Howdy Trashline:
The best help on swapping heads is a shop manual. They run about $50. Second best ("BEST" may be both of these) is a knowledgeable friend, whose done a few head swaps to help you.
Be sure to compare chamber volume between the old and new head.
Be sure to compare head gasket thickness between the one you take off and the one you plan to install.
Be sure to mill enough to conpensate for the differences. Reread the sticky at the top of this forum for details.
On the compression test, begin by removing all the spark plugs.
Check and record each cylinder. This is the "dry" test. If all are about the same- good! IF one or more is significantly lower than the others- bad. If all are low, it is a good indication that the engine is worn beyond simple repairs and needs a major overhaul.
If one, or several are low, determine if it is due to a broken valve/burned valves/blown head gasket (Valve job)-----OR------ a broken piston/broken rings (Shortblock rebuild).
To determine, inject a small amount of #30 engine oil, through the spark plug hole onto the cylinder walls. This is the "wet" test. The idea is for the oil to seal between the piston and the cylinder walls. If the pressure goes up, it is a good indication that you have a sealing problem- possibly broken/worn rings, a cracked or broken piston, and scarred cylinder wall or ????.
You said your engine burns oil. It could likely be from the valve stem seals. If all pressure readings are similar, valve stem seals are a good bet. Your rebuilt head should have new valve stem seals.
You can change lifters when the head is off. You will need a special lifter extractor tool. It is described and pictured in the Shop Manual. Is is risky to change lifters without changing cam too, as lifters and cam lobes wear together. If you must, use plenty of assembly lube on the new lifters. IF the engine is old and worn, the timing chain will likely be worn and sloppy too.
Adios, David
