Autolite 1101 wows and woes

C

cmm24601

Well-known member
So I did some reading on my autolite 1101 carb to adjust the idle. It was taking a very long time to warm up, running rich, and stalling often in the first 30 minutes of driving.

I set the mixture screw to "stock": lightly seated then two turns out. Runs smooth. Wow. I also tightened down my safety wire which is holding together a broken plastic piece of the linkage right at the choke valve. Much less wiggle room there.

Now to the woes... Major fuel leak at the fuel intake. The nut won't tighten and sadly, it looks like the intake port has stripped threads. This does, however explain why i've been getting such bad fuel economy and why the enging :oops: was often wet.

I temporarily solved the problem with some plumbers tape and a thinner washer, but i don't expect that to hold.

So...where do ya'll buy your carb parts? or entirely new carburetors?
 
ledslinger29":3irwu25u said:
Mikes Carburetor Parts. Or ebay.
Click to expand...
Our "prts 4 sale" forum
Daytona
Stove Bolt
if in the know bout what U want: flee-bay (buyer Bware).
Yet the 4th has been best 4 me…
I go to Mike's to understand better (exploded diagrams, prices, etc)
Matt at vintage inlines .com (our member)

Good Luck, keep talkin...
 
I had the same leak problem at the inlet on my carburetor. I ended up buying a brass pipe adapter at NAPA that has the same thread (I think 1/8" pipe?) as the fuel filter. I cleaned what was left of the carburetor threads real good with brake cleaner and mixed up some JB weld and coated the male threads of the adapter and screwed into the carburetor. After the epoxy set up it is just a matter of hooking your fuel filter/line back up.

I'd make sure your choke is adjusted and working properly for the other problem you mentioned.
 
Howdy cmm and all:

How did the plumbers tape fix work for you? Jmlj offered a good fix. If it's still leaking after the plumbers tape fix try jimlj66's fix. PS- don't over tighten!

On your other problem; how cold is it at your locale? How long is "A very long time"? Have you tried adjusting your choke setting? What is it's current setting? Do you drive for your warm-up or just let it idle? A drive warm-up happens a lot faster than an idle warm-up and takes a lot less gas.

Have you done a cold start while watching the choke open? To do it, dress warmly. Take the air cleaner off, do your pre-start procedure then start the engine. Now go out and watch for the choke to open. It should be on fast idle to begin. After three minutes you will have to rev the engine to trip the fast idle cam to a lower setting. In five to seven minutes the choke valve should be completely open. The whole process should take about 15 minutes. Now go inside and warm up, and assess what you just learned.

Do you still have the hot water plate under your carb? What temperature thermostat are you using?

Have you increased you initial spark advance setting?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Hi, X2 choke stove connections, make sure warm air flows through it. Thermostat may be stuck open, check for coolant flow on start up. Coolant should not flow into upper radiator for up to ten minutes. The upper hose should get hot. Does your temp gauge reach operating temp? Does choke snap closed when cold and fully open and stay open when warm? Good luck
 
Thanks for the help folks. I will use the JB Weld. Plumbers tape has already started leaking.

David, it's typically in the low 30s each morning. It will dip to the teens in January but that's about it. Car is in the garage with heaters running for the cat, so we're not talking extreme cold at all.

Here's the deal... I have no clue as to how this choke is supposed to work. My routine is crank with a small push on the accelerator to get it firing. Usually take about 2 to 3 repetitions to get it running without stalling. I let it run for 5 to 10 minutes. Sometimes tapping the gas to help it get going. Somedays that's enough of a warm up. Other days it stall at every stop sign between the garage and my office.

Is there room for improvement here?

As far as the choke settings... there are two spring screws on the choke linkage. One vertical, one horizontal. I haven't messed with the horizontal. I adjusted the vertical to where it is lightly touching the bracket above it. Noticeable improvement. I tightened it further, bad news. Stalled everytime I let off the gas.

I will check the choke as you indicated, David.

B RON CO I just installed a new thermostat and housing. It is a high temp thermostat than the original, but it hasn't had much of an impact on performance. Engine temp is below 150 during warm up. I'll check the hoses and radiator as you indicated. I've had some cooling issues at high temps or when stuck in traffic. Nothing too dangerous, just hotter than I'd like. And occaisonally the cap will release at shut off if I've been driving slow in the heat.
 
cmm24601":1qvql6aj said:
Thanks for the help folks. I will use the JB Weld. Plumbers tape has already started leaking.

David, it's typically in the low 30s each morning. It will dip to the teens in January but that's about it. Car is in the garage with heaters running for the cat, so we're not talking extreme cold at all.

