i think i have read the falcon 6 handbook right, i want to replace the 1100 1bbl on my 170 with a carb that does NOT have a spark control valve,i will have to replace the distributor wont i? i dont want the timing or my distributor tied to a piece of junk carb, what carb/dist. do i need? i do not want to use a duraspark the 170 is just going to get me thru the winter
carb/distributor swap
- Thread starter chicken
- Start date
Yes, the spark control valved carb and dizzy are a matched set. The Load-O-Matic dizzy, as its called, requires zero to 5 in Hg of vacuum to operate. The degrees of advance are controled to the HUNDREDTH of an inch of HG vacuum. A regualr "ported" vacuum source is not that fine of a control.
Personally I went to the local Auto-Zoo type parts place and ordered a "single bbl from a '68 170/200 Ford". The carb is on my car and functional. Now it is a YF carb and not at all like the FoMoCo carb you have. The air cleaner is different and stuff like that. I also went with the DS II set-up. Very easy to install and wire.
Check the Falcon six handbook, I think that there was one year were the carb on your car had a ported vac source versus the LOM.
Good Luck
Personally I went to the local Auto-Zoo type parts place and ordered a "single bbl from a '68 170/200 Ford". The carb is on my car and functional. Now it is a YF carb and not at all like the FoMoCo carb you have. The air cleaner is different and stuff like that. I also went with the DS II set-up. Very easy to install and wire.
Check the Falcon six handbook, I think that there was one year were the carb on your car had a ported vac source versus the LOM.
Good Luck
Howdy All:
Chicken- The Autolite 1100 you want will be from a '68 or '69 170/200. These are the only years of an 1100 without a SCV. Note that they are also down on flow- rated at 150 cfm- which should be fine for your 170. You didn't say whether your trans was an auto or manual, but some reference # are- '68 & '69- Manual- C8OF-A, Auto- C8OF-B.
These carbs will work best with a distributor from '68 to '73. A distributor from these years will have points, centrifugal and vacuum advance.
These pieces should be a direct swap on '65 and later 170s.
Also note the the Load-a-Matic carb/distributor system is really quite a good system so long as it is clean and working as designed. A good cleaning & lube, new vacuum hoses, and a good tune up can do wonders for a troublesome system. The Autolite 1100 is not "a piece of Junk"! It is just misunderstood. It is relatively simple, cannot stand dirt and gunk and needs to be rebuilt every few years. A rebuild kit supplies a new Spark Control Valve. A rebuild kit is less than $20.00. A new carb will be more than $70.00. You do the math.
If you do need to replace the sotck carb, consider moving up to an Autolite 1100 for a 200 for your year vehicle, for a significant increase in performance. The 200 carb is rated at 185 CFM.
Mugsy- the correct carb for a '68 is an Autolite 1100, not a Carter YF. Please check to verify. The Carter YF did not appear until 1970. It will have a cable throttle linkage, a different air cleaner and fuel lines.
Adios, David
Chicken- The Autolite 1100 you want will be from a '68 or '69 170/200. These are the only years of an 1100 without a SCV. Note that they are also down on flow- rated at 150 cfm- which should be fine for your 170. You didn't say whether your trans was an auto or manual, but some reference # are- '68 & '69- Manual- C8OF-A, Auto- C8OF-B.
These carbs will work best with a distributor from '68 to '73. A distributor from these years will have points, centrifugal and vacuum advance.
These pieces should be a direct swap on '65 and later 170s.
Also note the the Load-a-Matic carb/distributor system is really quite a good system so long as it is clean and working as designed. A good cleaning & lube, new vacuum hoses, and a good tune up can do wonders for a troublesome system. The Autolite 1100 is not "a piece of Junk"! It is just misunderstood. It is relatively simple, cannot stand dirt and gunk and needs to be rebuilt every few years. A rebuild kit supplies a new Spark Control Valve. A rebuild kit is less than $20.00. A new carb will be more than $70.00. You do the math.
If you do need to replace the sotck carb, consider moving up to an Autolite 1100 for a 200 for your year vehicle, for a significant increase in performance. The 200 carb is rated at 185 CFM.
Mugsy- the correct carb for a '68 is an Autolite 1100, not a Carter YF. Please check to verify. The Carter YF did not appear until 1970. It will have a cable throttle linkage, a different air cleaner and fuel lines.
Adios, David
CZLN,
I went to the local Murrays (think Auto-Zoo) and asked for a '69 carb. I got a YF. The air cleaner off a '76 Granada fits it perfectly. Personally I think that the big auto stores do not know the difference between years, or that someone returned a YF as a core. Who knows. He should just be prepared to deal with a different carb, thats all.
tanx,
Keith
I went to the local Murrays (think Auto-Zoo) and asked for a '69 carb. I got a YF. The air cleaner off a '76 Granada fits it perfectly. Personally I think that the big auto stores do not know the difference between years, or that someone returned a YF as a core. Who knows. He should just be prepared to deal with a different carb, thats all.
tanx,
Keith
A
Anonymous
Guest
Would they not be a direct swap for earlier years? I am thinking of doing somthing similar on my '64.
Howdy;
'64Falcon170- Yes, But!!! Don't ya just hate those big butts?
They will be a direct swap for earlier years with two exceptions-
1. They have no Spark Control Valve for compatibility with the Load-a-matic distributor.
2. They have a smaller 1.10" venturi, rated at 150 CFM, perfect for a 170, but down on power for a 200.
Adios, David
'64Falcon170- Yes, But!!! Don't ya just hate those big butts?
They will be a direct swap for earlier years with two exceptions-
1. They have no Spark Control Valve for compatibility with the Load-a-matic distributor.
2. They have a smaller 1.10" venturi, rated at 150 CFM, perfect for a 170, but down on power for a 200.
Adios, David
It's not a straight swap. First is to put in a later oil pump, which also needs the 5/16" drive shaft. Then you need to turn down the pilot end of the "new" dizzy shaft to original dimensions. If you have access to a good lathe, there's maybe five hours for a really tidy job, whoa to go.
saltwaterfalcon1960
Well-known member
What does a spark control valve do?I know it controls spark,But how does it work?thanks
