Car dies at traffic/stop signs.

[Anonymous]

I have 66 with a 200 that does not want to run in town. I have rebuilt the carb. twice and new coil/plugs/wires/filter/etc. The car idles fine, start fine and runs good on the open road. I'm at a loss, almost ready to sell the thing! I saw some other posts about the automatic transmission, if I put it in netural it will keep running but I not sure why.

Any suggestions?

 

[Anonymous]

automatic or stick?

 

[Anonymous]

Not sure but it sounds like a possible vacuum problem. Heard of the same symptoms b4.

 

[Anonymous]

Can you explain the problem a little more? First you say the car idles fine - Does it idle fine in all gears? If you put the car in R and hold you foot on the brake does it die then? Or only when coming to a stop?

Is the car dying as you're slowing down? Or does it come to a stop, sputter, then die?

Have you checked the vaccum readings at idle (with the car in P and in D)?

The three simplest explanations are:
1. Vaccum leak (very easy to check)
2. Not enough timing advance
3. Your idle speed is set too low.

For instance, my car does not like to idle in D very well. I have to run it about 650+ RPM in Drive (about 900 in park) otherwise mine will die.

I don't think we can help much more without a bit more detailed explanation.

8)

 

[Anonymous]

I'm having the same problem. When i back out of the drive way in R, all of sudden the car will just idle, not turn off but the engine will just run. Then when i put into D, it wont go into gear, but i have to rev the engine up to get it going. Then when i pull up to a stop sign, it will do the samething.

Someone said check the choke, but I'm new with cars(mustang, same as eddie_wood), and i dont know where that is.

How would one check the vaccum or idle speed?

 

[Anonymous]

I have 66 with a 200 that does not want to run in town. I have rebuilt the carb. twice and new coil/plugs/wires/filter/etc. The car idles fine, start fine and runs good on the open road. I'm at a loss, almost ready to sell the thing! I saw some other posts about the automatic transmission, if I put it in netural it will keep running but I not sure why.

Any suggestions?

 

[Anonymous]

1 am having a small problem with my 64 1/2 . It has a 200 ci with a CARTER YB carb. The car runs great on the road. Once the car reaches complete warm up i start having stalling problems when i try to back into the garage..it chugs a few times and then stalls.. (worse in the hot summer) it idles fine in park. One mechanic suggested i get a valve job which i did! and that had no affect on it. I am now thinking of getting a new carb from pony carbs. Since it mainly occurs in reverse is it a vacuam problem or carb ?

 

[rbohm]

8) for automatics the idle speed needs to be set with the ebrake on and the trans in drive. low idle speed is usually the problem with stalling when the engine is warmed up. when the engine is cold a lean mix is usually the problem.

 

[Anonymous]

It is an automatic, the problem only seemd to occur when the engine is warm and happens both in reverse and park. The car idles fine on park or it seems like any gear when you first start it. I notice it the most when coming to a stop.

I really appreciate all the advice.

 

[Anonymous]

I can empathize with your plight. I had the same problem with my Fairlane a couple of years ago. It would stall badly especially when I had shut off the engine & restarted it 15-20 minutes later. It would idle in neutral but stall in drive unless I pulled the choke completely out. First things first-vacuum leaks. Even though you say you rebuilt the carb, I would suggest that the carb is your major problem. A proper rebuild involves inspection for warping & distortion of the carb body & repair which very few of us have the ability or tools to accomplish. Save yourself the grief & eliminate that variable, buy a rebuilt carb with a warranty. This is what I have done & most of my problem was solved with this one swap. Second-Heat, the carb mounted on the log especially with the carb adaptor that has the heater hose thru it gets hot! It is one of many weaknesses in the design of the head. Dont just ask me! I went to a 3 row core radiator to help with that problem. With temp at 160 deg. in summer, higher in winter I have had no problems. Hope this helps