It's been awhile and I can't find the posts, but was the Crossflow 250 ever equipped with a C4? How hard is it to find those bellhousings?
Crossflow w/C4?
- Thread starter MustangSix
- Start date
From about 1970 until mid 1980, C4 was the up-option to the BW 35 automatic. The Aussie pattern C4 bellhousing was mated to an imported pan fill auto. So the bell just unbolts. There should be a cast in Australian Ford part number, such as 70 DA xxxXX, on the bellhousing. I've never seen one up close. The bellhousing may have been Michigan made, but I don't know for sure. Any one know?
*My friend Wayne had a C4 2V in his Cortina, and it was out of a 72 170 hp 250 2v Falcon. It had the kicdown rod, not the cable.
*The last of the cast iron headed XD Falcons (before the Alloy Head came out) had them as a Tow-Pack option. After the advent of the EFI in 1983, the long suffering BW 35 got upgraded to BW 40 spec, but it wasn't a patch on the old C4.
*After the last of the locally made Cleveland V8's in 1982, Ford Australia never used a fully US gearbox. T5's were non-World Class, built by BTR. Later 5.0's and 5.6's got local BTR T5'S with imported US Borg Warner internals. The autos have been BTR since 1983. The Tremec USED in the 5.4'S and the puny BTR T5 used in the 4.0 XR6 Turbo are brought in from Mexico or BTR Australia.
*My friend Wayne had a C4 2V in his Cortina, and it was out of a 72 170 hp 250 2v Falcon. It had the kicdown rod, not the cable.
*The last of the cast iron headed XD Falcons (before the Alloy Head came out) had them as a Tow-Pack option. After the advent of the EFI in 1983, the long suffering BW 35 got upgraded to BW 40 spec, but it wasn't a patch on the old C4.
*After the last of the locally made Cleveland V8's in 1982, Ford Australia never used a fully US gearbox. T5's were non-World Class, built by BTR. Later 5.0's and 5.6's got local BTR T5'S with imported US Borg Warner internals. The autos have been BTR since 1983. The Tremec USED in the 5.4'S and the puny BTR T5 used in the 4.0 XR6 Turbo are brought in from Mexico or BTR Australia.
The bell was cast locally by BW's foundry, has no P/N and fits the same $10 lower cover plate as all the manuals. I have pondered redrilling a BW35 bell for the front pump bolt pattern of a C4 (cost and supply), but haven't ruled it in or out currently.
As Stanger says, it's on the heavy side. Dellows might be up for a run in alloy if someone pays for the pattern (probably $700 Aussie the first time).
Regards, Adam.
As Stanger says, it's on the heavy side. Dellows might be up for a run in alloy if someone pays for the pattern (probably $700 Aussie the first time).
Regards, Adam.
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Anonymous
Guest
Drop JD a line, he found one for me. Maybe he can help you out.
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Anonymous
Guest
hey ive got a xflow/ c4 bellhousing in melbourne if anyone wants to buy.....
i ended up using a ohc manual bell for ohc/ c4
its got turbous
and is going into a schmick xd....
i ended up using a ohc manual bell for ohc/ c4
its got turbous
and is going into a schmick xd....
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Anonymous
Guest
I found them pretty easily when I was doing the BW M40 -> C4 swap. Most of them are sitting in cars rotting in wrecking yards..
While he tells you that, I'll tell you this. My mate Glen had a 3 litre V6 from a 300ZX in his Mk 1 Escort. He used the stock Jatco 4-stage auto bellhousing, ring gear and starter, and spent 650 bucks on a special slave cylinder that works like one of those centre pullers used for testing chemset reinforcemnt steel rods. It fits over the throwout bearing, and his Supra 5-speed just bolts on to an Al der Hackmiester style adaptor plate.
Easy as. He had to cut a small hole for the hydralic line, and TIG weld in some cleats to hold the thing, but pretty easy for a hydraulic engineer.
Easy as. He had to cut a small hole for the hydralic line, and TIG weld in some cleats to hold the thing, but pretty easy for a hydraulic engineer.
