Firstly, I'll tell you how to mate it up. Secondly, there is a fantical list of things you must be aware of with putting it behind the 200 cube sixes or any cammed up engine.
Mate -up list.
Check out Mikes tech article on fitting the SBF V8 auto to the big bell 200.
http://fordsix.com/bigbell.html
The AOD has a less fat seam around it, and needs more delicate attention to fixing the top bolt components. Like some pan fill C4's, the bellhousing doesn't come off on the AOD. The sandwhich plate must be AOD thickness, but you will most likely get away with the stock 3.8/4.2 V6 or 5.0 V8 item.
I don't have the part number for the 200 big bell flexplate.
If it is the 157 teeth, then you have to replace it with the neutral balance TCI or Summit I6 flexplate for about 60 bucks US. It must be
the 164 tooth,
11.4375" bolt pitch item,
no 28 or 50 ounce unbalance.
If you can't use the stock flexplate, you must elogate the holes to cope with the 2.75" bolt spacing. bigger than 200 cube engines run the 3" bolt spacing for the flexplate /crank flange.
fantical list of things you must be aware of
The stock AOD runs a converter which has a stall of 1650 rpm behind a stock small block with about 210 foot pounds at 2000 rpm. With a little 200, the effective stall ratio drops even lower, maybee less than 1300 rpm. This means the normally early shifting, jump-into-o/d-at- first-chance AOD is going to be a very restrictive cap to performance
unless you run a set of 4.00 or 3.75 gears.
The 5.0 GT or 3.8 SC
2350 rpm stall converter is recomended to solve this.
Unlike GM 4-stage and Ford 3-speeds, Ford four stage o/ds are designed around
1) a
very tall first gear. It's 2.47:1, not 3.06:1 like in a THM 700. Even the late AOD-E's sat at 2.84:1 or so. This makes a tall diff, small engine and tight converter ruin the off the mark acceleration. You must lower the gearing to compensate. The over drive should be no more than 25% taller than the stock top gear on a 2.83:1 diff 200 with C4. That means you can go for a 4.30 to 3.45 diff, but the best is 4.0 to 3.75:1. ( 5-stud, 31 spline, limited slip Toyota Hi Lux diffs sit in around the 4.3 to 3.9:1 ratio, and are a bomb proof upgrade). Anything bar these ratios will murder the ability for the little six to get out of the way of any fast car.
2) a totally locked top gear which kills the t/c slippage, and makes it a pig to drive on a six cylinder car with 3.08/2.83 gears. It's stock shift tactics can ruin a cammed up car if you use the stock 2 or 3-speed auto diff ratio is used.
3) they are cranky to get set-up because maximum shifts are about 3800 rpm, and well below the 5200 rpm full throttle changes like the old C4 and FMX's had. They weigh in att 165 pounds with T/C. They can be made PowerGlide tough even with with a proper quality two element input shaft.
4) There are servo kits from 5.0's and 3.8 SC's which allow the shift point to be altered.
5) The tv cable just needs to follow stock 2-BBL/CFI 5.0 LTD/Fox practice.
Follow these rules, and it should work fine.
I've done an extensive search of car mags and the internet. I've also been working on my 4-speed Falcon. There are some pretty tragic stories around. Street Machine showed a recent article on a guy with a 289 EFI engine which became a pig with an AOD.
One other Aussie guy with a Bronco 351w in his 1966 Falcon broke his fairly early on, so it's not a great box if you don't follow the rules above.
http://www.trueblueford.com/66'XRfalconEFI351wconversionP3.html
http://www.trueblueford.com/images/66XRefi351_cover.gif
http://www.trueblueford.com/images/66XRefi351_burnout.jpg
What it does have is an 800 hp capability as a 4-stage, an increasingly better bunch of tough gear around, and a reputation as being hard to shift in the wreckers yard because not fitting up the TV cable to spec causes warranty issues. That makes it cheaper than the THM 700 or THM 200R-4. It's no were near as hard to set up.