Here's the deal... I have no clue as to how this choke is supposed to work. My routine is crank with a small push on the accelerator to get it firing. Usually take about 2 to 3 repetitions to get it running without stalling. I let it run for 5 to 10 minutes. Sometimes tapping the gas to help it get going. Somedays that's enough of a warm up. Other days it stall at every stop sign between the garage and my office.

Is there room for improvement here?

As far as the choke settings... there are two spring screws on the choke linkage. One vertical, one horizontal. I haven't messed with the horizontal. I adjusted the vertical to where it is lightly touching the bracket above it. Noticeable improvement. I tightened it further, bad news. Stalled everytime I let off the gas.

I will check the choke as you indicated, David.

B RON CO I just installed a new thermostat and housing. It is a high temp thermostat than the original, but it hasn't had much of an impact on performance. Engine temp is below 150 during warm up. I'll check the hoses and radiator as you indicated. I've had some cooling issues at high temps or when stuck in traffic. Nothing too dangerous, just hotter than I'd like. And occaisonally the cap will release at shut off if I've been driving slow in the heat.
Click to expand...

Yes there is room for quite a bit of improvement. Have you done the basic tune up settings yet? If not see below for the stock tune up settings and choke setting info. The normal operating temperature of these engines is a range from 190 to 210 degrees this gives the best in economy and performance.

Stock 1969 Mustang 250 Tune up specs in order

1. Set spark plug gap to .034 with a point type Distribitor
2. If you still have points in your distributor Set the dwell to 38 Or a .025 gap
3. Set timing to 6 BTDC for an Auto Trans. 6 BTDC for a Manuel trans.
4. Set choke linkage adjustment screw on the index mark (high point (>) and choke cover on 1 or 2 Rich from index Mark.
5. Check choke blade is in the proper closed position (about 1/16 to 1/8 inch from closed tight) start engine. Fast idle is set to 1200 RPM, next warm up engine when warm blimp the throttle so choke linkage moves off index mark to the notched part of cam (ie so it's not holding throttle linkage open). Remove air cleaner lid to check that choke is now fully open, if it's open replace air cleaner lid.
6. Use the tach / dwell to adjust idle mixture to highest rpm then turn mixture screw in 1/4 turn (lean). This is the lean best idle RPM.
7. Set the curb idle RPM to 550 or (600 with AC and AC off) with an Auto trans in drive with parking brake set. 700 RPM for a Manuel trans.
8. Repeat steps 6. & 7. To double check your mixture setting and reset your curb idle RPM to spec and your done.

Good luck :nod:
 
"...tightened down my safety wire which is holding together a broken plastic piece of the linkage right at the choke valve.
AND
Major fuel leak at the fuel intake. The nut won't tighten and sadly, it looks like the intake port has stripped threads…"
Like to see these fixed B4 ANY other operations at solution R begun…

(Wanna hear more on what's goin on wid dem) I think your Q:

"Is there room for improvement here?"

is a solid 1 (Yes!! things can get better, they should / must, that's no way 2 drive 2 work…) but U have to get it squared away 1st. These are very reliable, comfortable as daily drivers. Need to hear if this carb is salvagable...
 
Howdy cmm:

Are you feeling a little swamped by all the help you are getting? I hope not. Hang in there.

On start up procedure, you will set the choke by pushing the gas pedal all the way to the floor. That sets the choke by closing the choke valve and setting the engine idle speed on the highest ramp or fastest idle speed. As the coil spring inside the bakelite housing warms warms from the hot air that is being sucked up through the exhaust manifold the choke valve will begin to open. The choke valve is linked to the fast idle cam as part of the choke system. As the choke opens it is necessary to tap the gas pedal to allow the fast idle cam to release and step down to a lower rpm setting. That's #6 in Bubba's directions.

Where is the choke setting now? Look on top of the black, bakelite cover and the housing it is attached too. The bakelite coil spring housing will have a mark. The housing it is attached to will have several marks. On one end of the marks it will say 'Richer". On the other end "leaner". What mark is the on the black housing lined up with? Bubba suggest 1 or 2 rich for you temperature, as a place to start. But, where is the mark now?

I seem to recall that this is an automatic trans car. I think the specs for initial timing is 12 dbtc.

I hope this is getting more clear for you.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
"Are you feeling a little swamped by all the help you are getting? I hope not. Hang in there."
:twisted:
I'm still gettin up to speed and it's been years!

