Duraspark Help

[blaze65]

Looking for some help with a Duraspark install. Have a engine just back from the shop and the old dist was already out when it came back. Shop has #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing marks on the crank are all aligned. I have a new CI duraspark and I was thinking it would just drop in place but so far no luck. The new Dist is very snug but I think I can get it to go down but I do not want to force it. I've read that the rotor needs to be pointed at the # 1 wire and as there are no wires I am using the #1 spark plug as reference. I cannot get the Dist to fall in unless I move the rotor towards the front of the engine. When I do this the rotor starts to turn counter clockwise slightly as the Dist moves down. At this point the Dist again is snug and still has to go down about 1 inch but it feels like I could force/ push it down.

Trying to figure out if I am on the right track here.

Also, When they say the rotor points to #1, which end of the rotor. I assume it is the end with the contact, the more pointed end but different internet blogs show pictures of the reverse.

Many thanks

 

[spikeomatic]

you will want the front brass tip of the rotor to point at no.1 on the cap look in a chillton or motors manual if you your cap doesnt have a 1 on it. when you drop in the dizzy you have to take into account that it will spiral in and have to plan ahead so it falls right were you want it. maybe have to set it ahead of the 1 a little bit .remember that you can always rotate the dizzy a little bit to dial it it once it is running .if it will not drop in you might have to take of the oil pan and adjust the oil pump a little so the dizzy isn't binding. if they put your bottom end together without a dizzy in there it might be a little off.hope this helps

 

[wsa111]

I have also seen where it is necessary to sand down the diameter of the housing where it fits into the block due to binding.
You probably will just have to rotate the oil pump hex drive so it will engage into the distributor shaft. Bill

 

[blaze65]

Will try both ideas. Would it be OK to put a wrench on the front crank bolt and just move it back and forth to see if the DIST will drop in ? The timing marks are all aligned and I would not move the crank a lot, i'm just wondering if I move things back and forth a little if things will fall in place ?

 

[170-3tree]

Start with the first reply option. When lookin at the distributor from the drivers side of the engine compartment, it should be pointed at more of a 4-5oclock position. So away from the engine completely.

And yes after you get it in that area, there still might be a binding issue. But pull out a manual and see where one is on the cap, put it on, and align to where it is on that point.

 

[rbohm]

8) what year block are you working with? pre 1964 blocks used a smaller distributor shaft than the later blocks did. they also used a smaller oil pump drive shaft as well.

 

[blaze65]

This is a 68 block. I was not getting this install at all and ended up calling CI. I was taking the idea of 'point the rotor at #1' , literally as the dist had to go in so that the rotor tip was pointed at the # 1 cylinder and no where else. He mentioned that the rotor can really point anywhere as long as the #1 Plug / Tip on the cap is over that point/Tip on the rotor and to make sure I am on the compression stroke at TDC. (thanks Mike)

This is a bare motor with no wires so I will get the Dist in and just make sure that the rotor is aligned with the #1 tip on the cap and then wire from there clockwise in the correct firing order.

 

[blaze65]

Too Funny (not really) . This is going from bad to worse. Had the Distributor in and did not feel like the rotor was directly under the point/contact on the cap. SO I wanted to remove the Dist and see If I could move the rotor one or two teeth on the gear. The Dist was in snug. When I pulled it out, the hex shaft from the oil pump came out with the Dist and then fell back into the opening and then down into the bottom of the oil pan, I assume.

Any advice or do I just drop the oil pan ? once I do can I just put the hex rod back down the dist opening into the pump ??

 

[wsa111]

Too Funny (not really) . This is going from bad to worse. Had the Distributor in and did not feel like the rotor was directly under the point/contact on the cap. SO I wanted to remove the Dist and see If I could move the rotor one or two teeth on the gear. The Dist was in snug. When I pulled it out, the hex shaft from the oil pump came out with the Dist and then fell back into the opening and then down into the bottom of the oil pan, I assume.

Any advice or do I just drop the oil pan ? once I do can I just put the hex rod back down the dist opening into the pump ??

Man what bad luck.
Before you drop the pan go in with a magnet & you should be able to retrieve the hex oil pump shaft.
When you get it out make sure the hex shaft goes into the distributor shaft without binding & sticking in the shaft.
If you have to drop the pan, install a press on retainer on the hex shaft just below the hole in the block casting so the shaft is limited in its vertical travel, thus will not come out when you pull the distributor in the future. Best of luck cause you sure are snake bitten with a misfortune. Bill

 

[blaze65]

Tried a magnet but trying to sneak it by the distributor / oil pump housing is almost impossible. The magnet attaches to every little piece of metal. I did latch on to it once but then it hit something and fell off. Kept trying but eventually broke my magnet. (Outside of the engine, not while it was in the engine.) It's late and getting frustrated will not help. Best to walk away from it for tonight. Will get another magnet and try again in the morning. Will try not to drop the oil pan if I can help it.

Why does that hex rod come out anyway , does it just float in that housing or should it have been anchored at the bottom end.

Thanks for the help and advice. more to follow

 

[turbo2256b]

There is susposed to be like an internal star washer of sorts that should have been installed on the oil pump drive shaft between the oil pump and the block. This limits its upwards travel so it wont pull out.

 

[blaze65]

I was wondering that. Be checking posts on the net and this seems to be a quite common problem from all the posts I found. Some people try to fish them out, some drop the oil pan, some just leave them there and buy a new oil pump drive shaft. I also just got this engine back from the shop and I found several posts that referenced builders taking short cuts and not putting that clip in place. Guess I could call the builder in the morning but not sure what good that will do.

 

[spikeomatic]

just drop the pan it is not that big of a deal,then you can make sure the oil pump is in the right local without binding.

 

[jimlj66]

You can get a magnet at NAPA (at least the local one has them) that will not stick to anything on the side. It makes it easy to go in and get something without it sticking to everything on the way. They are about $20, not the cheap things most of us are used to.

As Mike told you, it don't matter how you drop your distributor in. Just make sure you have room to turn it without the vacuum advance hitting anything when setting your timing. When you put the distributor cap on, note where the rotor is pointing with #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. When you install the cap and wires, start with #1 over the rotor and install the rest in the proper firing order from there. You can then rotate the distributor housing to get the cap/wires where you want in relation to the rotor. That is all you are doing when you set timing with a timing light.

 

[blaze65]

well things are looking up. Was able to get the Oil pump shaft out using a magnet. ( Many thanks to all for your advice) There is no slot or lip on that shaft and I assume that is this type of shaft does not have a clip to hold it in place. It must just sit in place.

Was also able to finally get the the dist in place. Had the rotor point at the #1 plug but that puts the wire way to close to the plug. Moved the dist around and now have the #1 tip on the cap at about the 7 o'clock position. Will wire the cap in sequence from there. This puts # 2 spot on the cap a little close to the #2 spark close but not as close as the #1 had been earlier and it looks manageable.

Can't thank everyone enough for the help and this forum. Would be lost without it.

Bill

 

[bubba22349]

There is no slot or lip on that shaft and I assume that is this type of shaft does not have a clip to hold it in place. It must just sit in place.

The pump drive shaft won't have a slot or lip on it just uses a slide on washer (internal locking) maybe it's laying in the bottom of the oil pan. To reinstall it right you would need to drop the pan, but it will certainly function without the lock washer. Sounds like your making very good progress.

 

[wsa111]

Great job done, patience paid off in the end.
If you ever have the pan off, get a retainer clip-washer to install on the hex shaft.
As for now, enjoy mission accomplished. Bill

 

[blaze65]

Thanks all and thanks again for the help. Now onto the next task on the list. I am sure many more posts will follow.