Autolite Holley 1940?

[phoenix02]

Hello all,

I just got a 1940 to replace the 1100 on the Falcon temporarily to get her running for a few months until I can get the 1100 rebuilt by pony or something better. I picked it up on e-bay for $30, advertised as a carb off a '67 Mustang Automatic.

I got it in and It says Autolite on it. The other 1940s I've seen, which admittedly aren't too many, say Holley. The only thing that says Holley on this is the Nitophyl float. Other than that, the markings on the bowl say
DOPF-9510K
4529 1JA

Can anyone give me any info on this carb? I'm assuming it's the smaller venturi, regular old 1940 with a SCV and all. Also, I ordered a rebuild kit from Autozone- the only one NAPA had was for a Holley 740 and it didn't have the SCV. Any one here have any bad luck with GP Sorensen rebuild kits? I was hoping to get a Holley branded one, but I can't find it anywhere.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[addo]

I would have thought that the "D0" prefix made it a 1970 carb - so it's unlikely to have an SCV. Of course, it's easy to swap tags...

 

[Mercury Mike]

Mike, post some pictures of it for me.

 

[LaGrasta]

Even though it says Motorcraft, it's really a Holley as they made them for Ford as a aftermarket replacement, non-OEM IIRC. GP Sorenson is decent. I used one of theirs for my 1946 holley with no problems.

 

[phoenix02]

I have it torn down and in the chem bath right now- it was filthy. Actually, when I pulled the base plate off, there was- yet another- spider carcass in one of the air passageways. It looked a little too fresh, so I blew on it- and it moved. I felt bad killing it with my pliers after it flew all the way to Cali from Michigan. Red, furry, scary looking guy though, so I didn't want to release it into the ecosystem. Just what we need in the desert- another predator.

Anyway, I'll get some pics up when it's out of the bath. The listing says it's off a '67, and it DOES have the SCV, unless there's something else that looks just like an SCV that's attached to a later 1940. The codes are stamped directly on the fuel bowl, so there are no tags to have been switched.

I don't want to bend my Choke tube, as I will be putting on a 1100 when time and money permit. Any other ideas? I was thinking about going to NAPA and getting some flared brake line and a fitting to the choke and bending it. Does anyone make a prebend line, or is making my own the way to go?

Actually, I forgot, it's an e-bay auction, so you can check out the pics on the auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &rd=1&rd=1

The floats are brown on the bottom, about 1/4" up- should I replace? If I do, would you suggest nitrophyl or brass?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[phoenix02]

Okay, I have some problems-

The throttle return spring, plastic sleeve that was under it, and the rubber gasket where the accelerator arm goes into the float bowl, are all broken. I can live without the plastic piece and the rubber grommet, but I kinda have no carb without the return spring. Any ideas where I could get one?

Other than that, I think everything should be okay to put back together.

The PCV spacer I got with the carb (the listing says EGR, but I'm assuming PCV as my motor doesn't have EGR) Doesn't have the heater hose pass through. Is this a problem? I would just use the one that's on the engine, but the PO lost one of the carb mounting studs and repaced it with a bolt which of course had the wrong thread pitch. Now the threads are all screwed up and the bolt is too long- I remedied that on the 1100 by using two gaskets. I'd like to use the new unit, as I think it'd be better, but I'm concerned about the lack of coolant passthrough.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[ludwig]

spider carcass in one of the air passageways. It looked a little too fresh, so I blew on it- and it moved. I felt bad killing it with my pliers after it flew all the way to Cali from Michigan. Red, furry, scary looking guy

That was an arachnia yooperkaliensis. I'm telling the EPA or whoever.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Phoenix, give me a call later today.

 

[wallaka]

The coolant passthrough isn't an issue except in colder climates. Just get one of those double-barbed connectors and connect the two lines together. Or, if you don't need the heater then screw a plug into the waterpump hole.

 

[phoenix02]

Ah crap, now I'm gonna have some government agency after me. Hey Ludwig, if you think killing one spider would matter all that much, what about calling on the seller for removing it from it's habitat?

Okay, so, as some of you may have guessed by looking at the e-bay pics, I, genius that I am, didn't notice that there's no dashpot on the carb. It says it came off an Auto, so shouldn't it have one? I'm not to big on the carb thing, so any help would be appreciated. If I do need one for it to function on my car, can I add it, or am I better off rebuilding this guy, putting it back up on e-bay and using the cash to try to get one with a dashpot on it? I don't want to send it back to the seller, as I have already taken it all apart and cleaned everything.

-Michael

 

[phoenix02]

I was just thinking, the Holley's much more complicated than the Autolite, but has anyone noticed better torque at all with the 1940 over the 1100? I ask because I was thinking about the designs, and the 1940 has the venture running through the fuel bowl, so I would think that the fuel in the bown would cool the venturi slightly, thus cooling the incoming air and perhaps netting a pound or two of torque. Or at least have a smaller occurance of pinging? Just an idle thought.

