All Small Six Autolite 1100 part throttle acceleration/cruise miss

[Rheacox]

Yup, got some bushings from McMaster and installed them last night. Not a bad job and it really tightened up the throttle shaft. Still have to road test but it does seem to idle smoother now.

Also not sure why but the bowl gasket appears to have sealed itself... I'll mess with that down the road a bit.

 

[Rheacox]

Update time. Test drive with the new bushings was better but still had that same miss. Got home and plumbed my smoke machine into the manifold and found some smoke coming out around the SCV... turns out the gasket got a little egg shaped on install and created a small leak.

Fixed that and it was way better (perfect even).... until coming home last night the accelerator pump outlet ball got jammed closed and I lost my accelerator pump. Had to take the top off the carb and get it loose with a pick. Beginning to think this carb is cursed but we should be good now I think

 

[powerband]

Nice pic of throttle bushing install'

"...it was way better (perfect even).... until coming home last night the accelerator pump outlet ball got jammed closed and I lost my accelerator pump. Had to take the top off the carb and get it loose with a pick. Beginning to think this carb is cursed..."


'initially had a lot of trouble with the rescued '63, chased intermittent carb flooding and stalling. The Fuel tank had practically microscopic sediment getting past pump and OEM filter to quickly build up in carb. Having already replaced the carb needle&seat, adding inexpensive inline fuel filters before and after the pump can add confidence that even minor tank or line sediment doesn't add to carb problems.

 

[bubba22349]

I used to have my gas tanks on all my older cars that I was rebuilding to put back into service again cleaned by dipping them at the locale Radator shop. Than I would use the Aricraft Slushing compound to seal the inside of the tank it works really great. There are also budget DIY ways to clean a fuel tank on the cheap too. Sadly though many of those smaller old time radiator shops arn't around in many of the areas.

X2 extra fuel filters can help if the tank isn't to bad. Congrats on getting the Vacuum leaks fixed that's excellent news! If you still have a little bit of high speed miss than it could be that one or more of your spark plugs got fouled out back when the it was running extra rich with the vacuum leaks they may start cleaning themselves up again with some more use on a good long drive or you could put in a fresh set.

 

[chad]

thnx for keepin me informed, Rhe
Sounds like ur pretty much there.
Do I see a small smile from my house?
May B it's B I G & I'm just too far away?

 

[Rheacox]

About the tank... the previous owner did replace it probably around 2009/10 and then got sick and the car sat until I got it (in 2021) with a half tank of rotten E10 in it. In my head I was still thinking newish tank, how bad could it really be... First go around with the carb it looked like it was full of orange soda

Pulled the tank, cleaned out about 5lbs of rust, sludge and scale. Changed the filter, added extra in line filters and that seems to be getting me by until I can drop $300 on the correct 14gal tank and sender (this one is the cheaper 16 gallon and it almost hits the muffler). So yeah, I'm sure there's going to be some junk still getting into the carb but for now I'm just going to live with it. Besides, I think the perforated floor pans are going to take precedent

 

[chad]

"...perforated floor pans..."
free A/C

"...Aricraft Slushing compound to seal..."
went to p/u the Aircraft Paint remover - illegal now (different than 'slushing'?)

 

[bubba22349]

Yes totally different type of material. FIrst the fuel tank needs to be cleaned out good inside then you just slush it around to coat the inside of the fuel tank it top coats it to seal it on the inside surfaces. Then you poor out any excess and let it dry before you can put any gas back into the tank and put it back into service again. I learned about it while I was going to school in the late 1960's for my FAA Airframe and Powerplant Lic. Ratings. Here's is one brand you don't need much maybe a pint for a regular size fuel tank I think I used a quart for a larger 60 Gal rear fuel tank on my Transport Truck. Once you do it your good for a long time i had that 56 F350 for 39 years with no fuel tank issues after using the sealer. http://aeroparts.com.au/ocart/image/cache/data/pr1005-228x228.jpg

 

[chad]

yup, many of us do, even the morotcyc.

 

[Rheacox]

2.5 years later I’ll give an update. I splurged on a new 14 gallon tank. Also went through 2 mechanical fuel pumps that I guess couldn’t stand up to the ethanol gas… so now it’s swapped over to electric. The carb is very drivable but does have a stumble when blipped. Happens with the vac to the distributor hooked up or not. It’s definitely going lean since I can correct it by strategically shooting some carb cleaner down the throat at the same time as blipping the throttle. Could the float level be too low? I’ve bent the accelerator pump linkage to get the best pump shot I can but it’s still not quite there.

 

[TrickSix]

I’ve bent the accelerator pump linkage to get the best pump shot I can but it’s still not quite there.

Maybe you already did. Have you moved the little stop pin in the lever that gives a longer stroke?

 

[Rheacox]

Yup that's been done. It's not so much the amount of pump shot that's the issue but when it comes in. There is a very small delay between the throttle opening and the pump shot happening. I have the lever right up against the diaphragm so there should be no delay... I think.

 

[chad]

rebuild? Which carb IS it ?
Some of us rebild right out da box.
Gota 30K$ kit car (a glass chop top 38 cheb) in.
The builder left alota sfuff go, off, wrong, etc. We
tore apart the egelbrock4v for a stumble & found jammin on
the metal to rubber fuel line he nicked some rubber we found in
the needle’n seat. All beddah !