HOwdy All:
I'd reiterate what Addo just said and add that your engines ignition system is not a "bad design", it is cheaper design then the later, centrifugal advance distributors. The weakness of the Load-O-Matic/SCV design is that so many things can go bad, wrong and/or quit working.
Based on what you said initially about the throttle shaft seeming fine, my first place to look would be for a stuck/sticking needle valve in the float bowl. If the needle valve is sticking open raw gas will seep out at the 1st, easiest location. That is likely to be the throttle shaft- tight or loose.
It might also help if you gave us a little more info? What vehicle, trans, since last carb rebuild, etc....
My two cents is that the Pony carb option is a good, but expensive, choice in mostly stock applications, such as yours. Their improvements are noticeable in power, hot start-up and driveability. You should do a search and ask those who have gone that route. One of the upgrades they offer is to replace the 1.20" 1100 venturi with a 1101 venturi of 1.29", increasing cfm from 185 up to 215. The Pony carb will maintain your "Stock appearing" goal.
Personally, I like 1100s and have rebuilt and used a bunch. You might also check the classified forum for a good, rebuildable core. The rebushing and stripped inlet threads are minor, easy fixes. The stripped top screw holes may be an issue, depending.
It would be a simple and inexpensive test to check the float and needle valve for any hangups or stickys. Things like hanger alignment and gasket interferances are usually easily spotted and fixed with trimming and adjusting.
If I were in your shoes, I'd try that next.
Please forgive me if I'm not back soon. I'm south for the winter and don't always have access to the internet.
Adios, David
