Distributor install - BAFFLED!!

[mcthirsty]

Trying to get a 200 six to run. Previous owner threw away old dizzy and just about everything else. Got a new reman dizzy from advance auto, new cap & rotor. It fits, looks just like the picture in the chiltons manual.

Question: At TDC, how should the rotor and points look? My understanding is that the rotor should be approaching the #1 spark wire socket in the cap and the points should just be getting ready to open. Is that correct or have I lost it?

Problem is, there is no way to get this dizzy, rotor and cap to line up like that. As the rotor approaches a socket on the cap the points are dead closed. They only open just AFTER the rotor has past the the socket. Its as if the distributor would was built to run counter clockwise instead of clockwise...

 

[ludwig]

Are you sure you have TDC or are you 180* out? The spark advance diaphragm should not be straight back. It should be a little closer to the block than straight back.

 

[80broncoman]

I've allways just stuck them in . period. Then when the enigine was on #1 TDC compression install the #1 wire so it lines up correctly with the rotor. then you procede in the normal rotation. 1-5-3-6-2-4

It has allways worked for me.

 

[mcthirsty]

Are you sure you have TDC or are you 180* out? The spark advance diaphragm should not be straight back. It should be a little closer to the block than straight back.

I think I had it 180 out earlier - backfired through the carb. Now it doesn't do anything except make some weak muffled sounds. I've never had such a hard time - even really out of time it should still run (poorly)

 

[Asa]

I've allways just stuck them in . period. Then when the enigine was on #1 TDC compression install the #1 wire so it lines up correctly with the rotor. then you procede in the normal rotation. 1-5-3-6-2-4

It has allways worked for me.

yup, this guy got it, try and get it in the general area and go from there

get someone to crank it and hook up a timing light to it, make sure that's setup correctly

 

[mcthirsty]

I understand lining up the rotor with the #1 spark plug wire - but my basic question is this:

As the rotor passes the #1 spark wire, should the points be open or closed?? I would think they should be open, but on this distributor, they are closed. Only when the rotor is in between spark wires are the points open. I swear either this distributor is made wrong or the cap is wrong or the rotor is wrong. SOMETHING is wrong b/c you cannot make the rotor line up with a plug wire with the points open.

 

[80broncoman]

I understand lining up the rotor with the #1 spark plug wire - but my basic question is this:

As the rotor passes the #1 spark wire, should the points be open or closed?? I would think they should be open, but on this distributor, they are closed. Only when the rotor is in between spark wires are the points open. I swear either this distributor is made wrong or the cap is wrong or the rotor is wrong. SOMETHING is wrong b/c you cannot make the rotor line up with a plug wire with the points open.

The timing plate as the vacuum advace pulls it around is going to change the timeing of when the points open and close, so unless the vacuume advance canister is jammed up some way Or someone has screwed the points down to the wrong holes I Can't see how you could have a problem with this.

 

[bubba22349]

I understand lining up the rotor with the #1 spark plug wire - but my basic question is this:

As the rotor passes the #1 spark wire, should the points be open or closed?? I would think they should be open, but on this distributor, they are closed. Only when the rotor is in between spark wires are the points open. I swear either this distributor is made wrong or the cap is wrong or the rotor is wrong. SOMETHING is wrong b/c you cannot make the rotor line up with a plug wire with the points open.

The Points are open before rotor gets to #1 not after You might be one tooth off when you installed distrib.

 

[fordconvert]

What part of the world are you in? Maybe there is another member not far from you that has their motor apart or an extra dizzy that could be swapped in for testing. Its not impossible for a modern reman part to be wrong or screwed up.

 

[mcthirsty]

I'm in Houston, TX. If anyone would be willing to sell me a used loadomatic that will fit a 200 - please let me know. I'm convinced the cam on this distributor is ground or pressed on out of phase. This company seems to be the only one that makes these, since all the auto parts stores carry the same one.

Also, what is a "ballast resistor" and do I need one? The coil I got from NAPA says "use with external resistor" on the side, and I see a ballast resistor listed under the ignition parts section online for a '66 mustang.

 

[80broncoman]

I'm in Houston, TX. If anyone would be willing to sell me a used loadomatic that will fit a 200 - please let me know. I'm convinced the cam on this distributor is ground or pressed on out of phase. This company seems to be the only one that makes these, since all the auto parts stores carry the same one.

Also, what is a "ballast resistor" and do I need one? The coil I got from NAPA says "use with external resistor" on the side, and I see a ballast resistor listed under the ignition parts section online for a '66 mustang.

The gears on cams are cut without any kind of timing at all. the teeth are not lined up with anything. I'd bet dist gears are exactly the same way.
Since you had points to begin with I'm sure in your wiring to the stock coil there was a resistor in the circuit somewhere.

 

[64falconsix]

there should already be an inline resistor in factory wiring. it is there to reduce the voltage coming into the ignition points to reduce point wear. while cranking the ignition draws full voltage then reduced voltage (iicrc) about 7 or 8 volts when the key is in the run position.

 

[ludwig]

The resistor is in place. It is the 'pink wire' behind the dash. If you hook everything up stock, you have the resistor. If you are running a Pertronix, you can bypass the pink wire for a full 12 V at the coil.

 

[mcthirsty]

I should have mentioned this engine is not in a car - its on an engine stand. I have absolutely no stock wiring to compare it to. It's not going back into a mustang, its going into another car (30's vintage racer replica type deal).

I have some pics i'd like to post to show what I'm talking about - how do you do that? I don't see any button to attach pictures.

 

[Asa]

we aren't setup for attaching images here, but you can upload them at www.imageshack.us or at www.photobucket.com

 

[JackFish]

Imageshack sucks, don't use it.

 

[Asa]

i've never had a problem with it, what's the issue?

 

[mcthirsty]

Ok, I FINALLY got it to run. When all else fails...rebuild the carb. Runs great now. Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[Asa]

well you know what they say, if you think it's an ignition issue, look at the carb
if you think it's a fuel issue, look at the ignition system

 

[bubba22349]

I should have mentioned this engine is not in a car - its on an engine stand. I have absolutely no stock wiring to compare it to. It's not going back into a mustang, its going into another car (30's vintage racer replica type deal).

Simple ignition wiring for a test stand, mounted on plywood or sheet metal. Ford solenoid, simple key switch or (a toggle switch and push button), and an ignition resistor from a 12 v system drop volts to 6 to 8 (example you can get one for a 1957 Ford). Wire start position of switch or the push button to sol, S term. Wire run position of key or the toggle sw to one side of the ignition resistor. Run wire from other side of the resistor to coil post. Run second wire to same coil post to sol. I term. Battery pos to sol. Other side sol to starter etc. don’t forget to ground to a clean area on block. That should get it to run. If you need to hock up a gen or alternator then need to know what parts you have to work with.