part of the project itself.

And as far as the fan belt , could I get the replacement fan belt at any local parts store

 

[TrickSix]

I don't know about getting them at any local parts store. But a few years ago I bought one over the counter for my '66 at the local O'Reilly or NAPA or something, I don't remember which. Most of them have an online search for parts function.

 

[Frank]

And as far as the fan belt , could I get the replacement fan belt at any local parts store

If I saw the picture right, there is no change of belt needed. Isn't there 1 belt from the crankshaft (bottom) around the water pump, then around the alternator? And then a separate belt on the pump? Once you remove the pump belt, the other belt is not affected.
When you need a replacement, I recommend online searching NAPA. I have found the best quality original-fit belts there.

As an aside about belts: if the belt that turns the WP and alternator has a number still legible on it- write it down now and keep it with your important car papers. It's often easier to find the correct belt by size/belt number on these obsolete vehicles. . Going to a chain parts store and asking for the belt by year and model does not assure you are getting the correct size- or quality. Having the belt # is valuable.