Compression

[gb500]

got to agree with addo -

i just changed my cam ( actually took it out for a regrind to a 260 deg cam)) - and as you say the lobe faces had that pitting on the sides.

which aint rust but the surface flaking away -

anyway the regrinder could sort that out.

and i'll hazard a guess it because of concave lifter faces that its the sides of the lobe pitting )

-

lifters - had a look at them looked ok - BUT when you put a straight edge across the face that contacts the cam lobe you could see that they were CONCAVE.

didnt want to wipe out the reground cam so bought a set of new lifters ( which you should do with a new cam anyway) as an good deal on evilbay - $1 ! plus 15 postage.

and when you put a straight edge across the bottom of the new ones the CONVEX bottom was appararent.

you wont be able to tell without taking the lifters out


all up cost me $165 AUD .


so choice is yours - suppose it depends on how many miles you will do ( and what type ie hard or sedate

as bort says - can put it back together with all the orig stuff and it will run


-or peace of mind with new cam + lifters.- which also gives you the chance to pep it up a bit with a classic inlines mild cam


i assume the rest of engine - ie bores etc is good.

brett
melb

 

[sfx66]

I think I will add cam and lifters while I can get to everything. Makes sense. Will probably run, but I don't want to go into this thing again later. Any good cam recommendations. I don't want radical. Just something a little better than stock.

 

[addo]

I'd seriously suggest a regrind to your cam, and either resurfaced or new lifters. This way, the distributor drive gear will be matched to your cam in terms of hardness.

If you buy a brand new cam, then it's considered safe practice to buy a hardened distributor gear - from memory another $60-$80.

A "cam swap" usually entails (on these motors): Cam, lifters, timing set, driven gear, gasket set. You can see how costs start to build up fast.