Diff mounted alternator
- Thread starter gassed250
- Start date
Mustang Boy
Well-known member
seeing as it looks as though the nascar guys r running 9in there should be kit out there but like asa67_stang mentioned wut would be the use
hey
There are plenty of good reasons tidy the engine bay etc more weight over rear of car (drag racing).
And also you dont through belts of as much due to the alt not spinning at 10000rpm when your pull 7500rpm being the main advantage and a slight reduction in hp loss due to it not feeding off the engine as well.
havent seen a kit for them gassed but i imagen whould be to hard to make one up as your pretty handy with a welder and lathe.
mark
There are plenty of good reasons tidy the engine bay etc more weight over rear of car (drag racing).
And also you dont through belts of as much due to the alt not spinning at 10000rpm when your pull 7500rpm being the main advantage and a slight reduction in hp loss due to it not feeding off the engine as well.
havent seen a kit for them gassed but i imagen whould be to hard to make one up as your pretty handy with a welder and lathe.
mark
The diff alternator is actually a brilliant German idea from the European Touring Car Challenge, and was found on the 1973 BMW 3.0 CSL's. It was driven off either the drive shaft flange at the axle, or at the half shafts with a high 3:1 ratio. On an idependent rear suspension car where the diff is mounted to the chassis, very simple to do. No etra weight on the suspension, its a circle of plusses. Espeically on the BMW m-series six which had 24 valve heads on the racer versions, dry sump lubrication, and not enough room to swing a cockroach.
For our rear suspension system's, its a little bit narley.
Unsprung weight goes up on a live axle car, but its not major. It's just that on Frauds with BW/BTR 78's or 9 inchers, you have the two saddles that hold the unversal joints to the drive shaft, and the whole pully unit has to be plane to the axle, so I 'd say its a bit of a bee-iye-tee-cee-haitch to do. Very simple on a IRS VP-VY Commodore or IRS Falcon AU-BA, but a pain on a live axle.
On a live sprung car, drive it off the axle flange using a spacer off the drive cups. It's far easier on Toyota Hilux axles, or GM US diffs as there is a nice flat section where you can add a 19mm thick 37 to 45 degree pully of about 100 mm to drive the shaft speed up. Then you solid mount the alterantor to the pinion snubber on the Salibury or Banjo, smash the floor pan upwards and get rid of the mddle passenger in your Cortina or Falcon. You then have a 150 to 170 mm pulley to gear it up a little to get the device to cut in.
For our rear suspension system's, its a little bit narley.
Unsprung weight goes up on a live axle car, but its not major. It's just that on Frauds with BW/BTR 78's or 9 inchers, you have the two saddles that hold the unversal joints to the drive shaft, and the whole pully unit has to be plane to the axle, so I 'd say its a bit of a bee-iye-tee-cee-haitch to do. Very simple on a IRS VP-VY Commodore or IRS Falcon AU-BA, but a pain on a live axle.
On a live sprung car, drive it off the axle flange using a spacer off the drive cups. It's far easier on Toyota Hilux axles, or GM US diffs as there is a nice flat section where you can add a 19mm thick 37 to 45 degree pully of about 100 mm to drive the shaft speed up. Then you solid mount the alterantor to the pinion snubber on the Salibury or Banjo, smash the floor pan upwards and get rid of the mddle passenger in your Cortina or Falcon. You then have a 150 to 170 mm pulley to gear it up a little to get the device to cut in.
gassed250
Well-known member
Im running a 9" so I was thinking of removing the the drive yolk and pressing the pulley onto it
I can use the bolts that hold the pinion and the gear carier in to mount all the bracketry on
This is all in the planning process I will post pic's of it when I start making it
I can use the bolts that hold the pinion and the gear carier in to mount all the bracketry on
This is all in the planning process I will post pic's of it when I start making it
A
Anonymous
Guest
there would be the issue of the alternator only charging while your in drive.
not to mention it wouldnt charge toomuch in stop start driving.
thats why mostly racers and rodders do it . but if youve got a decent battery and keep it charged go for it. not too practical for some peoples uses.
jus my two bob.
not to mention it wouldnt charge toomuch in stop start driving.
thats why mostly racers and rodders do it . but if youve got a decent battery and keep it charged go for it. not too practical for some peoples uses.
jus my two bob.
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