Completely Frustrated!!!!

[ponyboy14]

Okay

So I was on here a couple of weeks ago and got some real good advice on how to keep my header bolts tight, because my gasket blew out after only 300 some miles. I bought some of those locking header bolts from Mike and got a new gasket and thought I was going to be set. My old man and I spent all day removing the intake and header and scraping the head where the old gasket was stuck on. Next I spread some of that copper gasket goop on the gasket and lined it up one the head. Then since the Pacemaker headers are all welded together and are not easily spread we spent a long time trying to get my new header bolts in and ended up having to pry on one end of the header to get it to line up with the last two bolt holes closest to the firewall. And at last we finally bolted my OZ intake back on and hooked my fuel line back up. I drove the car three times for periods of a half an hour each time and the damn thing is blown again. What am I doing wrong?????

 

[Anonymous]

Well, having to pry the header in place to get the bolts line up is probably a good sign that something is warped. Since you will be tearing it apart again, check the port alignment of the header with a new gasket. I would also get a long straight edge and check the surface across the exhaust ports and the header flange for flatness. Use a feeler gauge between the flanges and the straight edge.

 

[AzCoupe]

Did you follow these steps? Most miss them.

Once you have all the bolts started, lightly snug them up, starting from the center. Work in a crisscross patern (from the center) working outward.

Then go back and torque the bolts in the same manor to 30-35 lbs. Never over tighten. I torque to 20-25, then go back over again, to 30-35. I also spray the bolts with WD40 before installing them.

Start the motor and run till it reaches its normal operating temp, then shut down. Once its cooled down, re-torque the bolts once more. If your using the Breslin bolts, don't tighten the set screw until this step is competed.

Go back and re-torque the bolts once more after a few days or cycles (running to operating temp and cool down).

Hope that helps.

 

[ponyboy14]

Hey Guys

Thanks a lot for responding to my whole ordeal. Mike I'm going to follow your directions next time. When we tightened them down the first time, we went from the center out, but we didn't use a torque wrench. The only thing I see as a problem is getting the torque wrench back in there after I put the intake back on and let the car heat up. I have absolutely no room. Do they make a smaller sized torque wrench? Also is it a bad idea to cut the flange that connects the last two header ports to the number 3 and 4 ports? It seems as though my header is just about a 1/4 two short for my head.

 

[addo]

Do a "dry fit" if possible, and see that you have adequate clearance for all the bolts. You can use a 3/8 drive torque wench as these are generally smaller. Overtightening is a sure way to invite trouble, too.

I am starting to think that drilling a couple of the bolt holes oversize for ¼" and using a pressed-in piece of tube to align, might be the go. Rather like the way SBF heads are indexed.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

when installing someting that has to line up over such a long area getting all the bolts started just a turn or two before running any bolts in any distance at all will often make non fitting things fit (especially exhaust headers. But as was mentioned nothing will make two flat surfaces seal if one or both is warped (especially echaust headers and manifolds) so double check surfaces with straight edge. Often once a header is run with a blown gasket it will warp a little from the uneven heat--but easy to resurface.