Would you mind providing a spec sheet of the work and components on the engine? I would like to reference what you did on my 223.
Also, are you going to take it further by converting over to EFI or a twin-turbo setup?
LOL well first of all twin turbo would probably launch the crank right out of the oil pan in several peices.
My build is as follows:
-Bored .060" over to 231ci
-KB aluminum hyper pistons with hastings rings
-Rods shot peened, smoothed, lightened and matched.
-crank turned (only needed. 010")
-ARP hardened steel main studs/nuts as well as custom sized ones for the rods.
-head cut for hardened seats, 1.91" intake and 1.68" exhaust valves...Manley brand stainless swirl undercut SBC, length shortened to fit.
-351w springs/retainers, positive seals.
-head set up for bronze valve guides.
-ports cleaned up, bowls blended, 3 angle valve job.
-head decked enough to bring chambers to around 61cc each (it was a lot, almost .065" iirc, you'll have to do your own measuring.)
-block decked enough to pop the pistons .005" positive deck (again a lot, around .065" total maybe?)
Fel pro head gasket....all of the head and block machine work was calculated to give me .035" quench area with a .040" crush thickness head gasket.
-I had Davis Unified make me a distributor for a ford 300 I6 and I put a bored out and drilled 223 timing gear on the end. I made an oil pump drive shaft from a 5/16" Allen wrench cut down and a **important: 1964 ONLY** melling *HIGH VOLUME, NOT HIGH PRESSURE* 5/16" drive oil pump.
Spark plugs gapped to .050" with the fire breathing DUI.
-clifford 2x4 intake with their 2bbl weber adaptors...trimmed down to fit under my hood.
-2x Weber 38/38 dgas 2bbl synchronous carbs, jet kit necessary to tune them as the stock jets and IACs were too small.
-clifford split semi-shorty headers for passenger car.
-head bolts changed to ARP, I arrived somewhere around 10-10.5:1 compression. I would go with studs vs bolts due to the length of the block and lack of bolts.
I run 34° total timing on 93 octane, vacuum advance manifold referenced and monitored by dual Bosch wide band 02s and an innovative tech dual AFR meter.
-Schneider re-ground my stock cam to 264F specs, 264° advertised single pattern @ 108° LSA. They take it off the base circle....but because of the large amount of head/block surface material removed; the push rods didn't need to be modified. I run .015" lash hot.
-Rollmaster double roller iwis billit timing chain/gear set, advanced 8°.
I have my redline set at 5500rpm on my tach, but she'll easily spin to 6k . With the timing set straight up she goes to 6k before nosing over, with the 8° advance she has better low end torque and noses over at 5k.
-GM 3 wire alternator conversion, bypassing external mechanical regulator.
-195° thermostat....she behaves like a good girl and never overheats even on 95° days. Oil pressure stays at 50lbs fast idle to redline, 25lbs low idle to 800rpm when hot (above 800 she shoots to 40-50psi.)
Drivability is great, idle @600rpm is far from radical, mid range power and torque feels like a sports car, highway running at 65-70mph turns me 22-25mpg with 3:55 gears with the stock 3 speed. It's been able to take the 3700lb 300 to over 100mph riding on the 5500rpm redline, and calm down and drive home without complaining. Engine runs out of carbs/cam at 6k rpm and coughs for more air/fuel, but with the tiny cubic inches a more radical cam that could support higher rpm seriously sacrifices low end torque and daily Drivability. Oh also you gotta remember at this point that the old grandma has 4 main bearings and was designed in 1952....I choose to be a little kinder to her than you might be able to do with say a 60s chrysler 225.
On my recent tear down inspection, I did notice the crank timing gear had galled itself to the crank and I can only surmise that it's because of the evil harmonic torsional oscillation that every inline six developes around that 6k rpm mark. My damper was fine, but like all guys that run sixes say...stay below or above 6,000rpm!
Hope this information helps.
