Break-In Oil

[66200i6]

I will be starting my new build within the next couple of weeks. I had heard rumor that the new oils no longer include an additive (sulfur?) that provides enough lubricant to keep the cam from being damaged during the break in. I was told to use an oil design for diesels that still contain this additive.

Has anyone experienced this with a new motor and damaged cam after break in or can reference articles discussing the absence of this additive?

Thanks, Ric.

 

[StrangeRanger]

We've discussed this at length recently
Search this site for a thread containing "ZDDP."

 

[80broncoman]

Crane Cams has a breakin lube additive and others have somthing like it too.

 

[66200i6]

Wow, thanks! Great info. I had completed a search on Oils but wasn't having any luck.

Ric.

 

[XPC66]

Whenever I rebuild an engine I always use moly grease on the lobes, pour oil conditioner all over the valve train and use a mineral oil in the sump. I start the engine, make sure it's not flooding, then drive it like a thief up and down hills and freeway for 100km. Check valve lash while still hot, let cool, check head tension, change oil and filter, then drive as if everything is broken in.

Never had scuffed lobes, premature ring wear, or bigend failure. The lobes work harden quite nicely.

 

[fb71]

Whenever I rebuild an engine I always use moly grease on the lobes, pour oil conditioner all over the valve train and use a mineral oil in the sump. I start the engine, make sure it's not flooding, then drive it like a thief up and down hills and freeway for 100km. Check valve lash while still hot, let cool, check head tension, change oil and filter, then drive as if everything is broken in.

Never had scuffed lobes, premature ring wear, or bigend failure. The lobes work harden quite nicely.

bingo. Exactly the way I was taught to build and break-in an engine. Incidentally, that wisdom came from a rather successful local dirt-track racer/builder/machinist (1950s-1980s, Jim Bunning, JB's Auto Machine Shop)

 

[wsa111]

Drive it like you stole it.

Make sure you have the proper anti-scuffing additives on the camshaft lobes & lifters & after several hundred miles go to rotella 15w-40 for flat lifter camshafts, cause this contains the anti-scuff zinc additives to prevent wear.

 

[66200i6]

All the info I was pointed to earlier spoke of the need to run the high Zinc and Sulfur content additives until the cam has gone though the brake in period. Some suggest that this type of lube be used exclusively for any flat tappet cam engine.

The Rotella seems to be the favorite and you are supposed to be able to find it almost anywhere.

Thanks for all the info. I will be picking it up the engine this morning and delivering to be installed. Who knows I may be driving it soon. It's only been nearly a year since I dropped it off.

Thanks again, Ric.