Blown Headgasket? *video*

jamyers":2679a5p3 said:
350kmileford":2679a5p3 said:
I ordered a gasket last night, gonna replace it today. Do I really need to have the block machined? I was just gonna swap gaskets w/ engine in-car.
Very unusual for the block to get out of whack, but you'll really really want to have the head checked for warping.

I agree with jamyers that it's worth getting checked, and I'd especially want to take it to a machine shop and at least have it surfaced (shouldn't be more than $30.00. They can check it when they surface it. Cast is much less likely to warp than aluminum head, but you could also check this out yourself with a 'good' four foot level.

For the block surface, if you're not finding any bad scars, then I've used this mounted on a drill or pneumatic rotary, works well, great for cleaning gasket surfaces.

http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=1428554

I'm sure they're cheaper elsewhere/autozone, and well worth the money and last a long time versus the scotchbrite style.
 
I don't have the time, money or the means to take the block or head to a shop for machining. I also have another block that is awaiting money. It, and a T5, will be going in eventually. That will be my 'main' engine, so I don't want to put any extra into this one.
I cleaned all the old gasket and apparent rtv with a razorblade (don't get me started) and that is all. Got everything apart and back together in about 6 hours. The only casualty was the carburetor choke tube:
http://i35.tinypic.com/2itg229.jpg

But it was just as I thought, coolant in #6:
http://i33.tinypic.com/n4k2ab.jpg

The bad gasket:
http://i38.tinypic.com/rk1rhy.jpg
http://i38.tinypic.com/24y1bwy.jpg
http://i33.tinypic.com/mlmw00.jpg

The milky valve cover:
http://i33.tinypic.com/21ajz7p.jpg

An interesting bit was the difference between cylinders 2&3 and 4&5. Note the light vs. dark color:
http://i35.tinypic.com/fbcqjm.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/6dquti.jpg

Does anyone know what the torque specs for the rocker arms is?
 
Problem is, just about every time a head gasket goes in a stock engine it's due to the head moving around because of too much heat, which is why you can just about guarantee that the head is warped at least a little bit.

Not trying to bash you, I understand the low/no-budget approach. But something blew that first head gasket, and since you didn't check the head for warping, I'd be really nice to it for awhile:
* Retorque those head bolts (one at a time, back each one off 1/8-1/4 turn, then retighten to spec) after one or two heat cycles.
* Don't load it hard when it's cold,
* Make sure it heats up and cools down gradually,
* Make sure it doesn't even start to overheat,
* Retorque those head bolts again after 10-15 heat cycles.

Whatever you do, don't go out and run it hard while cold, then do something silly like flush the cooling system with cold water while it's still warm (and don't ask me how I know that's a bad idea...)
:lol:
 
Judging from the pics it doesn't look that bad of a blowout, I know that doesn't mean anything but compared to when my 2.0 sunbird blew the head gasket, half the damn gasket was gone out the side of the head :twisted:
 
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