doing a little research for my build, turbo or blower?

teggy87

Well-known member
once i get this thing running right.. i plan on implementing some FORCED INDUCTION!!!

i have been reading a bit and it seems the turbo set ups are endless. i really dont like turboes just because they seem so entangled in all those hoses.. but how do they compare to a blower? gas mileage for instance?

which one gets you more hp for your dollar?

i like what little i have been able to see on the eaton m90, but what kinda psi does this thing put out?

im looking for something i can run on factory internals with low psi (2-3) for a little while. and eventually i want to do a full rebuild and try and run maybe a 20 psi blow through set up.

right now i have an immaculate autolite 1100 carb.. is this sufficient for forced induction? would it handle 20 psi blow through?

whats all the talk about this paxton SC, it seems like junk is it better than the eaton?

how do either of these compare to a turbo set up?

blow through seems best, am i wrong? wouldnt anything else be destructive?
 
For starters you might want to tell us what engine and what vehicle it'll be going into.

In general:
Positive displacement blowers like the Eaton, Whipple , etc. maintain a constant boost throughout the RPM range.
Centrifugal blowers like the Paxton build progressively more boost as RPM increases
Turbochargers supply boost in response to throttle opening regardless of engine RPM.
There is no "best" it all depends on the application.
 
68 2 door fairlane 9" rear end, C4 tranny, 200 cid original engine.

does anyone know if it is hard to run across a copper head gasket for this engine? and what would the best piston rings be?
 
teggy87":1nlrqlql said:
68 2 door fairlane 9" rear end, C4 tranny, 200 cid original engine.

does anyone know if it is hard to run across a copper head gasket for this engine? and what would the best piston rings be?

Classic Inlines sells the copper head gasket.

http://www.classicinlines.com/proddetai ... SP-200-CHG

Copper head gasket in and of itself is more expensive than any other head gasket available for the 200. I think mine was about $150.

The copper head gasket is about as close to blow proof as you can get. If you use Permatex "Right Stuff" gasket material aka "manna from heaven" (j/k) then its just about leak proof. Does 10's can attest to its righteous sealing ability on his and his wife's 10 second turbocharged 250 Falcon.

You will also need to get the block or head O-ringed to insure a proper seal. I paid $15 for O-ring wire and machinist charged IIRC $50 to cut the block.

I also went with ARP head studs. IMHO on a turbo motor this is cheap insurance and the studs help locate the head gasket and head when installing.

Best piston rings is yet to be determined. I am getting chrome rings with mine. Moly can flake off the rings under detonation so I went with chrome which was recommended by the piston manufacturer.

I am building my engine to try and be ready for a worst case scenario. I have seen several tales of blown head gasket after blown head gasket and boiling the tops of cast pistons with a turbo so I decided to play it safe and try and make it indestructible.

Probably overkill on a street engine but with the kind of luck of the draw that I have I prefer to stack the deck in my favor.
 
see thats how i think!!! ;) but alot of people say.. " it doesnt matter how strong you make it.. it'll just make it break some where else if you push it too hard!" i guess like saying you only as strong as you weakest link.. in the end though.. i think your only worry will be blowing a hole in the block..
 
StrangeRanger":202yrk0h said:
For starters you might want to tell us what engine and what vehicle it'll be going into.

(snip)

There is no "best" it all depends on the application.

That is the bottom line right there. Each type of forced induction has distinct benefits and drawbacks. Knowing what the engine, vehicle, and goals are will make it much easier to recommend the "best" option for the application.
 
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