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Anonymous
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ok first of all you need a manual bell housing for an ohc
then you take the housing to a GOOD machine shop get them to:
make hole for auto bigger , using same centre alignment( big enough for c4)
weld extra material above the hole ( for top bolt location)
get them to mill eaxtra metal so it is level with the rest
get them to drill the holles for the auto
get this home, then work the inner support ribs with whatever ( i like my carbide tipped die grinder
) until there in enough room to clear stall converter. DO NOT EAT ALL THE RIBS 
JUST DO AS MUCH AS YOU NEED TTHEN A LITTLE MORE IN CASE OF PLAY
and Bob's your mothers brother. thats it your done. check it out
and it shouldnt cost that much im gettting it done as we type
oh and if you want you can weld up the hole in the side youl know which one im talking about....
then you take the housing to a GOOD machine shop get them to:
make hole for auto bigger , using same centre alignment( big enough for c4)
weld extra material above the hole ( for top bolt location)
get them to mill eaxtra metal so it is level with the rest
get them to drill the holles for the auto
get this home, then work the inner support ribs with whatever ( i like my carbide tipped die grinder
) until there in enough room to clear stall converter. DO NOT EAT ALL THE RIBS JUST DO AS MUCH AS YOU NEED TTHEN A LITTLE MORE IN CASE OF PLAY and Bob's your mothers brother. thats it your done. check it out
and it shouldnt cost that much im gettting it done as we type
oh and if you want you can weld up the hole in the side youl know which one im talking about....
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Anonymous
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as subject
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Anonymous
Guest
thats EXACTLY what im doin....
turb gas research ohc
dont run a management sys if you want straight gas either get programable ignition or get the crossflow dizzy regraphed... :idea:
run a gas research carb
i will be running package in on mid november.. 8)
my combo should be good for maybe mid to high 11s
if the diff holds together....
turb gas research ohc
dont run a management sys if you want straight gas either get programable ignition or get the crossflow dizzy regraphed... :idea:
run a gas research carb
i will be running package in on mid november.. 8)
my combo should be good for maybe mid to high 11s
if the diff holds together....
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Anonymous
Guest
in a light car : my xd is 1350kg = fastttttt
will get pics as soon as its all back from the shop might be a while lett me know what you think.....
alsotheres a hole in the bottom of the rear housing on my c4 /// Is that for the speedo?????? would i be able to use the thing that came out of the bw for speedo on the c4????
any help
will get pics as soon as its all back from the shop might be a while lett me know what you think.....
alsotheres a hole in the bottom of the rear housing on my c4 /// Is that for the speedo?????? would i be able to use the thing that came out of the bw for speedo on the c4????
any help
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Anonymous
Guest
took me 15 min at picka part to figure out that bell housing idea..... and 2 HOURS to get the bastard housing out of the car. 
that poor car ended up with the block falling between the crossmember and firewall.....
that poor car ended up with the block falling between the crossmember and firewall.....
The only small hole that should be on the extension housing of the C4 is for the speedo gear; the BW one should slot right in. There's a little threaded hole next to it for the securing bolt.
I've borrowed the XR/XT factory manual and am reading up on C4s, just to know more than the tranny shop blokes.
Definately a good unit if you want an auto.
I've been trying to get a diff finished for two years; the little BTR/BW 78 rears hold together if they're set up properly and run a 4 pinion centre. 11s would be good. I'd be happy with 12s. Then again, an XP coupe only weighs about 1250kg.
Adam.
I've borrowed the XR/XT factory manual and am reading up on C4s, just to know more than the tranny shop blokes.
I've been trying to get a diff finished for two years; the little BTR/BW 78 rears hold together if they're set up properly and run a 4 pinion centre. 11s would be good. I'd be happy with 12s. Then again, an XP coupe only weighs about 1250kg.
Adam.
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Anonymous
Guest
got my bell housing back today.. machine shop couldn't do it . they gave me the number of an engeneering shop,tok it there ,,, one weekend later got it all back ...
at only 130$$$$$$$$$$ ripper!!
will have pics soon
at only 130$$$$$$$$$$ ripper!!
will have pics soon
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Anonymous
Guest
lets just say i got a bit over excited. its a tnuc of a thing and the bell required more work than i thought. another thing i forgot to do was check if the stall would mate to the flex plate,,,,, it didnt , just requires redrillingthe flex. if i were to do this again i would have gone with modififing the auto bell... thats just my 2cents worth .. this bell is ok if you dont mind doing a fair bit of grinding....
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Anonymous
Guest
I found when I used the speedo gear from my BW into my C4 I had to change the worm gear so it would mesh in, I use the BW speedo with a C4 worm gear
Joip
Joip
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