Compression
- Thread starter sfx66
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sfx66":3628tl66 said:
There is no way in hell I would pay 950$ for a used 200, muchless one with 30k miles. Are you in europe or something?
You can rebuild your own for (much) less than that. I picked up my used 200 w/ 50 miles on the rebuild for 50 bucks.
Hell, I even think some of the over-the-counter longblocks are less than that.
) .
I'd pay $950. If the seller installs it; and it comes with all accessories, headers, and new carb/dizzy combo. Stroke him a check when I hear it run in my car. 
60s Refugee
Well-known member
$950 is way too much for a used engine. The dealer price for a long block through my sources is $985. Thats for head and all! I
Harry
Harry
Does it change things if I can drop it in and go. Plug and play pretty much. The engine has almost $600 in the following upgrades:
Pony re-engineered carburetor
Pertronix II Ignitor
Pertronix II Flamethrower coil
Starter
Water pump
Alternator
Electronic voltage regulator.
includes engine mounts and transmission crossmember.
My thinking was I could buy one cheaper, but would have to end up buying all pulleys/brackets and other misc items that may be missing. Just to give som ebackground, my car was a I6. I decided I was going to put in a V8, but changed my mind.. but I had already gotten rid of everything because my I6 block was no good. I got rid of frame mounts, crossmember etc.
This motor will be a straight drop in. As I mentioned, it drove good and had plenty of power and never ran hot. Also considering the owner had already changed or upgraded the suspension (heavier components rear end, heavier tires and wheels) the car still seemed to have good power. Also ran good with A/C on. This car is meticulously cared for and the motor as well. Everything well documented.. yes the guy kept an up to date service manual.
My thinking originally was that this was insane to pay that much.. but after looking around, I did find them for $100 but I am trying to restore my car, not inherit a problem. The other motors needed to be rebuilt and I don't have the $$ for that right now. I don't know where you guys get motor built, but here in Ca. they are asking $15-1800 for rebuilds on these motors. They actually cost more to rebuild than V8's. Why is that. So consider what I'm getting. I got the opportunity to ride in it before it was pulled and all checked out ok. Is 30k really a lot of miles for these motors. The actual mileage could be more +/-. Was rebuilt at 90k, now has 125,500
What's the deal, am I getting ripped off or not. I am used to V8's and have not been familiar with these motors for some years now. I just know I'm not up to changing suspension components on my car, so it's gotta stay a 6 for now.
Pony re-engineered carburetor
Pertronix II Ignitor
Pertronix II Flamethrower coil
Starter
Water pump
Alternator
Electronic voltage regulator.
includes engine mounts and transmission crossmember.
My thinking was I could buy one cheaper, but would have to end up buying all pulleys/brackets and other misc items that may be missing. Just to give som ebackground, my car was a I6. I decided I was going to put in a V8, but changed my mind.. but I had already gotten rid of everything because my I6 block was no good. I got rid of frame mounts, crossmember etc.
This motor will be a straight drop in. As I mentioned, it drove good and had plenty of power and never ran hot. Also considering the owner had already changed or upgraded the suspension (heavier components rear end, heavier tires and wheels) the car still seemed to have good power. Also ran good with A/C on. This car is meticulously cared for and the motor as well. Everything well documented.. yes the guy kept an up to date service manual.
My thinking originally was that this was insane to pay that much.. but after looking around, I did find them for $100 but I am trying to restore my car, not inherit a problem. The other motors needed to be rebuilt and I don't have the $$ for that right now. I don't know where you guys get motor built, but here in Ca. they are asking $15-1800 for rebuilds on these motors. They actually cost more to rebuild than V8's. Why is that. So consider what I'm getting. I got the opportunity to ride in it before it was pulled and all checked out ok. Is 30k really a lot of miles for these motors. The actual mileage could be more +/-. Was rebuilt at 90k, now has 125,500
What's the deal, am I getting ripped off or not. I am used to V8's and have not been familiar with these motors for some years now. I just know I'm not up to changing suspension components on my car, so it's gotta stay a 6 for now.
