dam autozone and they're stupid "TOMCO" CARBUR



i've had problems with carbureators on my fiance's car for a while now. it took them 3 different carbureators (autolite 1101) to give me one that's not defective. the one that was ok for a while went out on me a few weeks ago and started to run very rough.

i took it in for warranty and order the autolite1100 cuz it's the correct for a 66 200. i put a old carbureator that was working GOOD off of a spare 200 6cyl engine i have. i put it on there temperarily until the new carbureator gets here. (i am saving this engine so i can put it in another mustang that's dead or no engine and sell it) when i put the older carbureator on the car runs perfect. i didn't even have to touch a dial. i just touched the idle screws to see how far it was out. it was highest idle and plus 3/4 turn. what i always do on customers 1bbl carbs.

the new autolite 1100 from TOMCO came tonight and i put it on. the dam thing stumbled and stumbled and stumbled and hestiated and hestiated and hestiated. after an hour of tuning and playing with it. i said forget it and i just put the old carbureator back on and the car ran fine again. and yes everything was in correctly.

i came to tne conclusion and said "f*** autozone and they're stupid tomco carbureators". i will return this carbureator land get my money back. that's $130 dollars back. i understand alot of you who run daily drivers 200 mustangs run the 2bbl carb from stovebolts or clifford. i would like to put the 130 into that 2bbl and more to make the swap-over. i hear it's the best swap you can do from all of you. i hear it has a nicer idle, better throttle response, 4-6mpg more, and etc. that's all good!!!

how much would the entire swap cost me? i know stovebolts carbs are smaller but a whole lot cheaper at 65 dollars. i would appreciate any suggestion on what route i should go to do the swap. i would like to do the cheapest and pain-free way to do this.

would this be, stovebolts carb, stovebolt aircleaner, clifford linkeage and adapter?
could anybody give me replies on regarding my question on my post?
8) i think you answered you own question. the holley/weber 2bbl swap can be done inexpensively, though i have not yet priced things out. i plan on doing that very swap in the future, how for i am not yet sure. instead of using the adaptor though i will have the head machined for a bolt on fit.
i agree that tomco doesnt have the best kits on the market, but they suffice for me when i need one quickly and cant find or dont have the time to find a holley kit. as for buying rebuilt carbs, i prefer not to. i like to rebuild my own as i know what was done to the carb and can see what parts need attention.
I dunno, I spend ~450 bucks on my 2 barrel conversion. Of course, I believe that chasing parts is for schmucks. :)
has anybody done the stove bolts adapter, carb, aircleaner in a 66 mustang? reason why i'm asking is because of the hood clearance. i know somebody did it on a 68 and made it fit however does somebody have it have it fitting in a 66. they might have different hood clearance. if it hits only 1/2 or so i guess the clifford aircleaner is shorter and is a KN. :D

i need to know promptly. i am returning the autolite 1100 to autozone and getting back the 130 and 15 dollars for my core charge. 145 should be enough to buy stove bolts kits. 65 carb + 15 adapter + 25 air cleaner = $105. and probably about 20 bucks a linkage kit. afater shipping of the stovebolt kit it'll be like 120 + 20 linkage kit = 140. so my money returned will pay for all the parts and some back.

OK. Here we go. The Holley 5200 from Stovebolt is a great investment. Plus, customer support is excellent. You "MIGHT" need to re-jet after it's installed. But when you order ask for one that was originally used on the 2.8 V6's. If he has one, it will be a better match out-of-the-box jet-wise. However, this version is not as common and re-jetting is not difficult. These carbs were used in large numbers by Chrysler and Ford on 4 cyl cars.

Adapter. Use the Clifford version. It is designed to install without the stock adapter / hot water plate so the carb will fit under the hood. It also has all the correct holes in it. If you try to use the generic "stovebolt style" adapter you will spend a good deal of time and money working out air cleaner and linkage issue.

Linkage. The stock throttle arm comming from the firewall has been used by several of us. In my case, I made a short carb arm extension I attached to the carb in addition to (on top of) the linkage that came on the carb. This was necessary to get the throttle opening rotation direction correct for the stock throttle arm. I then puchased a threaded rod the correct length to connect the carb to the throttle arm with original type end fittings. Very simple process. Get this part ready to go BEFORE you take you car apart.

Air Cleaner. I used a standard 10" x 2" chrome unit purchased from Pep Boys. The unit was for the Holley 2 - 4 bbl carb with the larger diameter hole in the base (5 1/8" as I recall). If you can find one with a flat bottom, great. I could not, so I cut the ring off of the bottom plate and attached a thin steel plate purchased from the hardware store where I got the threaded rod. I used a gasket to trace the outline of the top of the carb on the plate and cut to fit the carb. You can then bolt the bottom air cleaner / hold down plate to the top of the carb using the stock carb holes. A top cover hold down will also need to be created. I made one up that looks a lot like the stock set up and bolted it to the top of the carb at the same time using the same holes. Looks great. Flows well. Sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't. If you want to look for one made for the carb, they were originally used on early Pintos / Carpris and a number of Chrysler cars (I believe most of the "K" cars used them). Again, do this BEFORE you take the car apart.

