Broken exhaust manifold bolt

[Anonymous]

Just broke off an exhaust manifold bolt while attempting to change my manifold gasket. The bolts did not break on my 35 year old 170, but of course they broke on my recently rebuilt 200 :roll: :roll:

Since this is my daily driver I stopped the work as I'm worried more may break off (the manifold is still on but the leak is worse now) What are my options here- drilling out the old bolt, pulling the head, etc? it's across from the shock tower so I'm afraid I may not be able to get a drill in there. Thanks,

Thor

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

Since its in a akward location if you cant get to it you will need to pull the head and have it extracted. There are several stuck bolt extractors on the market these days. I would also consider heating with a propane torch and soaking it for several days with super liquid wrench before trying to extract it.

Worst case scenario a shop can drill out the bolt hole and chase the threads with a tap.

 

[KustomSkylark]

Is there any part of the bolt sticking out after you get the manifold off? If so, heat it up nice and red with one of them little propane or butane torches, then clamp some vice grips on the part that is sticking out and twist it off. Same thing happend to me when I was pulling my 200 out of it's old doner car.

 

[Anonymous]

Pipe to manifold?
or
Manifold to head?

If you can get the manifold off, Kustom's idea is good (may need to be a wee bit larger torch, though) If it is flush let a mchine shop handle it, last time they charged $10 to pull the broken bolt, took them 10 minutes or less.

Broken bolt in head sucks. I drilled mine and tapped to 5/16" instead of 3/8". Didn't have time to pull head and take it to machine shop.

 

[S2261]

It may sound like a hassle, but pulling the head is the best way to deal with it. The hole you drill must be straight and dead center. Start with a small bit. If you can find left hand drill bits use those. You should be able to measure how long the broken part is by measuring whats left. Drill all the way through and spray some PB Blaster in there. Now comes the hard part. Being patient. Keep drilling progressively larger holes and spraying PB Blaster in there. Resist the temptation to use a small extracter. It will break and you will be sad. Whack it with a hammer every once in awhile. Try to rotate the broken part with a pin punch. Keep at it. Try not to drill into the threads on the head. Use a tap to clean out the hole when done. Good luck.

 

[kirkallen143]

Same with mine on its first overhaul, PULL THE HEAD! You will be dissappointed with yourself if you try to drill and retap the threads while the head is still on. Believe me I know from first experiences, and futhermore it is less than a day job for the misfortuned (like me). Good luck.

Kirk ' 73 bronco

 

[Anonymous]

I was afraid that was the answer I'd get- pulling the head Nothing on the engine swap has worked out - the new carb does not work right, compression is low (I think- need new guage) and now this. I'm still in physical therapy with a back injury so the last thing I need right now is to have to pull the head. I guess it's back to square one- compression test and then decide what to to.

I don't know if there is any bolt protruding from the head- by puting the broken bolt head next to the manifold it look's like it probably broke off flush. I'm not going to attempt removing the other bolts right now for fear of them breaking as well- this is my daily driver so it can't be down for several days. I'll probably just keep driving it as is for now until I get another daily driver to rely on- thanks for your tips!

Thor

 

[S2261]

When removing the rest of the bolts try giving them a good squirt of PB Blaster for a few days in a row before you try it. When loosening the bolts try to work them back and forth a little at a time. Loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. The back bottom bolt(#6) is a little tough to get at with the sterter in. You may want to pull that too. From under the car, with a long extension and six point socket you can reach all the bolts. Or you could pull the head with manifold attached and remove it on your workbench.

 

[Anonymous]

When loosening the bolts try to work them back and forth a little at a time. Loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. .

this is what I tried to do, but got that awful sensation when the bolt gently sheared off Unfortuneately, only the end bolts go through the head so you can soak the threads- the one the broke off is in the middle "port" of the manifold- I don't dare try and remove the other two until I'm ready to rememdy the situation.

 

[wsa111]

I know its too late, but always install the exhaust manifold bolts with anti-seeze.

That way you will prevent a disaster that you are now faced with. Willaim

 

[Anonymous]

I know, I know :roll: that's why the manifold came off my old 170 with ease as I'd replaced it's gasket a few years back and used anti seize. I'm starting to get the impression this 200 was not properly assembled OR rebuilt.....