Carburetor Problems maybe


Well-known member
I need Help..
I have a 62 falcon with a 170 and the Ford 2 speed auto.

I just rebuilt the 170. all stock except its .030
I have a Ford 1100 carb on top.. I've rebuilt this carb while assymbling the engine. This is a plain f-1100 it doesn't have the second accelerator pump on the paasenger side of the carb..

I broke in the engine using a carb off my 61 falcon.. I knew the carb was good.

Problem is I can't get the engine to idle I can start the car and feather the throttle and keep it running above 1500rpm anything below that it stalls.
I've checked for vacuum leaks. I've messed with the idle speed and the mixture screw to no avail..

I pulled the plugs and they are fouled.. runs rich.. except cylinders 1 &2 look normal..
I readjusted the valves thinking it was a valve adjustment issue.. no change..
I took the carb apart to see if the float adjustment was off.. nope its at 1 3/32" per the rebuild kit instructions.

So I turned in the adjustment screw to lean it out and now it backfires through the carb.. pretty fire...

I'm almost ready to sell this hoopty..



Well-known member
How?? The car wont idle so I can't throw a timing light on it..

I brought the engine to TDC verified the balancer with the position of the piston.

I then marked the distributor housing with a sharpie where the rotor pointed.
I then turned the engine to the 10* BTDC. I rotated the distributor till my mark lined up with the rotor.

I should be around 10* +/- a couple of degrees..

I'm going to check the valve lash so I'll double check my timing


james singleton

Well-known member
I had a similar problem with a rebuilt 1100 carb, that I had bought, where I could not get the engine to idle correctly. Two things that got my engine running fine was to: #1. Back off the carburetor "fast idle screw" to where the adjustment screw was not even engaged (you can adjust it later to the proper rpm) and #2 Instead of backing the "fuel mixture screw" out approximately 1 & 1/2 turns to begin with, like I have always done with other carbs, my spec. book called for 3 & 1/2 to 4 turns out to start with and then you can adjust it from there, or fine tune it from there. Those two things got the engine running great! It is worth the try; hope this helps!???


Well-known member
Thanks for the help.

I currently have the idle mixture screw 4 turns out. I've tried everything from 1 turn out to 5 turns out adjusting at 1/4 at a time..

I've done the same with the idle speed screw as well, but I'll try it again.



Well-known member
I pulled a good carb off my other falcon and it ran much better so the carb is my problem..

No back fire no miss and doesn't seem to foul out my plugs..

New problem is it over heats.. I was warming it up to operating temp so I could set the idle and check the timing.. SO I still need to do that..

In the mean time I'm going to change the thermostat as a precaution and I need to find a radiator as I discovered there is a pin-hole leak in the one I have..

Explains why I flushed alot of radiator stop leak out of it when I had the radiator out of the car..



Well-known member
I'm going to throw the carb into the cleaning tank and start all over.
I had the power valve circut tested using a vacuum pump and it is stuck in the wide open postion. So I ordered the parts to rebuild the power valve. Which requires me to pull the little freeze plug out of the top.

Kinda hard to explain, but it usually isn't messed with with a simple carb kit.

Now would be a perfect time for me to order a new Pony Carb 1100, but that is alot of money and I have 3 falcons to maintain..



AZstang66":uby72w6z said:
check the idle circuit- make sure all springs, check balls, etc. are present.

I'm guessing you're already aware of all those little parts but it is very important to make sure they're all there, as AZstang66 mentions. I think the manual 1100 (minus the anti-stall dashpot) has one less check ball...also make sure the little cylindrical weight for the acc. pump discharge is present...IIRC it goes in on top of a check ball in the acc. pump outlet passage.

You're way ahead if you know what the actual power valve assembly is...many refer to the acc. pump as power valve. Although here is a thread that cautions (as all the kits do) about disassembling the power valve. ... auto+choke

I like your idea of soaking it a good while, and would consider seeing if you can get it to free up before disassembling. It has a return spring so if it's in the raised position (alwasy on) once you get it cleaned up after a good soak and freely moving you may not be a need to disassemble it. I would be sure to follow the setup steps (again if IIRC) these are in most carb kits, but a member 'Simon' has a good write up on it somewhere up here.

I will try to summarize cause I can't find his thread, but instructions should be in kit...basically use small drill bit (1/16 again IIRC) to set guage on throttle plate, close throttle plate to hold drill bit in place then close choke completely from this position while holding those adjust fast idle screw to just contact cam. Then on top use same drill bit between choke butterfly and carb. Hold choke butterfly closed against the drill bit, back main idle speed screw off till fast idle screw just touches fast idle cam then immediately set nylon choke pull off nut to just touch butterfly shaft... best recollection.

You may already be aware of this process and all the little parts but this is the area where the 1100 is a bit picky.
Good luck


Well-known member
Thank you for the tip on setting the fast idle adjsutment.
I'll give that a try..
I have all the check balls and the check weight. I actually am lucky enough to have a carb guy here local that is very helpful..I bought the weight and a smaller jet when I rebuilt the carb the first time..
He is also the guy that tested the power valve for me..
We discovered that the carb was orginally off a 65 Ford engine and in 65 the one year only the power valve had an assist mechanism. (forgot what its called) but basically it has an extra air bleed that prevents the power valve from working properly. So we sealed the air bleed and the power valve works now..

So into the cleaner it goes.. I will replace the shaft bushing as well, seeing how I never did it and neither did Holley when it was orginally rebuilt..