Eaton 90 not running

[Anonymous]

All,

Thanks for the condolences. Should've put a rev limiter on her. Didn't know boost would make it rev so dadgum fast.

There is a crack in the block, center just below the freeze plugs.

Man I was set-up for the track season, car shows and cruising for the summer now I'll just be getting dirty, greasy and sweaty.

Oh well you can still learn from your experiences even at 47 years of age.

I still have the original C8 block I'll take it to the machine shop and have them rework it. The machine shop at work can't do engine work they don't have the correct machines. The engine machine shop wants to take the blown motor apart to see what caused the problem. I didn't ask them to warranty anything because they knew I was pushing it to the limit.

I hope I didn't screw up the head too bad.

I think I'll build it back naturally aspriated with whatever parts I can salvage from the blown motor.

Austin, (my son) hasn't been very diligent with the web site, something about college, girls and his Honda Civic. I'll see if I can figure out how to get the pics posted.

Thanks again for all the help you guys have been with my project. Looks like I'll need a bunch more so don't go away.

Bob

 

[addo]

We can forgive your son two of those three distractions.

Head should be fine. Sounds like a rod let go, and that was that.

What about a blown 250 this time?

 

[FAR OUT]

Bob,
Glad to see you're going to rebuild but why not keep the eaton blower. All the hard work is done and would you really be happy with just normal asperation?

Dale

 

[Anonymous]

YA dont let this little hickup stop your forced induction dreams. ok you are out a little cash but just learn from your misstakes and keep on chuggin little buddie!

 

[Anonymous]

You'll drive it as NA for about 5 minutes before you decide you want boost again!!

Get that rev limiter....

 

[Funky Cricket]

you already built it, just put it back together, but maybe with a rev limiter this time. it was a cool cool setup (NEED PICS! ) don't let a thing like a blown motor ruin it.

You put alot of time and hard work into a very original car. what ever you choose it is ultimately up to you, but I would vote for putting it right back where it was, just with maybe a rev limiter and maybe a bypass valve to let off a bit of excess boost.

 

[Anonymous]

You guys are probably right the first time I hit it in second and it didn't break the wheels loose I would be POed that I didn't have boost.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Addo-I located a 70 model 250 from a Fairlane. A fellow I know bought the car for a parts car, but it has been a daily driver. He has offered me the complete drive train for 150 bucks. It has a C4 and an eight inch rear.

I think the rear is too wide for my 68 and I don't want auto but the motor should work shouldn't it?

What would be involved in going to a 250?
Would my 68 bell work?
Would my T-5 still work?
Flywheel?
Starter?
Motor Mounts?

I know Mraley's head will bolt right up if it's not damaged. I may have to play with the M-90 mount if the engine is bigger. I have a fiberglass cowl hood for my car so that should take care of the deck height/hood clearance issues.


So many questions. I'm starting to get excited again. Blown 250, V-8 t-5 and the 9" rear and the front spindles out of the Lincoln with 4 wheel discs brakes.

I don't want my car to be a quarter mile runner but more of a canyon road racer type. That's why I beefed my suspension. It did handle nice. I like the manual tranny because I love boxing the gears and driving the backroads. That's also why I went with a supercharger rather than a turbo. Turbos just don't feel right to me when I'm running the roads. I know they definetly produce more power are more effecient.

If I just wanted to run it in the quarter I would go turbo and auto trans.

So can I make the 250 work in my 68. I have the standard 6 coils with a turn and a half cut out. It rides and handles really nice with the 200.

Can I make a T-5 work?

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

Can I make a T-5 work?

Sure can - a 250 and a 302 use the same bellhousing.
You can't use the 302 flywheel, though (different balance).

 

[addo]

With the 157 tooth flywheel (off a 300-6 or aftermarket zero balance), 302/T-5 bell combo, there is the option of a regular 302 starter, or one of the aftermarket reduction-geared permanent magnet type. You could reuse flywheel bolts if you bought the ARP ones last time.

I doubt your old clutch would fit, but maybe. 302s are so well catered for, a good clutch will be found readily and there is not the balance issue present with the flywheel.

Mounts - '69 250 mounts should work. A radiator will have larger in and out fittings due to them being upsized on the 250. Front clearance should be snug but OK. Carb linkage will probably reflect your choice of carb.

That's all the externals. For the internals of the motor, hypereutectic pistons if lightly boosted, ARP rod bolts, prepped rods. I'd use a regular oil pump making sure that the cover and gears weren't overly worn.

Chamber cc will influence what you choose in pistons. The possibility exists of using Aussie "long 200" rods, or one of the local four-banger rod sets may remove some of the excess deck height.

For the cam timing: Az is yet to release a US 250 timing set to match the 200. Two options are the three-keyway set (Cloyes?) or possibly milling the crank snout and re-keying. That would enable running the regular 9 keyway Aussie 250 timing set - and possibly Oz timing cover.

Headers - It depends how close they are to the firewall and floorpan. The extra height may cause them to interfere a little, then again they may not. It's a little bit trial-and-error.

Hope this answers some of the questions!

Regards, Adam.