Block Exhaust ???

[Anonymous]

Took the ute xe for another test drive, so I gave it abit of stick was real impress then all of a sudden it was like the motor shut down wiped the smile of my face real quick lol, it wouldnt hardly crank, tow it back home, there I took of the rocker cover off and pull the plugs out turn it over manualy all the rockers and pushrods look ok, so turn it by battery did a compression test all fine, put it all back turn the key and did the same like it really strugle to crank, then I just happen to pull all the spark plug leads off and with them off it cranks normal just as if it was ready to start but as soon as I put the leads back on hard to crank, it still has the old muffler on which had saltwater in it ( this was my next job to do but got impatient) is it possible that a baffle has block the airway or is it ????

Thanks Joip

 

[Anonymous]

Possible, but that would be one hell of a blockage, and that means that all of a sudden a big chunk of material would have had to have disloged. Otherwise it would have been a bit more gradual.

The other thing is, it may be electrical. The modulators on those XE dizzies are a bit dickey, and tend to give pretty quickly. Warning signs are usually when the car starts to miss under load, or give a bit of starting trouble. You may want to check it out, but at about $85 for a new modulator (which you cannot return), you may want to not look....lol.

I can only sit here an guess. With that muffler, you may just want to remove it, and see what happens. I just wish the falcons didn't have that bend in the pipe work, then you could jam a broom handel up there....lol.

Well good luck, kind of an odd problem, not the regular "My car wont start" post.

Cheers,
Dylan

 

[addo]

The good old blown module. This is easy to check. If there's no healthy spark when cranking; just a weak pop when the ignition switches on, it's history. I paid $75 for the last one. All are interchangeable to my knowledge - if you can get a GM one for less, go for it! A mate ran one using a Honda 4 cylinder module. Worked fine.

When you install the new one, place a good splodge of "Unick" silicone grease (electronics hobby shops have it) under it, where it contacts the mount surface. This will help it stay cool and live longer.

As Dylan says, try running it with the offending muffler off. But a build up of pressure generally gives the feeling of a gutless motor, not one that won't start. Shoot some water up the pipe with a hose (car stopped and motor cold). If it comes shooting back out upon starting, blockage isn't too bad.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Joip,
You may be lucky enough to have two different problems.
When your car lost power on the road. Was the window down?
Yes a silly question but blocked mufflers give of a loud FFFFTTTT,
type of noise. Like releasing a high pressure gas.
This is fairly common.
If it looses power again, try switching it off and give the muffler a kick.
Not a shake coz it will be hot!
If it sounds like a large loose piece in it, bin it and have it replaced.
There can be small particles that rattle and give no trouble but spot welds can fail and loose plates in the gas stream can block off the exit and slow down the engine.
The cranking problem can/I believe be a separate issue.
How old is the distributor.
A sticky advance can stick at full advance and give a noisy/slow crank.
But with a klunk noise.
Try the muffler first and see what happens.
Noel.
Covered in carbon.
Cough,cough,cough!

 

[xctasy]

Ahhh, you mean a six with a Big Block exhast? B-a-a-a-a-a-d :x


(No sheeps jokes, thanks in advance)

 

[Anonymous]

Ok what I did was 1st up I couldnt get the muffler off so i cut the pipe , (Ive got extractors I want to put on then get a new system) with the muffler out the way I still had the same problem, as you all said have a look at the dizzy ( Iam not sure how old it is I got it from the wreckers out of an xd, the one I had has alot of slop in it ) I tdc it and could see that the rotor was pass #1 so I pull the dizzy out and put the other one in, it fired straight up, pretty loud as well lol, so I rejoin the pipe with a few oxy welds the exhaust seem to flow ok, warm it up and time it, I would never have thought it was the dizzy, is it best to fix the dizzy that came out or get another one, thanks a heap guys
Is there any difference between a manual and a auto dizzy ???

Thanks Joip

 

[Anonymous]

is it best to fix the dizzy that came out or get another one

It depends if you think you can fix it or not. When i was pricing up recond ones for an XF carb, they were all comming up at about and over $300. Wound up getting one from a wrecker for $50 (and it was an XE dizzy.....ruled out that damn anoying computer).

My thinking is that if you can get one that works, and won't be a problem for a long time, for a price you don't ming paying, then go for it. IMO paying $50 for a good second hand one, is better than wasting a day stuffing around with a buggered one.

Is there any difference between a manual and a auto dizzy

As far as I know, there is not. I know the XF ones are all the same, as the spark is controled by the computer (which differers between manual and auto), but I think the XE ones are also all standard as they are modulated.

General rule of thumb is that parts from an auto will work with a manual, but not the other way around.

Cheers,
Dylan

 

[Anonymous]

ohh $300 my money tree just died lol, I got a pretty good wrecker out my way still got my docket so I can exchange it for another and see how it goes, thanks for the help all

Excute was that b-a-a-a-a or b-a-a-a-a-d.......lol

Joip

 

[addo]

You'd be mad to pay $300 for an XE dizzy rebuilt. I can do it in 4 hours, and I'm a fussy pr*ck. Sure, maybe not a task for everyone, but $150 is closer to the mark. And I thought there was less inside the XF ones!

Joip, a healthy dizzy doesn't have more than about ¾mm slop (30 thou) when you push/pull the drive gear. It needs a little only. When you grab this gear and hang on to it, you should be able to turn the rotor button slightly clockwise against spring pressure. This is a sign your mech advance is working.

Hope this helps.

Adam.

 

[xctasy]

B-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A

25 million sheep can't be wrong!

 

[Anonymous]

slightly unrelated question... but what way turning the distributor advances timing ?
just wondering, since I was mucking around with a XE paddock basher and my friend wanted to advance the ignition for more power hehe. well, we stuffed around with it and turning it anti clockwise made it idle a bit quicker? so we figured it was advanced!
seemed to go a bit better, or it was our imagination

 

[addo]

Yep, you advanced it.

 

[Anonymous]

not a good idea I take it ?
it wasnt pinging or anything... (not that it would have mattered anyway, the cars so rusty only one person in the front because no front passenger floor .. )
still starts ok...
how much of a difference in power would a few more degrees base timing make ?

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Addo yes it helps alot at least I know what to look for, I when to the wreckers today to exchange but there were non there most have been taken, Ill try later in the week

Joip