Cam bearings hard to install?

LameHoof65

Famous Member
Well, I thought about bundling the block with crank, pistons and rods into the machinist to have the bearings/bushings replaced---But then I thought--they look pretty easy to replace--why waste time and money on a machinist? So,, I start trying to locate the cam bearing install tool. No one has one, Oreillys, Autozone, Pep Boys---So I thought how about buying one---and one was all I could find and it lists for $150.00. A little steep for a tool you may use 2 or 3 times in a lifetime---So then I talked to a friend who has every tool known to man and some not..He has done a bunch of rebuilds and he says "That is the one tool I don't have---I always let the machinist do that---I suggest you do the same." So, now I am thinking---crap do I really need to install these bearings...Addo has made some good points about why not too and others have made some good points about why I should....Seems the big issue is marring the cast iron where the bearing seats or getting a seat in crooked or not getting a tight fit or having it fit without at least 75% direct hit on the oil holes. :roll: Yes, I know "Darwin just make up your mind and go with your decision!!!" Would you--or wouldn't you try this yourself, if it was your first go at an installation of the cam bearings?
 
ok if i were u i would send it to the machine shop but that is not wut i did my smart self bought the $230 cam bearing installer and still messed up one of the bearings and had to wait on the parts place to send them
so in my opinion just send it to the machine shop and have them do it for u
 
I replaced my cam bearings when replacing my cam shaft. You definately need the tool. I rented one from a local tool rental shop, Tools Unlimited. I think it cost about $30-$40 overnight.

To do the job you first must take the oil pan off. Also the job requires two people.

The trick, in my opinion to the job is to first use the tool to get the old bearings out. Then use a dab of touch up paint on the side of each bearing housing to mark the axial position of the oil hole. Then when installing the new bearing the pearson under the car can position the bearing's oil hole to match the paint mark while the other person taps it in. I then used a zip tie to poke inthe hole ensuring the bearing and oil hole match up. If you miss one punch the bearing through and just redo it.

As far as how far to push the bearings in, look at the position of the old bearings. Mine were centered in the housing.

The toughest bearing to tap in right is the one at the front of the engine. Since you can't use it's housing to provide a centering point. You have to be careful to tap it in straight. I did it mostly by eye and then when nead the end got out the dial calipers to measure and make sure it was not cocked to a side.

Also note I did not replace the rear most bearing. Mine was fine and I believe the freeze plug or whatever it was at the back would need to be removed.

Hope this helps,
Greg

P.S. look on Ebay for deals on the tool... I saw a couple when I was looking.
 
PPS. IThe only reason I did it myself was to avoid taking the block out of the car. A machine shop does not charge much to replace the bearings if you bring them the block.... Probably less then $50...

Greg
 
Greg":3d1rpmwb said:
A machine shop does not charge much to replace the bearings if you bring them the block.... Probably less then $50...

Shop here is only $10 !!
I would never try it myself for that.

It takes them maybe 5 minutes to do four bearings.

Why are you replacing them?? I almost never replace cam bearings!!
 
If they just looked rough I wouldn't even consider it---however, there are some ridges across a couple of the middle ones and on the front one at the bottom it feels and looks like pitting. Also on one of my posts I put a pic of some shavings I found---I have no idea where the shavings came from and can't find any internal damage. The cam that cam out looks like it had even wear without evidence of damage, but those shavings worry me a bit.
 
Back
Top