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You or I could make a nicer one for less than $50....
couldnt you ghetto-rig a turbo manifold out of this?
- Thread starter hasa68mustang
- Start date
The problem with most standard header and exhaust components is that they are simply not up to the task when it comes to turbocharging. Most headers are 18 gage or .049" thick, some are 16 gage or .062. That's why I would suggest Schedule 10 stainless pipe (.109" wall). There have been some directions posted on how to fabricate a turbo header at http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm which use schedule 40 carbon steel pipe. That would be cheaper to build and somewhat heavier (.133-.154 wall depending on pipe diameter) but the basic concept is the same: build it strong enough for the job. For sure you need to ceramic coat the carbon steel and it would be highly recommended even with stainless. The crossover pipe and turbine inlet pipe should be of the same material as the headers. From the turbine outlet back you can use conventional exhaust pipe material but it will have a shorter than normal life because of the heat. Schedule 10 stainless back to the cat or the muffler is a better idea. No need to coat, you're not real concerned about heat loss after the turbine,
when it comes down to it you need something beefy.
I have contact info for a shop that can plasma out a flat flange for around $50 from 1/2" stock for you. doing this and some weld els is the EASIEST way to do a real header/manifold. also remember on a turbo engine you don't have any scavanging effects since the whole manifold is pressurised unlike a NA motor. logs work pretty well on them but a manifold that directs it into a turbo works better. my opinion is build a header for a T3 mount turbo and get a setup working. then make a gen 2 setup with a larger turbo using everything you learned.
I have contact info for a shop that can plasma out a flat flange for around $50 from 1/2" stock for you. doing this and some weld els is the EASIEST way to do a real header/manifold. also remember on a turbo engine you don't have any scavanging effects since the whole manifold is pressurised unlike a NA motor. logs work pretty well on them but a manifold that directs it into a turbo works better. my opinion is build a header for a T3 mount turbo and get a setup working. then make a gen 2 setup with a larger turbo using everything you learned.
I dug around and found this pic of it in the car. I guess this is a crappy angle but you get the idea of where it sits. it is kinda low in the enginebay but the angled outlet on the ford compressor reaches right around the shock tower very cleanly.
so if I can get this going in a month or so then I guess I would be the first stick shift turbo car on here.
so if I can get this going in a month or so then I guess I would be the first stick shift turbo car on here.
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62fairlane170":3nfocng8 said:I dug around and found this pic of it in the car. I guess this is a crappy angle but you get the idea of where it sits. it is kinda low in the enginebay but the angled outlet on the ford compressor reaches right around the shock tower very cleanly.
so if I can get this going in a month or so then I guess I would be the first stick shift turbo car on here.
Amen to stickshifts right on man. Everyone always says autos are faster and easier to get traction. i say who cares you can only legally go the speed limit and it's fun to spin the tires until they need replaced lol. YEs i know that is technically illegal to but, luckily for me im no reverand.
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62fairlane170":35y5a8tk said:
Interetsing....
Gerry Lutz Jr.":35y5a8tk said:
At the track, yes.
I do have a Tremec 3550 ready to go in but I wanted to play with the auto first.....
Why?? Because when boost builds, things happen VERY FAST.
And I just couldn't keep track of boost, fuel pressure, tach, steering and try to think about shifting.
I might leave it auto until I get ready to swap the set-up into my '82.
That way I only have to change clutch/brake pedals once.
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Hello all --
Been away from the forum for quite awhile.
I'm afraid 62fairlane170 would NOT be the first stick turbo car. My 65 mustang has a 1987-88 Ak Miller-built draw through turbo'd 250 with a V8 T5 5 speed behind it. It actually still has the original 7.25 3.2:1 diff. The draw through is limited to only 4# boost, and really doesn't like the humidity in the south, so some day I'll get things changed. But it cranks probably 195 hp and gets 22-25 mpg most times.