Well, here is my opinion:
If you have NOTHING, IE a bare engine bay - 950 for everything to drop the motor in, turn the key and it runs - is not bad. All of the small supporting parts will nickel and dime you to death, and depending on how much you value your time - it may be a good deal. Does that include the transmission as well?
No used motor is really worth a whole lot IMO. Unless I know the guy personally, I always assume that it is basically a core and any service I get out of it before having to rebuild is a bonus. If it's got a bunch of aftermarket parts, then I factor those into what I think the core is worth.
I've seen way too many people who bought a "good, running motor" off craigslist that turned out to have all sorts of problems.
If you are trying to restore the car, don't feel particuarily excited about chasing down all of the relavent parts, value your time highly, AND are willing to take a gamble on the true condition of the motor - then I think this is a reasonable deal for you.
If it were me, I would probably take a little more time and find someone who is ditching their I6 for a V8 and buy ALL of their little parts, buy a junkyard late model 200 - and then rebuild it myself.
In that scenario you would probably be in the same ballpark $$ wise, but would end up with a fresh motor that you knew what the deal with was.
Of course, that approach takes a lot more time an effort.
As far as cost of rebuilds - I guess if you drop the motor off at a machine shop and say "rebuild this" you could spend $1500-$2000. If you buy the parts yourself and do your own assembly, only paying for the machine work (deck block, bore, touch up crank if necessary, valve job) your going to be in the $500-$600 range.
It really depends on what you do yourself, and what you ship out.
If you have NOTHING, IE a bare engine bay - 950 for everything to drop the motor in, turn the key and it runs - is not bad. All of the small supporting parts will nickel and dime you to death, and depending on how much you value your time - it may be a good deal. Does that include the transmission as well?
No used motor is really worth a whole lot IMO. Unless I know the guy personally, I always assume that it is basically a core and any service I get out of it before having to rebuild is a bonus. If it's got a bunch of aftermarket parts, then I factor those into what I think the core is worth.
I've seen way too many people who bought a "good, running motor" off craigslist that turned out to have all sorts of problems.
If you are trying to restore the car, don't feel particuarily excited about chasing down all of the relavent parts, value your time highly, AND are willing to take a gamble on the true condition of the motor - then I think this is a reasonable deal for you.
If it were me, I would probably take a little more time and find someone who is ditching their I6 for a V8 and buy ALL of their little parts, buy a junkyard late model 200 - and then rebuild it myself.
In that scenario you would probably be in the same ballpark $$ wise, but would end up with a fresh motor that you knew what the deal with was.
Of course, that approach takes a lot more time an effort.
As far as cost of rebuilds - I guess if you drop the motor off at a machine shop and say "rebuild this" you could spend $1500-$2000. If you buy the parts yourself and do your own assembly, only paying for the machine work (deck block, bore, touch up crank if necessary, valve job) your going to be in the $500-$600 range.
It really depends on what you do yourself, and what you ship out.
Yeah, I hear ya. I just did not want to get bogged down with all the nickel dime type stuff. I've done that with other cars and it only ends up costing you more in the long run.
The motor and trans were pulled together and trans is still attached. I am getting all drivetrain parts.
Yes, My engine bay is clean. I have a Built when I say built, I mean built 302 that was going to go in the car, but as I mentioned my car is a Sprint (some significance, not a lot) and I think it would benefit being original. The car is extremely clean/straight body.. and it would not take much to make a nice looker/show car out of it. I got tons of compliments when I did have it on the road.. before I started tearing it down.
It will stay original and the only upgrade will be 4 lug disc brakes in front.
I'm sorry, I forgot to mention the trans come with it.
The motor and trans were pulled together and trans is still attached. I am getting all drivetrain parts.
Yes, My engine bay is clean. I have a Built when I say built, I mean built 302 that was going to go in the car, but as I mentioned my car is a Sprint (some significance, not a lot) and I think it would benefit being original. The car is extremely clean/straight body.. and it would not take much to make a nice looker/show car out of it. I got tons of compliments when I did have it on the road.. before I started tearing it down.
It will stay original and the only upgrade will be 4 lug disc brakes in front.
I'm sorry, I forgot to mention the trans come with it.
The price does seem "ambitious". Like Ian, I seldom take anyone's word on the quality of a rebuild.
Priced as second hand parts...
