draft tube to pcv conversion

I would like to convert my 1962 comet 144cid from draft tube ventilation to pcv.
If i?
plug the draft tube
drill and grommet the valve cover to fit a pcv valve
or just get a new valve cover with pcv hole
drill a hole in the air cleaner
and hook the two together
i heard it maybe best to filter through the air filter than manifold vacuum
any thought or ideas would be appreciated
 
plug the draft tube

Yes, or you could also remove it and plug the block off with a freeze plug for a cleaner look.

drill and grommet the valve cover to fit a pcv valve
or just get a new valve cover with pcv hole

Yes, both will work of the two using the later valve cover with factory PCV hole that will also have the baffles inside this is the best way.

drill a hole in the air cleaner
and hook the two together
i heard it maybe best to filter through the air filter than manifold vacuum

No that would cause a big vacuum leak. To work correctly the PCV hose needs to go too the base of carb, or an adapter plate under the carb, or to the manifold. If you use a breather cap that has a hose fitting it than goes too the air cleaner for a closed type system. Hope that helps you good luck
 
Welcome "62 Comet"!!! ( I really like the 1st 3 yrs body style).
Cool,
OK,
so 2 hoses?
1) from valve cover to carb base (frnt of vc)
other
2) from AC to another VC grommet (back of VC)?
I'm tryin to remember what I saw 40 yrs ago & I was not/am not now a mechanic...
:D

(It'd be best to have a VC w/the baffel in it for oil splash?)

Thanks, sorry to belabor the point (we need a "stickie" or "tech article archive").
 
The opening for the pcv valve needs to be baffled and properly placed so drilling a hole is not the best idea . Also do not bother to adapt the road draft tube , just remove it and close the opening with a freeze plug . Don't discard the valve cover or draft tube - persons doing 100% restorations often want those . Used OEM "pcv" style covers are not too hard to find but there is a risk that the flange could be be hard to straighten enough to get a good seal . I'd offer my old cover but I'm not sure of the flange on it . My '63 1/2 Falcon had an "open" pcv system when I got it . The only real difference between "open" or "closed" is a connection to the air cleaner from the vent cap makes it "closed" . On the original cover , the pcv valve was placed at the rear with a push-on type "open vented" cap up front . I replaced the valve cover with a chrome one from an Ebay seller . The front opening was designed for a twist-on cap [I used one with a tube to connect to an adapter on the air cleaner] and the rear opening was sized for a pcv valve . A pcv valve of the proper specification should not be hard to find - just ask for one for a '63 Falcon 144 [Comet sometimes doesn't look up properly] - it appears to be the same one for 144 , 170 or 200 and shows in stock at my nearby Auto Zone and O'Reilly . I have been using the earlier ['60-'61] Holley 1904 type carb with this pcv system for about 3 years/20,000 miles and have had no problem with idle quality/speed or lean mixtures . It should only require minor mixture/speed adjustments . There should be a tapped hole in the adapter that fits between the carburetor and the manifold . You would need a hose fitting to run some hose around to the pcv valve and maybe an elbow to connect the hose to the valve . An alternative would be to make up a steel line to hook it up if you are comfortable with bending tubing .
 
From my own archive (a post right on this forum) stated pretty clearly:

"best PVC system is the closed type. This is were the PVC valve is at rear of valve cover and hooked up to the carb base if it has hose fitting there or by adding a plate type fitting below carb etc. The oil cap should be at the opposite end of valve cover (edit: front) and would also need to have a hose fitting than run a hose to the bottom air cleaner this should keep everything clean inside and work correctly. "

'bottom of air cleaner" just means "inside' the filtering element's "circle of influence"
You could do all that moding yerself. You need to buy the freeze plug, pvc valve, hoses, grommets, clamps, make up a sheet metal baffel, and figure out how to make a tight fiting where U remove a cap to replace oil when adding to the crank case. Or go part/all oem.
 
thanks for all the tips.
this is what i did over the weekend

removed draft tube and put a pcv grommet and pcv valve in the draft hole. ran a 3/8 fuel line from that to a factory tap in the manifold
just below the carb.
running smooth as ever

get an oil separation filter for that 3/8 line ????
 
i have a question,,the pcv valve is it a must to put it on the base plate
of the carb.? i got it halfe way the carb. before was the vaccuum hose
combined with the brakebooster and my pcv valve,but it was reducing
the brake pressure. now i split it again and my brakes are working great.
the vaccuum hose for the booster is connect to the manifold.

first picture how it was before.

and the next is how it is at the moment.


greetz JD.
 
Hi JD, the best way is to hook up the PCV to the base of the carb if it has the tube (3/8) for it. The early carbs did not have it so they had to make accessory adapter plates to bolt in under the carb, that is also a good way to hook up the PCV. If the rear carb has a hook up that would be a short run or use the center carb. Your right the Power brake booster should have a direct line (no taps) all the way to the intake manifold to work correctly. Good luck :thumbup:
 
thanks bubba,,
the power booster is working good now i have a direct line
to the intake manifold.
but i can t the line from the pcv valve connect to the midcarb.
but the rearcarb. got a connection tube my question is, is this
oke,,?? watch the yellow Arrow thats the the tube where i want
connect the line from the pcv hose.



thank you again bubba,,,greetz,,JD.
 
JD, that small (1/8) inch vacuum line tap is a ported for the distributor or smog system, its not going to work for a PCV line these are 3 times larger diameter (3/8) inch. I am not sure what that would be in MM.
 
oke bubba i know what you mean,
can i make it split by the yellow Arrow close to the
intake manifold when this is not possible have you
a suggestion?



greetz,,JD
 
JD if you use a vacuum T fitting there at the manifold (Yellow Arrow) that probably is not going to work very well. This is the way my 77 250 Maverick is setup has factory power brakes the manifold T has separate line for power brakes another fitting for a vacuum tree on the firewall this feeds the trans and vacuum lines for the body controls AC etc. (also there is a vacuum canister installed). Mine has the same carb like you are using below carb is a plate that the PCV and EGR connect into. This is just below the throttle blade of the carb and it's the ideal location to hook up the PCV line. Would you be able to drill and tap for a 1/4 inch pipe fitting into the tri power adapter it would depend if you have enough height? Is that where your PCV is located at the rear of engine? Good Luck, Bob
 
goodmorning bob its 8 a clock now here.



on this photo you can see on the back of the valve cover the pvc and on
the front that is open on the bottum. its now clear for me i gonna make
a connection to the midcarb. on the base plate. thank you for youre
explenation.

greetz..JD
 
Good morning JD, it's 1:47 AM here in So. Calif., you have done such great job on the detail work on your car I enjoy seeing all the pictures of it :thumbup: glad to be able to help you. Take care :nod:
 
"...a PCV as OEM..."

IIRC I see 2 steel lines, 3 soft, and the fuel line. U said " '61" and "California". I believe that was the first yr/state. What are all those lines (same Q I had back then, seemed like alot of stuff - no wonder they call it "plumbing" now).

I think another line (seen in the background) went from the frnt of the VC into the air cleaner (AC). And it was "inside" the AC paper filter element to p/u 'cleaned' air... The back of the VC had a breather on it w/a filter in it as well.
 
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