200ci Autolite 1100 bowl empty after several days

This applies only to 200ci
Hello all
I have a 68 Mustang with the 6-Cyl 200CID with an OEM Ford Autolite 1100 carburetor, all original. Just finished a complete restoration. I’m new to this engine and carb; all my previous Mustangs were V8 w/ 2BBL carbs.
The problem happens after the car sits for more than a few days. It takes a lot of cranking to finally get the fuel bowl full, then she starts right up. I’ve confirmed the bowl was empty by looking in the carb throat and hitting the accelerator…no fuel squirting. When I shot a syringe full of gas into the fuel bowl vent, she fired up immediately. The fuel pump is brand new, the carb was just rebuilt and the float set. She runs beautifully once it starts. I’ve had other Mustangs (again, V8 & 2BBL carb) that would sit for weeks and fire up immediately.
Is this a known issue with Autolite 1100s? Can the fuel bowl vent adjustment cause gas to evaporate quickly? Some online forums say a valve in the fuel pump may be allowing fuel to leak backwards?? I recently had the carb off the engine and the inside of intake did not seem wet from fuel leaking in that way.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
If you are sure it’s not leaking internally, I would say it’s normal. Carbs in the early 60’s did not have vents that closed when the engine is off, allowing gas to evaporate. I would suggest, if you’re not already, using ethanol free gas. You won’t have residue buildup when it does evaporate, it won’t absorb moisture which WILL cause corrosion.
I have multiple examples of how well ethanol free gas works to eliminate fuel system problems if you are interested
 
If you are sure it’s not leaking internally, I would say it’s normal. Carbs in the early 60’s did not have vents that closed when the engine is off, allowing gas to evaporate. I would suggest, if you’re not already, using ethanol free gas. You won’t have residue buildup when it does evaporate, it won’t absorb moisture which WILL cause corrosion.
I have multiple examples of how well ethanol free gas works to eliminate fuel system problems if you are interested
Hello Don
Thanx for the reply. I only use Non-Ethanol gas in the Mustang. I see that you have a 67 Mustang w/ the 200…do you experience this same issue?
 
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the gas evaporates more quickly on a six. 1) very high heat around the carb, especially after hot shut off. (Gas boils @ 155*F, the carb easily can get to that.) 2) the bowl is small, not a lot of gas to boil off.

A not too difficult solution is to add an inexpensive electric pump in the fuel line. Because fuel is still in the line even though the carb's dry, adding it in the rubber hose before or after the fuel pump works well. A simple toggle switch under dash. Prefiling the carb restores instant start-ups.

I have this set up on one car which goes carb-dry in 2 days, and all-electric pump system on the other two trucks. All inline6 carbureted.
The all-electric pumps are manually controlled with dash toggle switch, this allows prefilling as well as lowering the pressure to 0 before shut off in summer. (as a byproduct its also a theft deterrent.)
Using a phenolic carb spacer will keep the carb cooler, a benefit at all times, including longer lasting bowl fuel when off.
 
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Hello Don
Thanx for the reply. I only use Non-Ethanol gas in the Mustang. I see that you have a 67 Mustang w/ the 200…do you experience this same issue?
I have a newer style Webber 32/36, not as much of an issue. I had a 67 with old Holley 2300s, it had the same issue. Think of it as priming the oil at the same time😎. I found that you can crank for five seconds, then let the fuel run into the bowel, crank again and pump the throttle, fire happens quicker😎
 
Thanx for all the replies.
Dave
Hin Dave
My 64 falcon has the same issues.
Inline six with 1100 autolite rebuilt by pony carbs long ago.
When on vacation wit much use almost insta start every day..
When sitting in the garage and no frequent use. Lots of cranking before it starts.
 
I guess I am old school. I like pumping gas, not plugging it in. Electric pumps might be more efficient, even more durable. The problem with quality parts included might add to the necessity. Then there is the added relay and wiring, and the safety cut off, regulator. But in an old school car, you can’t beat the simplicity of a mechanical system. Even cranking, and the satisfaction knowing that in a couple of seconds it WILL rumble, all the while pumping on the pedal. It’s a routine all its own from days past. A far cry from from getting in our daily driver, and push a button- I don’t even have a key, the car sees my wife’s key and allows me to start it. Convienant? Yes! But it’s just not quite as satisfying.
 
I guess I am old school. I like pumping gas, not plugging it in. Electric pumps might be more efficient, even more durable. The problem with quality parts included might add to the necessity. Then there is the added relay and wiring, and the safety cut off, regulator. But in an old school car, you can’t beat the simplicity of a mechanical system. Even cranking, and the satisfaction knowing that in a couple of seconds it WILL rumble, all the while pumping on the pedal. It’s a routine all its own from days past. A far cry from from getting in our daily driver, and push a button- I don’t even have a key, the car sees my wife’s key and allows me to start it. Convienant? Yes! But it’s just not quite as satisfying.
Then I guess that you like the ol hand crank starter too.;)
On a more serious note. I had nothing but problems with the mechanical fuel pumps. I put a electric Stewart-Warner on the Mustang. I had a dodge A100 that I put a souped up 340 in with a four speed, it had a Carter super pump, it failed twice. Took off the electric off the Mustang and put it on the van, used it till I got a nice car. Put that same electric pump on my tig welder water cooler and used it for 40 years till the electric connections when bad.
 
I guess I am old school. I like pumping gas, not plugging it in. Electric pumps might be more efficient, even more durable. The problem with quality parts included might add to the necessity. Then there is the added relay and wiring, and the safety cut off, regulator. But in an old school car, you can’t beat the simplicity of a mechanical system.
This is where the hybrid system is the best of both worlds especially on vehicles only driven occasionally. Keep the mechanical system as is. Add a cheap click-clack pump in the fuel line near the mechanical pump. The electric in line pump on my Rambler is a $15 Amazon, it uses about 1 amp. No relay, just a ground-lead to the dash. After a long sit hit the toggle, wait a few seconds, pump the gas, fire up (instantly). Turn off the electric pump.
 
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