Long motor (proven to run) with tinware: $250
Trans: $200
Ignitor and coil: $60
Rebuilt starter (used): $25
Used water pump: $20
Rebuilt alternator (used): $30
Electronic regulator: $15
Pony carb (used): $100
Motor and trans mounts, bracketry and paraphernalia: $120
That comes to about $820 by my estimating. I would knock a little off the price based on some things - firstly it's all being paid for at once, and presumably cash. Secondly, with informal private sales, warranty doesn't really exist so a proportion of the asking price should be deducted as a contingency sum. Finally - as you have not been there to remove it yourself, there is no guarantee of total completeness or lack of misadventure during the removal/storage phase.
If you don't pay $950 for it - who will?
(See where I'm coming from?)
Priced as second hand parts...
Long motor (proven to run) with tinware: $250
Trans: $200
Ignitor and coil: $60
Rebuilt starter (used): $25
Used water pump: $20
Rebuilt alternator (used): $30
Electronic regulator: $15
Pony carb (used): $100
Motor and trans mounts, bracketry and paraphernalia: $120
That comes to about $820 by my estimating. I would knock a little off the price based on some things - firstly it's all being paid for at once, and presumably cash. Secondly, with informal private sales, warranty doesn't really exist so a proportion of the asking price should be deducted as a contingency sum. Finally - as you have not been there to remove it yourself, there is no guarantee of total completeness or lack of misadventure during the removal/storage phase.
If you don't pay $950 for it - who will?
(See where I'm coming from?)I believe the reason the motor was pulled after I decided I wanted it though was so that I could see what condition it was in. This motor was meticulously cared for and documented. Does this change things.. no, but I did feel a sense of comfort in knowing that it drove good.
Mannn, decisions, decisions.. The price is $850. Still may be a bit steep..
Mannn, decisions, decisions.. The price is $850. Still may be a bit steep..
Given everything you've said here, I would show up with 600$ cash and a truck.
That motor is only worth so much to YOU because you need all of the associated parts. 99.9% of other people interested in buying a running six will already have all of those parts, and as such only be interested in paying 2-300$ for a motor in the condition you describe.
So if he doesn't sell it complete to you, he will sell it piecemeal to several others and likely make less (and spend more time).
And if he doesn't accept your 600, it is not as if it was such a screamin deal you are going to kick yourself later.
Take some of these along to help convince him of your point
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG- ... enameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG- ... enameZWDVW
Etc. Look on craigslist wherever you are and use that as ammo.
Call up autzone and ask them how much for a reman engine. I think it's only like 600 bucks.
That motor is only worth so much to YOU because you need all of the associated parts. 99.9% of other people interested in buying a running six will already have all of those parts, and as such only be interested in paying 2-300$ for a motor in the condition you describe.
So if he doesn't sell it complete to you, he will sell it piecemeal to several others and likely make less (and spend more time).
And if he doesn't accept your 600, it is not as if it was such a screamin deal you are going to kick yourself later.
Take some of these along to help convince him of your point
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG- ... enameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG- ... enameZWDVW
Etc. Look on craigslist wherever you are and use that as ammo.
Call up autzone and ask them how much for a reman engine. I think it's only like 600 bucks.
ludwig (I think)":2cyu6y5o said:
ok guys, got this engine home.. now keep ion mind, I bought it because it ran good and was said to only have 35k on it. I dropped the oil pan to change gaskets (mainly because I don't like painted gaskets) and noticed the cam has pits on it. It ran good. what causes pits on a cam. The tops of the lobes look good, it just the sides near the outer edges. My friend says water or condensation. How. Also, he thinks it may be the original cam that was used and just reground? Hard to say. I don't think this happens with a motor with only 35k on it.
Can someone please help explain. I would prefer to button her up and run it being that I know she ran good and strong. Does this effect anyting with the pitting being on the sides.. and not the top of the lobes. Some of them show pretty bad scaring/pitting. You can feel with you fingernail
Can someone please help explain. I would prefer to button her up and run it being that I know she ran good and strong. Does this effect anyting with the pitting being on the sides.. and not the top of the lobes. Some of them show pretty bad scaring/pitting. You can feel with you fingernail
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