All Small Six Decode this cam profile?

This relates to all small sixes

TucsonHooligan

Well-known member
Got a crate of 65 200 parts off Marketplace and this Crane cam came in the bunch. Looks to be brand new, but the only info that came with it was on the end flap of the box with this into (see pic). I did a search and the model number seems to be defunct. The coding isn't familiar to me, but I understand duration and lift and lobe separation, so there are some familiarities to it, but can someone give me the full info on this? Not sure if it's a performance part or just the stock grind. Thanks!
 

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Ill give it a go, looks to be 214degrees duration @0.050, 290degrees at lash, the other numbers are IMO only known to the maker. Those figures would make it a mild hydraulic cam, rpm range to about 5000rpm in a six. Will have some lope at idle. Definately considered a performance cam, about as much as you would want with an auto, it would need springs to match. Depends entirely on your application, with improved breathing and in a 4 speed manual, it would work nicely on the street. With a slushie, not so good.
 
Intake lobe .050” duration 214 degrees
Intake lobe lift .290”
LSA 112 degrees
 
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Perfect. Thanks guys! PMuller9, where did you get the 112 lobe separation from out of all that?
Cranes format is the last 1or 2 digits represents the LSA.
The last 2 digits are 12 which is 112 LSA.
A lot of cam companies use this same format.

Just guessing but Crane had a habit of adding 12 degrees for an exhaust duration on the inline six cams. Looking in the Crane lobe profile catalog that would be the 226/305 lobe in the same CCH2 series.
 
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So I degreed the cam twice and came out at 113 both times. Is this within operational range, or should I buy an adjustable timing kit to dial it closer? I'm not familiar enough with cam dialing to make a confident call on this. Thanks for the help!
 
So I degreed the cam twice and came out at 113 both times. Is this within operational range, or should I buy an adjustable timing kit to dial it closer? I'm not familiar enough with cam dialing to make a confident call on this. Thanks for the help!

I think it’s pretty standard for the small 6 to be out a few degrees when checking cam timing. The advice I got from the guys here is that if they lined up the dots on the Ford 200 and cam timing was correct, they’d assume they made a mistake in their measurements.

When I built my engine last year it came out to about +9.5 degrees on the cam timing when it was dot-2-dot. I used an adjustable timing set and at -8 degrees on the crank gear I was at about +0.75 degrees on the cam timing.

I’m not sure how easy it is to find the adjustable sets these days. I bought mine from Clay Smith and they show them in stock but I’ve seen them go out of stock from time to time: https://claysmithcams.com/product-id-jpp-200-drc-dual-roller-timing-chain-set-170-200ci/
 
So I degreed the cam twice and came out at 113 both times. Is this within operational range, or should I buy an adjustable timing kit to dial it closer? I'm not familiar enough with cam dialing to make a confident call on this. Thanks for the help!
If you're saying the intake valve centerline is 113* then the cam is 1* retarded from piston TDC. That's 5* later than the advertised specs.
Not a deal breaker, later valve timing will: increase mild lope at idle, reduce idle intake vacuum and raise the entire power band RPM by a couple hundred rpm.
 
The adjustable kits are abundant apparently. Worth buying one (150 bucks) to dial in that extra 4 degrees? Just trying to build a solid runner with daily driver/cruiser power so willing to drop some money.
 
The adjustable kits are abundant apparently. Worth buying one (150 bucks) to dial in that extra 4 degrees? Just trying to build a solid runner with daily driver/cruiser power so willing to drop some money.
It is not worth it. Just run it as is.
 
The adjustable kits are abundant apparently. Worth buying one (150 bucks) to dial in that extra 4 degrees? Just trying to build a solid runner with daily driver/cruiser power so willing to drop some money.
If your calculations show it's just 1 degree off then it's not worth getting a kit. Mine was off nearly +10 degrees so I bought the double roller adjustable kit. I think they're actually from Australia but I bought mine from Clay Smith. it's +/- 8° but it did cost about $150 when I bought it; they're more expensive by $10 or $12 now.

 
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The adjustable kits are abundant apparently. Worth buying one (150 bucks) to dial in that extra 4 degrees? Just trying to build a solid runner with daily driver/cruiser power so willing to drop some money.
echoing pmuller9- it will run great @-1* I have a fresh built 240 that has the performance cam @ -1* rather than +4*. It's a tire scorcher.
 
But isn't the suggestion to run these at +4 degrees, meaning I would be off by -5 like Frank said earlier? Or is that more for someone tuning a super-tight race motor?
 
But isn't the suggestion to run these at +4 degrees, meaning I would be off by -5 like Frank said earlier? Or is that more for someone tuning a super-tight race motor?
Earlier cam timing simply moves the entire range of the cam's breathing characteristics lower in the RPM band. The difference is not extreme @ 5* change, especially with a 112* LSA. Aftermarket cams all adding 4* is not an automatic standard. Every 240/300 engine the cam is retarded 4* from the factory, as is an early 60's car I have.
 
Question not related to this post title, but... does "departed member" under someone's name mean what I think it does, i.e., they passed away? I noticed under RBohm it had that marker. I didn't know him personally, but he lived in Tucson as well and we met a couple times to exchange Falcon parts. Not like we were close friends in any way, just wondering if that's, in fact, what happened to him.
 
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