-Michael

 

[Mercury Mike]

The holley 1940 has no anti-stall dashpot. It's not like the 1100. It's an easier carb, through and through in my opinion. Well... I've had less problems with it. Make sure you replace the jets, and the rubber on the accelerator pump. ALSO: The spring for the accel pump isn't symetrical, one side has a bigger diameter at the end than the other. The larger diameter end of the spring goes towards the carb, and sits in the groove there, and the small side goes towards the plunger. If you reverse it, the car will feel like it did with that 1100 you had on there. This should really pick up that 200 though. I will try to get out there sometime. There's a show on saturday that you should go to, and we can mess around with it a little bit. =) Look in the events section.

 

[phoenix02]

Oh, okay- I was worried, as the rebuild kit diagram has one on there.

Anyway, I made a new return spring. It's a rotary tension spring that is on the cross bar for the throttle plate, not a standard external return spring, for those of you that don't know what I'm talking about. I got a tight wound lateral tension spring and used some pliers, a jewelers screw driver, prayers, blood and sacrifices to the spider I killed to cut it down and bend it to fab a rotary tension spring. The new one is a thicher gauge wire- I went from about 16 to 14- so I couldn't put the plastic sleeve back under it, as it needed that extra space to contract. I preloaded the spring about 1/16", so it holds the butterfly closed well. As it is a thicker gauge wire, there's more torsional rigidity in it, so after about half throttle, the spring is slightly harder to compress than the stock one, but it snaps back very well.

Now that I have that, I'm gonna work on getting her back together so I can pop her on the Falcon and fire it up tomorrow! (Not big on swapping carbs in 30 degree weather, unless I have to)

Thanks everyone!

 

[phoenix02]

Mike,

I'd love to go, but I can't afford the gas out to Irwindale this weekend. You go and have two times the fun for me, okay? Hopefully next year I'll have the cash and the Falcon in better shape and I can fly the falcon while you ride your pony down the drag strip. That'd be cool. Okay, riding your pony sounds kinda gay, so I'll change that to galloping upon your steed, or something. Flying a Falcon though, that's good visualization.

I digress... Okay, the spring under the diaphragm isn't there- can I pull the one off the dashpot on the Autolite and put it in? Also, if you can't come out any time soon, can I paypal you a few bucks and have you mail me out one of those throttle linkage pieces I'm missing? You remember, the part that's a coat hanger right now?

Also, the PCV base that came with the new carb is rhomboidal and I don't have any gasket for it- can I use some black RTV, or do I need to find the gasket?

Give me a call or PM me your number- I lost it.

-Michael

 

[Mercury Mike]

Ohhhh! The adjustable throttle rod!!!! *remembers now* Yeah I'll see if I can find one. There was no spring in the 1940? It's not the same spring as the 1100's spring anywhere. I will look for parts and see what I can find for you. What sucks is that these rebuild kits don't have some very necessary parts sometimes.

 

[ludwig]

What sucks is that these rebuild kits don't have some very necessary parts sometimes.

(*ahem* Why I said to keep the old carb instead of giving it up for the core.)

 

[Mercury Mike]

I know ludwig. =) He didn't have a core to give up in this case, unless he gave up his 1100, in which case we should all jump him. I found the throttle linkage rod Mike, I'll pm you so you can paypal me.

 

[james singleton]

Phoenix, Here is some info from a post that I copied back a couple of months ago; "The 1940 was NEVER used on a production car but was a over the counter replacement for the Autolite 1100 and 1101 starting in 1970. Ford never made any of these to fit a 65-69 mustang, so any installed on a mustang would probably have been boughten over the counter after 1970 as a replacement for the oringinal 1100/1101 Autolite. The number for the 1940 was most often DOPF-K (although there were about 15 or so differing engineering number and designs). The Motorcraft Kit that you will be needing is still readily availabe and is part number CT-233B." This info came off of a Ford Carburetor Forum (Sept. 3, 2005). Hopefully this helps. Jim

 

[phoenix02]

The kit I got also didn't come with an SCV. The one that was on it is filthy and I don't know it's operating condition. The SCV I got in the rebuild kit for the 1100 os slightly shorter than the one I pulled off the 1940- there's about 4 more threads on the 1940, as well as the brass piece sticking out further. Can I use the 1100 one, or is there any way to test and see if the one that came on the 1940 is still functional? I've tried NAPA, Autozone, Kragen and Pep Boys and none of the kits came with one and nobody can order one. ANy ideas?

-Michael

 

[Mercury Mike]

How often do those things fail? I have gotten one in every kit I have ever gotten. Maybe try to buy a kit for a 1965 mustang? I do not know why you're having such a hard time with this stuff, I feel bad for ya! I can't find a spare SCV anywhere. I don't have that spare throttle spring either. You know where the spring is supposed to go right? There should have been one in there. The only one I have is in the 1940 that's actually on my car. I have seen cars function without them, but... not that great. The spring is a very particular spring, with a large end and a small end. Large end towards the top of the carb, small end towards rubber plunger on accelerator. I will try to get that throttle rod in the mail for ya. =)