best place for a 200 rebuild kit

[Anonymous]

looking for a gasket kit I guess to rebuild the ol 200 an what else you think I should add or do on the cheap since money is tight on this one.

I would want to put about 500 in the engine for now and do most the work myself.

Thanks and later.

 

[MercuryMarc]

I rebuilt my engine 250 on a budget using parts from Rock Auto (which I found to be the least expensive) and loaner tools from Autozone.

My major problem was poor compression and oil consumption that I presumed was bad rings.

I bought an engine lift (on sale for under $200 with load leveler) because I figured it was cheaper than renting over and over.

Other purchases:
Complete Gasket set
Ring Set
Timing set (2 gears and chain) since mine was very loose on inspection
Suction Cup Valve Stem Lapping Tool and Lapping Compound
New spark plugs, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter,rad hoses, plug wires, vacuum lines
Bolt extractors from local hardward store
Piston calipers and micrometer

I "treated" myself to stainless steel bolts (available online as a set)

I decided not to mess with the bearings since they looked OK to me

I wanted to keep the cost down since I was afraid I'd have to by a long block when I was done if I really messed up.....

But with the help of this great online group here, I removed, rebuilt, and reassembled the motor and it runs great! No more oil loss!

It could have been a little less expensive if I borrowed the engine lift and did not need a timing set.

Good luck!

 

[addo]

How much downtime do you have available? How much dry clean undercover space? What tools and facilities? Are you far from town?

If you're "starting from scratch" then factor in costs of degreaser. Better to have a pressure washer but not totally needed. A means to clean internal parts in solvent and dry them thoroughly.

An engine stand is a must-have but can usually be onsold afterwards at 50% cost or better.

With the shortblock, I suggest Plastigaging all clearances first and sizing the bores. That will tell where you're going. BTW, although dear to buy, Mike's timing set can be re-chained after several years hard living. You don't have to buy the whole deal all over.

Regrinds on a cam, and linishing lifters are cheap old-school procedures that save money and give excellent results. They also remove the risk of getting inferior new parts (such as the problematic distributor drive helixes on aftermarket cams).

Meticulous cleanness inside the motor and its parts can be a hard slog - but very worthwhile.

Regards, Adam.

 

[mustang6]

Last year I priced out doing a basic 200 rebuild doing everything I could myself to keep costs down and I figured it would cost about $800 - $1000. I even bought a rebuild kit through NAPA and prepared to take the block and head to my local machine shop to get started. Then I looked on ebay and found new engine parts much cheaper than my NAPA kit (which I ended up taking back for a full refund). I bought other people's unused new parts- pistons, rings, bearings, cam, lifters, gaskets, oil pump, timing chain, valves, seals- all new for less than $150 total. It took about 2 to 3 months to find all the right parts in the right sizes, but I eventually got everything I needed. I only ended up with about $400 into the motor when it was done and I ended up with a few more new parts (cam, oil pump) as opposed to reconditioned than I'd first planned. It fired right up when installed, I broke it in, and it's been working perfectly to this day.

 

[Anonymous]

How much downtime do you have available? How much dry clean undercover space? What tools and facilities? Are you far from town?

Better to have a pressure washer but not totally needed. A means to clean internal parts in solvent and dry them thoroughly.

An engine stand is a must-have but can usually be onsold afterwards at 50% cost or better. quote]

I have lots of downtime am in the bodywork phase still, I have a good size shed to put the motor in while I work on it with concrete floors and its about 15x12. I can borrow most basic tools for engine work as far as mics and what not but may have to borrow specialty from auto store.

I have a pressure washer 3000 PSI, we have a solvent tank at work as long as I can bring the parts in in a lunchbox, I already have an engine stand.

So where do you suggest I go for the parts and what parts do I absolutely have to buy? Links? I would like to go the 2barrel route eventually as well as header and electronic ignition(right away)


Thanks alot guys

Thanks again

 

[80Stang]

I still valuate Northernautoparts for a good place to buy total rebuild kits for the 200. They list the whole set at around $330, and you can alter the package (change the gears to Comp Cams, change the pistons to something else, change the camshaft and so on).

$500 won't be enough if you rebuild it totally. $170 left from buying the master kit will not be enough for all machining required to do it good.

 

[Anonymous]

I still valuate Northernautoparts for a good place to buy total rebuild kits for the 200. They list the whole set at around $330, and you can alter the package (change the gears to Comp Cams, change the pistons to something else, change the camshaft and so on).

$500 won't be enough if you rebuild it totally. $170 left from buying the master kit will not be enough for all machining required to do it good.

Wouldnt I want to try and find a bigger head eventually anyways? I think that is what I read on here.What head should I try and find? Or for that matter what type of cars should I look for in the junkyard with stuff in it I could use?

 

[Anonymous]

bttt

 

[addo]

Lots has been written and proposed about the various heads. They all have different merits The easiest fix for you is possibly a rebuilt head off a '77-up six. Just CC the chambers and calculate your compression ratio. Then cut the head face as needed.

Generally, though - heads wear slowly. You may well find one that just can get away with a quick cut, and use some grinding paste on the valves. Don't forget the side of your head where the exhaust bolts up, it can leak gases when an exhaust gasket is blown for a long time. This eats away the metal badly and needs surface machining to fix.