Does my timing chain need replacing? (Sprockets too?)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Should I change my chain and sprockets?

  • Yes - All

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Yes - Chain Only

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 0 0.0%

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    0
  • Poll closed .
A

Anonymous

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Can someone take a look at these images and tell me if I need to replace these? (or just parts of it?) I have a 250 I-6.

If I do need to replace.. where can I get the chain and/or sprockets from?

Thanks in advance


1.JPG

2.JPG

3.JPG
 
looks fine to me...if u replace anything, replace it all, buy it as a kit, thats the best way to go. might wanna measure that slack for us....any automotive parts store will be able to sell timing chain/gear sets. Depending how much you want to fork out you can get timing gears that dont require a chain (seen these but not sure if they have em for six's) or get the dual chain setup....slack looks good to me but if its more than 1/2 inch then u gotta replace it...looks good to me though....
 
Is that the Oz 250? You need a Rollmaster CS6-188-250 or JP's equivalent - double roller chain and sprocket set. The US set Mike has is 2 links too short. Economy airmail on a timing set is about AUD$37, the set itself is AUD$120 or so.

Adam.
 
Yea since u got the cover off and all that i would spentd the extra bucks and buy a new set (especially if you were thinking about it already) i took my cover off to inspect mine but didnt have the excess money to buy a nice gear and chain set so i just put it back together (it was perfectly fine and in no need of repair) but in the future i plan on putting in a heavyduty timing set along with a new cam....

Junk-Falcon: what nylon, those gears are solid cast iron (or something metal anyways)
 
Replace it if you can. Unlike the V8's, the sixes don't have fibre gears.

The US 250 is different to the Oz 250. The Americans upgraded the chain, sprocket and crank snout to stop it snapping under load, while the Aussie 250 used carry-over 200 bits with a longer chain.

The Oz 188-221 has a cam spaced out further than the US 200, which is where the extra two links come in Adam.

The Oz 250 non cross-flow is similar to the US 200, but is likely to be enven further out from the crank to cam. Its about 4.5", not 4.25" as in the 144-170-200.
 
From memory, the XR-XF Falcon motors all used the same timing set, with the possible exception of the XR 170. The "smallback" motors prior on the Falcons here, probably use the US spec set. For that matter, they probably use a US bellhousing pattern...
 
Yeah, the cross-flows carry a different part number on the catalogues I've seen.

The Oz 188-221's are taller and have a different chain, as the part number for the Morse cahin is different. One catalogue, the Bowden one listed below has the 221 I6 with the same part number as the ZA/ZB 289 V8...Duoh!!!

The Bowden pdf file notes that the 188-221 I6's run the same Morse chain as the ZA/ZB Fairlane/LTD. See page 3 of 4 http://www.bowdenengineparts.co.nz/pdf/BETIM01N.pdf

There are two listings for the 250. The last one is the cross-flow timing chain, which can be fitted to the non cross-flow if the timing gear is changed.

Splitting hairs again, but the pre XP stuff was American style, the XP was the one to get the Borg Warner auto, BW diff and stuff, wasn't it?.
 
Thread-hopping almost, but here we go (it's still vaguely topical :wink: )

The BW auto came in with the XP, had that same Oz bell pattern that stayed up to 1987, but ran an adaptor plate with the "smallback" 200. I believe that 200, and the 170 maybe (who knows about the 144?) were basically locally cast and machined to US spec. The sump is narrower, which leads me to conclude they most probably used the US spec timing set.

The last XPs overlapped with the XRs and carried a full XR engine/box, possibly with some US-style adaptors for the later tranny mounts. The diffs changed (I think to a stronger unit) in 63, from what I've read, but not sue if the strength was gained inside or outside.

The sources I checked carried (listed) the same chain/gears for a 250 crossflow as a 221 block. And the pan gasket for a 221 is the same as an XR 200! I haven't measured to be 100% - why make it close but different? That wouldn't figure...

Ah well, I can't wade in / mouth off much more without measuring.

Adam.
 
Back on topic. Personally, if you have the engine out, and have the ability to change it out now, I would, especially if you don't know anything about when that one was put in.

GO with a set. While I was at it, consider a better cam. Comp Cams offers entire kits, including timing chain kits.

Slade
 
Ok.. I guess I'll take the advice to go ahead and change the timing chain and gears. Since I don't actually have the engine out of the car, I'll probably have to skip on the cam right now.. but, in about a year, I'll have the engine out of the car with the head off (when my 2V head gets here from New Zealand).

In any case, I went to comp cams, and found this page:

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Catal ... 59-363.asp

They don't seem to list the Ford 250 I6.. if I am reading that right, and didn't miss it, can I use the 144-200 set?
 
Yeah.. it's the whole deal .. Aussie block and head.

So.. a set made for the US 250 won't work on my engine?
 
Unfortunatly no. The cam to crank distance is slightly different and the Oz 250 has a smaller crank snout so the US250 crank gear doesn't fit.

You need to get one of these:
timingchain.JPG
 
How Ironic.. I just got off the phone with "American Auto Parts" in Australia, from America, to order and Australian auto part for an Australian car in America... It unfolds like a mobius strip all around me...

BTW, I didn't think to order one of those oil seals for the timing cover.. will an American one fit?
 
that is all really loose, it shouldnt be like that. I just got my new long block and its tight. There shouldent be any slop at all in that chain.
 
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