Some on the forum here really recommend using the smaller turbo TBird/Mustang T5 trannies. I had one on my Mustang originally, and it expects way too many RPMs than what our sixes like to put out. Of course, winding out in 1st gear at a speed my grandmother and her walker could beat, meant I could have towed an Abrams tank or pulled stumps from the ground. But I don't need to do either, and it was no fun and drank gas like a sailor drinks beer on liberty, so I replaced it with a V8 T5. Actually, what happened was I ruined the tranny -- I was told that the turbo 4-banger transmissions could not handle the torque of a turbo'd inline six (my 'little' 4 lbs boosted 250 is likely pushing 300 ft lbs between 3500 and 4000 RPM). Anyway, now, freeway speeds (55-65 mph) range between 1700 and 2000 RPM, with the ability to drop it into 3rd if I want.
It has been off the road for quite awhile now (over five years, I am embarrassed to say...), as the North Carolina weather has caused a number of rust spots on it. But I've got close to 100,000 miles on the system and it has all held up well. Even the weak original 6 cylinder diff.
So you may have the only _running_ stick shift turbo inliner. But not the first.
Have fun!
--- Barrett
Been away from the forum for quite awhile.
I'm afraid 62fairlane170 would NOT be the first stick turbo car. My 65 mustang has a 1987-88 Ak Miller-built draw through turbo'd 250 with a V8 T5 5 speed behind it. It actually still has the original 7.25 3.2:1 diff. The draw through is limited to only 4# boost, and really doesn't like the humidity in the south, so some day I'll get things changed. But it cranks probably 195 hp and gets 22-25 mpg most times.
Some on the forum here really recommend using the smaller turbo TBird/Mustang T5 trannies. I had one on my Mustang originally, and it expects way too many RPMs than what our sixes like to put out. Of course, winding out in 1st gear at a speed my grandmother and her walker could beat, meant I could have towed an Abrams tank or pulled stumps from the ground. But I don't need to do either, and it was no fun and drank gas like a sailor drinks beer on liberty, so I replaced it with a V8 T5. Actually, what happened was I ruined the tranny -- I was told that the turbo 4-banger transmissions could not handle the torque of a turbo'd inline six (my 'little' 4 lbs boosted 250 is likely pushing 300 ft lbs between 3500 and 4000 RPM). Anyway, now, freeway speeds (55-65 mph) range between 1700 and 2000 RPM, with the ability to drop it into 3rd if I want.
It has been off the road for quite awhile now (over five years, I am embarrassed to say...), as the North Carolina weather has caused a number of rust spots on it. But I've got close to 100,000 miles on the system and it has all held up well. Even the weak original 6 cylinder diff.
So you may have the only _running_ stick shift turbo inliner. But not the first.
Have fun!
--- Barrett
well I got it on the mill for a few hours today. that thing warped like mad!! since all the welding was on ONE side of the square tube it shrank when it cooled and bowed out in the middle. I had to take about 1/4" off the end almost!! since they are a little thin now I am going to build up some weld on the back of the tabs. so I just need to do that and weld on the T3 mounts and deck it also. so I can have a mock up going this coming week as I want to get teh IC mounted and boost tubes made within the next week if I can. overall I give it a C+ on quality...but an A+ on cost 
this will work for round one I think. The next motor I think might be getting a AL head and forged pistons and a REAL header feeding the turbo
this will work for round one I think. The next motor I think might be getting a AL head and forged pistons and a REAL header feeding the turbo
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StrangeRanger":3hn9hsyu said:
That's the one I posted on the 500 Holley thread in the Turbo forums...
Too bad its for a 300
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62fairlane170":1sqbyfu7 said:
Good luck.
It seems like it took forever to get mine done.
That's why I said this:
Linc's 200":1sqbyfu7 said:
What kind of welder do you plan to use?
I got a miller 250 mig
I am using exhaust tubing and it goes pretty quick just cutting up bends and welding them up. gonna concentrait more on getting some body work done
I am using exhaust tubing and it goes pretty quick just cutting up bends and welding them up. gonna concentrait more on getting some body work done
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62fairlane170":2sr8z1tc said:
now THAT.....always takes forever...
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