discountautopepzone carb

[Mercury Mike]

Is it a bad idea to get a carb from like Kragen Auto? My carb is just really worn out, I've rebuilt it a couple of times... thinking about getting a rebuilt 1 barrel while I save up for the 2 bbl and adapter. I want to get my headers, adapter, 2 bbl, throttle cable, and all my upgrades together, and then spend a weekend or two and put them all on. I like big jumps. If I get one of these, can I just bolt it down, adjust it, and go? I'd really like to do that. I'll probably go back to the holley 1940 for now, until I can get an autolite 2100 on there. Thanks for you help!

 

[addo]

It's not too dubious. But I would suggest you keep a guitar and harmonica close by in case you need to play the "Bad Carb Blues".

Remember to pay the core charge and keep your old one.

The rebuilt from your store is essentially guaranteed to work right away- maybe not perfect, but acceptably. So if it doesn't, you should be able to exchange it. Check store policy before purchasing, however.

Also before you jump in, do a compression test on the warm motor - both with and without a dessertspoon of engine oil squirted into each cylinder. Write down the results and date.

Change one thing at a time and get the motor running well again. It may take longer, but will reduce the likelihood of reaching for that guitar and harp.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Yeah, it's about time for another compression check. I've got a couple written down. I don't know if you read any of my other posts about the thump thump thump in the engine I had, but my distributor gear was way out of whack, and I think that would cause it. New distributor, carburetor, and harmonic balancer this weekend. She should run like a top! =))) I'm looking forward to opening her throttle up again! Thanks for you help Addo, I'm glad you're on this site!

 

[Anonymous]

you could probably get a 2100 on ebay or somewhere and the adapter from summit for about the same it would cost you for one of the autozone ones

 

[HotRodLarry]

I bought two relplacement carbs for my Holley 1946 and they both had problems. I bought them through AutoZone and they worked great for a couple of weeks, then they woldnt run right, so I shipped them back and put my old carb back on. Car smokes a bit, but runs fine.

 

[ludwig]

Call me a spendthrift, but I haven't had a lick of trouble with my Pony Carb 1100. And they do a swap out with $100.00 core refund. But. hey it is money.

 

[jamyers]

I haven't seen an AutoPepWhatever carb in over 10 years that was worth a tinker's damn. The typical carb "remanufacture" seems to consists of a kinda-decent cleaning and a $5 carb kit that's installed by a knuckle-dragging brute who's cross-eyed. EVERY one I've seen lately has had to be completely gone through and had multiple stupid mistakes corrected.
Ok, I'll get off my soapbox now...

What's wrong with your carb? Pretty much the only thing that'll actually wear out is the throttle shaft bores, and you can get bronze bushings installed for about $50. Then put in a good carb kit and you're on your way, 3 times better than if you get a 'remanufactured' junker.

If you really think yours is toastand have the money, then I'd strongly suggest somebody like Pony carbs, with a good reputation.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Well... It's got a terrible hesitation (which I might have actually cleared up), just plain old. I am going to keep messing with it to see what I can get out of it. Also, no matter how many times I change the gasket, it leaks out of the main body gasket. I am gonna see what I can do to fix it and get a new balancer with the money I have. I'll post pictures of it and take a video of the hesitation.

 

[MustangSix]

The 1100 only has two permanent moving parts (throttle blade and choke). Everything else comes in the kit.

Where these carbs fail is in two categories: worn shaft openings and clogged/dirty passages. Occasionally you find one that has a bad idle mixture needle that was overtightened and bent. But otherwise they are easy to rejuvenate. Lots of carb cleaner and compressed air usually does it.

When rebuilding, pay attention to the accelerator pump check ball and the float level. Use a pice of piano wire or guitar string to clear the passages. blow with air (one of those computer air dusters works fine) and just follow the illustrated instructions. Not hard at all.

All that said, there are a lot of other things that can cause poor running that would seem to be a carb problem, but aren't. Hesitation could be caused by improper timing. A stuttering idle could be a leaky or burnt valve. A high speed miss could be weak ignition or a bad ignition component. In other words, test everything else first, before tearing into the carb.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Well I got my car up and running again, only problem is it runs great in park, but has no pull in drive, other than the pull from just the super fast idle. I can't adjust the idle at all, adjusting either idle screw does nothing. I set it to 12* base timing with the vacuum plugged, and then connected the idle to have the idle shoot up and still I was unable to adjust it. I also have a ticking somewhere now, which I've yet to locate. I think this carb is just shot shot shot. The screw turns all the way in and all the way out, and no change.

 

[MustangSix]

That sounds like a clogged idle fuel passage.

 

[Mercury Mike]

I guess I'll tear my carb down again..... hahaha =) I hit it all with a good blast of carb cleaner... could it be dirty already?

 

[MustangSix]

There could be some crap lodged in a passage. Guitar strings are great for rodding them out. Shooting them with carb cleaner sometimes just gets you a cleaner piece of stuck crap.