Ignition. If you have the 49 state stock car you have a dual vac advance distributor, the Load-o-matic (Cal cars never came the way - stock). If that is the case you will need to swap to the '68 -'73 dual advance type distributor as the 5200 will not support the dual vac. Personally, I think this is a better perfoming unit and should be used new carb or not. Many will tell you to install the DII electronic unit instead ('78 and up). Not bad advise, I just don't agree. If you want electronic I prefer the Pertronix Ignitor II. It is state of the art with a built in dwell controll processor and the Ignitor II eliminates the ballast resistor in the stock ignition. So, you get 45000 volt ignition, 12 volt coil (need to purchase the one recommended by Pertronix) and 30 min installation. Also, you eliminate the less than reliable Ford electronic control box, i.e., $180 MSD units are frequently installed as an upgrade here.

Cost. Doing this from memory. $65 for carb. (Stovebolt). $70 for adapter (Clifford). $25 for air cleaner (Pep Boys). $70 for rebuilt distributor (Irvine Auto Parts - a good local independant). $100 Ignitor II and coil (Mustangs Unlimited). $10 or $15 misc.

If you go this way do yourself a favor and eliminate the vac advance system all togather. How? When you buy the distributor get one set up with the 10* max mechanical advance weights (come with weight combinations from 10* to 15*). A good parts store can get their rebuilder to set these up any way you want them. Talk to the shop yourself if necessary. Otherwise it's pot luck. Plug the distributor vac advance hole and the carb vac advance hole and set your initial timing at 15* - 16*. Move this up 'til you get ping under WOT with a warmed up car. Mine uses 20* very nicely. I am confident you find throttle response and drivability significantly improved.

Hope this make sense. It is very difficult to put stuff like this in print and say what you mean. My email is skelton3@cox.net if I can help in any way.

Good luck. Have fun.

thank for the very helpful reply. however you said to get one that's originally comes on a 2.8 v6. is this the ones that only has 240cfm? i'm asking because this is a daily driver and i would like this car to maximize the gas mileage. not performance, gas mileage. not performance, gas mileage.

with the clifford adapter, wouldn't it cause a problem because the carb bowl is on the driverside? from other post, they said it could stall on turns. what could prevent this?
The reason I suggested the one originally on the V6 is simply because the original jetting works well, i.e., this is the one I have and I didn't need to re-jet. I believe this is because the carb was set up for 2800 cc by the factory and our cars are 3300 cc. Quite close. However, this is not a major issue. These carbs can be easily re-jetted if needed.

The 26/27 Holley is most commom (270 cfm). Also, while I didn't mention this earlier (should have), the the later carbs, 1978 and up, had an electronic mixture control system. These are the ones that came in the lower flow versions (23/27 - 235 cfm and 23/29 - 245 cfm). These are not the ones you want, and Strovebolt won't sell you one, i.e., they only carry the 270. The cfm capability of the carb won't have much, if any, effect on mileage. It's progressive so it runs on the primary bbl only until you get 75% - 80% throttle. The original carb on your car had a 1.1 inch venturi (27mm) and flows approx 160 cfm. The primary on the 5200 is 26cc (1.04 inches) and probably flows about the same. So, keep your foot out of it and you'll be OK (bet you won't).

Regarding the orientation. Yes, the 5200 and the related Weber series should be mounted with the float bowl facing forward. The only way to do this with an adapter is to use the "gereric" type and retain the stock adapter / spacer also. This will give you hood clearence issues I have not heard anyone say they have found a fit for. The approach would be to remote the air cleaner and tube the carb. There would also be additional linkage issues, i.e., you would probably need to convert to the cable linkage used in the later cars (don't know when converted - about 1970 ??). All of which can be done, right. Why? The 5200 mounted with the float bowl facing the valve cover will hook to almost stock linkage and the fuel starvation problem can be easily corrected by adjusting the float. As a matter of fact, you may not even need to do this. I have seen a number of posts indicating the user never experienced this problem. I did, and it is an easy adjustment (nothing to buy).

You seem firm on the mileage goal. While a strong ignition system, as I discribed, is helpful in a performance mode, it would be equally valuable to you in the daily driver mode.

Good luck. Have fun.
Forgot to add a reference to a site I found that has a very nice comparison of the Clifford and the generic adapter. Check it out. Buy the way, don't let anyone tell you the adapter will choke off the flow of the carb. The area of the 1.5" manifold hole in your car is 1.7 sq. in. The total area of the Holley 5200, both bbl's open, is 1.7 sq. in. I'm not saying a direct fit wouldn't be better. Heck, porting would be better. I'm just saying that the flow of the adapter does not reduce the flow potential of the stock set up.


Again, have fun with this.
so the 2bbl swap won't really work that good with a original 66 dizzy? it's a rebuild 66 dizzy with pertronix ignition and it has pertronix coil.
Forgot to add a reference to a site I found that has a very nice comparison of the Clifford and the generic adapter. Check it out.

Thanks for the compliment. Guess I should submit this to Jack to be included in the Tech section. Afterall, that's what I put it together for.

The netrix.net is confusing, because my stuff is all at http://home.centurytel.net/fordfan/Falcon.htm. This must be a Centurytel mirror site because my entire site is duplicated there. :unsure: