All Small Six Ford 200 for the "free Ranchero" disassembly and some questions (picture heavy, FYI)

[Treozen]

So, I cleaned the garage (I'll let you recover before moving on), got the 200 on the engine stand and started disassembly. Everything went fine, except nobody tells you that getting the lifters out is an interesting challenge.....to put it politely ;-)



First question - Is the brass thing here in this picture the "pilot bearing" from the manual set-up, and as I am moving to an automatic, I imagine I need to remove the pilot bearing - yes? and if so, best way to get it out?



Related question - do I still use this metal plate with the automatic? I cant think why since the auto has an entire bellhousing, but wanted to check -


The engine looked fairly clean inside. Oil was near new, so not much to go on there - pan was generally clean though - a little mess in the bottom, but not much. The lifters were a pain to get out, but they looked fine - although I tried compressing two of them and couldn't - not sure how much effort is needed, but whatever it is, I don't have it ;-). Looks to me as though the block has been rebuilt (as stated when sold) at some point - pistons appear to be .40 over.





Head valves looked ok too - to me anyway. I've certainly seen worse.


There is one odd thing. Somehow the part number from the FelPro gasket got itself "cast into" the head - now is this possible? Its the felpro gasket number embossed on the surface of the head -feels like metal, not just oil or something that hardened - weird? and should I try smooth that off before putting the new gasket on ( same gasket, I might add, just a new one). Would someone rebuild a head and then cast the gasket number onto it? Its a reverse image, just the way it would appear if you filled the part number on the gasket with filler, like a mold, then peeled it off.


All taken apart - now for the cleaning and total rebuild (which means respraying it blue).

 

[bubba22349]

Said First question - Is the brass thing here in this picture the "pilot bearing" from the manual set-up, and as I am moving to an automatic, I imagine I need to remove the pilot bearing - yes? and if so, best way to get it out?

Yes that is a Pilot Bushing for a Manual Trans to use this engine with an Auto Trans you need to remove it so that the Auto Trans Torque Convertor can be seated into the Crankshaft Pilot Hole. There are many ways to remove it from Bread, Grease, and also some Pullers.

View attachment 13252


Related question - do I still use this metal plate with the automatic? I cant think why since the auto has an entire bellhousing, but wanted to check -
View attachment 13253

That Block Spacer Plate can not be used with an Auto Trans you will need one for a C4.

View attachment 13259

There is one odd thing. Somehow the part number from the FelPro gasket got itself "cast into" the head - now is this possible? Its the felpro gasket number embossed on the surface of the head -feels like metal, not just oil or something that hardened - weird? and should I try smooth that off before putting the new gasket on ( same gasket, I might add, just a new one). Would someone rebuild a head and then cast the gasket number onto it? Its a reverse image, just the way it would appear if you filled the part number on the gasket with filler, like a mold, then peeled it off.
View attachment 13260

It' a transfer from the Composition Head Gasket, yes for sure it will need to be cleaned off before installing a new head gasket. Good luck

 

[Treozen]

That Block Spacer Plate can not be used with an Auto Trans you will need one for a C4.

I found this one:

Bellhousing Separator Plate C4 Automatic Transmission 170/200 Mustang 1966-1970

What I don't understand though is that it says its made to work with 5 or 6 bolt bell housings - I have a bellhousing from a '65, and a 66 - both are the same, and both appear to have four mount bolt holes, and I can look at the picture of the plate above and it looks to have the same hole pattern as my bellhousing(s) so it should fit, except where are they getting 5 or 6 mounting bolts? There are four..... like Picard said....."there are four lights"......

As for the transferred gasket number.....how is it transferring in embossed steel? Is it just the head material expanding into the shape of the part number? I've never seen anything like this before. I find it hard to believe the head could expand and fill the part number gaps so crisply - but.....its there I guess.

 

[Dragonlich1961]

The separator plate you have found is for a v8. you'll need a 6cyl unit. Reason is, the lower half(below engine is removable to access torque converter bolts.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, the separator plate looks like it will fit the high mount starter engines, but there is no cover for the lower half. Besides that, the automatic bell housing uses the smaller bolt pattern, and you may have to rearrange the dowel pins (I went from an automatic engine to a 3 speed in my Bronco). You don't need the oil slinger on the front of the crank with the modern seal. The piston looks to be .040 oversize, but it is stamped 40. I would measure the bore to check that. The valve train is not adjustable, so you must have hydraulic lifters. I would remove at least one rod and main cap and look at the bearings. If the crank was cut undersize, the bearing will be stamped the new size. How about a picture of the bores. Good luck

 

[drag-200stang]

The plate looks good to me, and if you scroll down, you can buy the lower part of the plate.
I believe what I see not what they tell me it is. They may be mistaken. I see four block bolt hole and two block dowel pin holes, where would they get five bolt holes.

 

[B RON CO]

Also, that Fel pro must come off the head. If a gasket scraper or razor blade won't remove it I would ask at the machine shop. I would CC the combustion chambers and if you have the later, large chamber you should have it milled anyway to @ 53 CC. Good luck

 

[bubba22349]

I found this one:

Bellhousing Separator Plate C4 Automatic Transmission 170/200 Mustang 1966-1970

What I don't understand though is that it says its made to work with 5 or 6 bolt bell housings - I have a bellhousing from a '65, and a 66 - both are the same, and both appear to have four mount bolt holes, and I can look at the picture of the plate above and it looks to have the same hole pattern as my bellhousing(s) so it should fit, except where are they getting 5 or 6 mounting bolts? There are four..... like Picard said....."there are four lights"......

As for the transferred gasket number.....how is it transferring in embossed steel? Is it just the head material expanding into the shape of the part number? I've never seen anything like this before. I find it hard to believe the head could expand and fill the part number gaps so crisply - but.....its there I guess.

Yes that is the correct Block Spacer Plate to fit with the C4 Trans, and as "B Ron Co" & drag-200stang stated above you will also need that Lower Inspection Cover Plate that is listed below it.

The transferred gasket number is not transferring into the Cast Iron Head or Block. This is just part of the the old Head Gasket and it can be scraped off or you can also use a sanding block to clean it off. Best of luck

 

[Treozen]

Thanks all - I went ahead and ordered the plate and its matching lower inspection plate - It looked right to me, so fingers crossed.

As for the numbers - yeah, if I'd spent more than 5 minutes and used more than my finger, I'd have realized it was hardened carbon. Still "purdy dang strange I'll tell ya".

You don't need the oil slinger on the front of the crank with the modern seal.

Hi B RON CO - When you say the oil slinger, are we talking about that "flying saucer" with the arrow on it, and if so, how to make sure I have the modern seal? For that matter, which seal do we mean - pan gasket to timing cover, timing cover to block or front seal for the crank / balancer? I ordered an engine seal and gasket kit from Summit, so I imagine whatever seal needs to be "the modern one" will simply be in the box? Should I use the slinger even if I don't need it? ...I also ordered a double roller timing chain - and I think I read it wasn't possible to use the slinger anyway due to the slightly wider double roller chain / sprocket.

 

[bubba22349]

Hi B RON CO - When you say the oil slinger, are we talking about that "flying saucer" with the arrow on it, and if so, how to make sure I have the modern seal? For that matter, which seal do we mean - pan gasket to timing cover, timing cover to block or front seal for the crank / balancer? I ordered an engine seal and gasket kit from Summit, so I imagine whatever seal needs to be "the modern one" will simply be in the box? Should I use the slinger even if I don't need it? ...I also ordered a double roller timing chain - and I think I read it wasn't possible to use the slinger anyway due to the slightly wider double roller chain / sprocket.

Hi Treozen, yes you are correct when you are using one of the Double Roller Timing Gear and Chain Set's the Oil slinger can no longer be used. The Oil Slinger can only be used with the stock standard Single Timing Gear and Chain Set's. Best of luck

 

[Treozen]

Hi Treozen, yes you are correct when you are using one of the Double Roller Timing Gear and Chain Set's the Oil slinger can no longer be used. The Oil Slinger can only be used with the stock standard Single Timing Gear and Chain Set's. Best of luck

Alright - thanks all - appreciated. Time to clean everything up and get ready for reassembly.