Not good. I went to mock up the compressor and realized I don’t have the right compressor clutch. This is what I have:here's ur aviators:
Congrats !
Boy I can see now. The 'double brackets" sure push the PS
pump out there. Glad it got the belt to line up No Clearancing.
All ways want my prts to live'n fight nother day.
Hows things lookin on da odder side?
All Small Six Can you stack crank pulley sheaves?
- Thread starter ags290
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
This is what I need:
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Here is the latest report: I was able to find the correct compressor clutch and pulley from a guy on the Vintage Mustang Forum. I had to modify the clutch coil slightly to fit the new replacement compressor. I have all of the belts aligned. I did end up using a 1/8" shim on the water pump pulley to get a little more clearance for the power steering belt where it goes in front of the bolt for the thermostat housing. I have rotated the engine by hand and everything looks good. I have not fired it up because I still have the radiator out.
I am trying to get the condenser fitted. The brackets for the condenser have studs that go through the core support and are used to mount the radiator and the fan shroud on the engine bay side. I ended up buying a Scott Drake repro condenser and brackets and it almost fits. Like everything it is going to require some adjustments to get it to fit correctly, but it is really close.
Summer has finally arrived here in North Texas and it is brutally hot in the garage in the evenings after work so progress has slowed. We were blessed with very temperate weather until about the first week of June. I plan on getting back to work on fitting the condenser and radiator tomorrow morning while it is still relatively cool. Once I get it where I like it I can start figuring out the fan spacer.
I will post pictures this weekend.
Kevin
I am trying to get the condenser fitted. The brackets for the condenser have studs that go through the core support and are used to mount the radiator and the fan shroud on the engine bay side. I ended up buying a Scott Drake repro condenser and brackets and it almost fits. Like everything it is going to require some adjustments to get it to fit correctly, but it is really close.
Summer has finally arrived here in North Texas and it is brutally hot in the garage in the evenings after work so progress has slowed. We were blessed with very temperate weather until about the first week of June. I plan on getting back to work on fitting the condenser and radiator tomorrow morning while it is still relatively cool. Once I get it where I like it I can start figuring out the fan spacer.
I will post pictures this weekend.
Kevin
"... is brutally hot..."
best of luck to avoid triple digit temps.
Here is BS too (no more winter till Feb,
terrible humid summers). I wonder if
the few of us wrkin on it can ever get it
back to the way it was? We need more
side kicks. My 1st efforts:
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zerowasteamherst.wixsite.com
(oddly, if studying it - waste seems 2B a leverage point).
Stay Kouwell, Kevin, we'll still B here
best of luck to avoid triple digit temps.
Here is BS too (no more winter till Feb,
terrible humid summers). I wonder if
the few of us wrkin on it can ever get it
back to the way it was? We need more
side kicks. My 1st efforts:
Zero Waste Amherst
Zero Waste Amherst, Amherst, Massachusetts. 220 likes. Zero Waste Amherst strives to move the Town of Amherst toward zero waste through planning, policy, l
www.facebook.com
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Stay Kouwell, Kevin, we'll still B here
I thought I would post an update and some pictures. The condenser, radiator, fan and shroud are installed. I had to play with the fan spacing a little to get something remotely close. I ended up using a 3/4” spacer to give the fan some clearance from the radiator. I also went ahead and replaced the fuel and distributor advance lines with pre bent ones for a 1966 Mustang since I changed the fuel pump to the 1966 non filter one.
I now have a Ford 1G alternator instead of the GM AC Delco one that I was running before. I used one of the external voltage regulator kits that mounts to the back of the alternator case to keep it a one wire set-up. Hopefully I got the wiring right and it works.
I have the grille out and am at the point of getting my courage up to cut the upper hole in the core support. I hope to add fluids tomorrow and fire this thing up just to make sure I haven’t introduced any new issues.
Thanks Again for all of the help and encouragement.
Kevin
ags290
I now have a Ford 1G alternator instead of the GM AC Delco one that I was running before. I used one of the external voltage regulator kits that mounts to the back of the alternator case to keep it a one wire set-up. Hopefully I got the wiring right and it works.
I have the grille out and am at the point of getting my courage up to cut the upper hole in the core support. I hope to add fluids tomorrow and fire this thing up just to make sure I haven’t introduced any new issues.
Thanks Again for all of the help and encouragement.
Kevin
ags290
Attachments
WoW ! U got the a/c in.
"...cut the upper hole in the core support..."
for fresh air in? I may put the last 3, 4 yr one our bronks had.
"...the 1966 non filter one..."
still the 'brass' 1 on at carb?
the "... Ford 1G alternator..."
remote idea for that (depends on if going w/the PullPal mig). Like to
hear abt it. I thought the regulator was internal (thus the 1 wire). What yr alt?
"...cut the upper hole in the core support..."
for fresh air in? I may put the last 3, 4 yr one our bronks had.
"...the 1966 non filter one..."
still the 'brass' 1 on at carb?
the "... Ford 1G alternator..."
remote idea for that (depends on if going w/the PullPal mig). Like to
hear abt it. I thought the regulator was internal (thus the 1 wire). What yr alt?
Great detail work looks excellent!
Hey Chad! I’ll try to take them in order.
1). You have to cut 2 holes in the core support for the A/C lines to connect to the condenser and drier. The upper one is for the condenser line. The lower one is underneath the stone guard and is where the line to the drier connects. Then on the firewall just below and inboard of the master cylinder you have to cut two holes for the lines to pass through to the evaporator.
2). Yes I still have the brass filter at the carburetor fuel inlet. The 1964 1/2 and 1965 fuel pumps had a cartridge filter at the top side of the fuel pump. The housing for that filter was interfering with the rear power steering brace that runs from the pump to the block. Once I got the brace straight and the fuel pump without the filter installed I was able to push the power steering pump forward and get it to square up with the other rotating bits on the front of the engine.
3). The alternator is supposed to be for a 1965 Mustang. I bought it off Rockauto.com. I had to replace the front pulley for the narrower belt. It is designed to work with an external regulator. The wiring on the car was already modified for a one wire set up, but for a GM alternator. Rather than replacing the harness and putting a voltage regulator back on the core support I just added one of the electronic regulator kits to the back of the alternator. It takes its trigger from the generator light to energize it.
Kevin
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Thank You. It’s not perfect but it is presentable. My intention was for it to look like a well maintained driver.