“…on the highest ramp or…”
“…linked to the fast idle cam…”
on the outside of my YF R lill 'bars' and 'plates' composing the linkage. One looks like a lill stair (three 'fingers' or steps). The 1st quick tromp to the floor of the gas, sets linkage onto a finger, lift the hood and take a look, u might have seen them already. There should B a tube running down to the exh. manifold frm the carb (hot air stove - brings up/hot air drifts up) for heat to the black 'bakelight' housing (inside, the coli/spring David mentions).

"A pic's worth a thousand…
(ck out the CI archive & Handbook, our search function above. We'd luv a pic or 2 frm U!).
 
Mike's carb is a great resource. I rebuilt my 1100 with their kit. I had to make a the weight that was missing from a pc of aluminum rod. But I knew what it should weigh and it's general size thanks to Mike. Carb top was warped. Had to heat it and flatten and so on. It's a poor design, it's not strong enough. If you want to keep the 1101, I'd give it a good, careful rebuild and check the throttle slop and sleeve the bore if need be, make sure the mating surface of the top casting is sound and flat. Be sure and grind any mushrooming/peening on the throttle rod @ the butterfly screws before you remove them or the rod from the body. Some 180-220 grit stuck to your table saw table, stone counter scrap or a glass table top for top to bottom mating surfaces wouldn't hurt if it's needed. Don't over tighten the screws around the lid. An overnight soak of all the bits, parts and pieces in a gallon of Berrymans goes a long way. That and nitrile gloves, a toothbrush, some guitar string/wire and water/soap works great if you don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner or the like.

Otherwise yes, get a different carb. Find a good 1101. If you have a small log head, anything other than a 1940 or the other Holley, 1904?, or small flange YF will not be a direct swap. But having the 1101 means you have a dual advance distributor and that opens your options way up. It will just take a bit of work. I recommend an RBS or the daytona universal. The RBS has a small butterfly compared to a YF and is lower profile. I don't have any direct experience with the Daytona carb, but there have been a number of members on the van forum who have swapped them in along with DSII ignitions and have sung high praise of the carb. First gen Econolines are all manual choke stock though. I know that's a problem for many, esp when the car came with an auto choke. I got rid of my manual choke... ;) I get it.
 
looks like U got the "M" head which is the best candidate for the direct mount 2v (autolite 2100?) for the 23 - 36 yr. run of these 'falcon' motors.
End of headaches.
That would make a truly grand Grande.

I could not C ur carb linkage & other details (a pic is even better than vid). I did C the bailing wire adaptation, don't recommend a JB Weld approach to the fuel inlet (Y make a fuel filter permanently attached to it's carb?) if that wuz yer implication...
Keep talkin!
Thanks for the vids.
 
Since you have a 250, a Carter RBS is a direct replacement and will give you a whopping 5 more cfm's ;) @ 215 cfm. It should bolt on, linkage looks to be the exact same cable throttle linkage bracket from the '70 model year w/the RBS stock. Outside of going to a 2v that is your best option, imo. A YF is taller, may not fit, will likely require linkage mods and is only another 5 cfm, if you pick the right one.

Rock auto lists both the 1101 and the RBS as in stock under '69 and '70 4.1 Mustang, the 1101 is $134 after you return your core, $199 otherwise. The RBS is $179 w/o a core $119 with a core return.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 36&jsn=436

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 56&jsn=517
 
cmm24601":1lwhiw1k said:
https://flic.kr/p/Qsgv8v
https://flic.kr/p/Pp3C24
https://flic.kr/p/Qpw8mJ
https://flic.kr/p/PmjZU9

I'm hoping these pics will go through. Finally got back to working on the choke. Still a bit lost. When the engine is cold, the spring should snap the plate shut right? So when it's cold the tension should be pushing the plate flat and closed.
Click to expand...

Basically yes when engine is cold and you then step on the throdle pedal once before cranking the engine over this should reset the choke blade to the closed position and put the choke linkage on the fast idel position. I also edited your picture links in the above post. Good luck :nod:
 
Howdy cmm and all:

Cmm- what is your typical cold start routine? Do you have to pump the gas to prime the engine for an initial cold start? How many times?

If you do have to pump the gas, at least once put the pedal to the floor.

We've talked about cold start routine previously. Have you tried it yet? How did it work?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Start routine = press pedal all the way to the floor and release. Crank engine, tap gas to get it to ignite. Sometimes repeat this up to 5 times. Once it's running without stalling, I occasionally rev the engine to help it warm up.

After reading these very helpful posts and getting in their to take a look at things, I'm confident that the choke is not set correctly. I'm working on getting it correctly set up.
So... the tension of the spring should snap the blade closed unless the engine is warmed up, right? What piece holds it open once warmed up?
 
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