doesn't want to stop

[CobraSix]

10-12* BTDC will be helpful. If you've been running retarded timing, that will also help your heat situation once you reset your timing. Do that first and then see how warm your car runs.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Wow! What a difference a new rad cap makes! I couldn't even sit at a light without sweating a little thinking "over heating here would be bad", now the needle barely moves, I dropped from a 16lb cap to a 13lb, I may not even install the new t-stat.

I have to get some work done before the wife sells my car but I'll be sure to get on your advise cobra, thanks

 

[66Monterey]

Take a second look at the boot on the timing light...this one looks like it takes the place of the #1 plug wire on the distributor...

Odd way of doing it, since the engine would miss with one cylinder not firing...

"a little clamp on the end of the blue wire..."
Don't mind me, I'm blind as a bat! [/quote]

 

[Anonymous]

I've read in the manual that I may have to remove my vaccuum hose, do I? And what does BTDC, TDC, ATDC mean?

AND! If that's not enough ... if I remember correctly there is a bolt or nut that I loosen off to change my timing, I have an autolight 1100, I turn it counter clockwise to "retard" ?

 

[Anonymous]

That was in my head for another post what I would like to know is where is this nut / bolt I'm to loosen on my distributor in order to turn it.

Without removing any vaccuum hoses or anything like that the reading that I "think" I got was "6 TDC"? Does that sound correct?