A
Anonymous
Guest
Guys I know it's been awhile since I've posted but I've been busy.
I can't wait to share the news though.
I've mounted an Eaton off the Thunderbird V-6 on a bracket mounted where my power steering pump used to mount. I'm running the air thru an intercooler mounted in front of the radiator, the inlet and outlet tubes are on the same side of the intercooler. So it goes from the blower to the lower tube and from the upper tube into a Holley 350 direct mount carb. I have an idler arm set-up salvaged from an old air conditioner bracket to hopefully prevent the belts from flying off. I'm using two v belts to the blower. My machine shop made the pulleys for the idler arm and the blower. I'm hoping for 10 pounds of boost, based on the pulley size.
I'm using a red holley electric fuel pump and an MSD timing boost controller to prevent ping. I plan to start with 1degree per pound of boost retard but it goes up to three if I have to have it.
My block is 0 decked, with forged pistons and the original forged rods shot peened. The lower end has been rotationally balanced.
A 264/274 cam and clifford headers. 2" dual exhaust with Dyno Max turbo mufflers exiting thru GT dual exhaust tips.
I'm using the head that Marley sold me. A ported polished 250 head with the big SS valves. With the composit head gasket I figure 9.5 compression ratio.
I finished the install last night and fired it up. I've already run the motor N/A for cam break-in. I haven't driven yet it with the supercharger , it was like 3 o'clock in the morning when I finished but I can't wait. It ran real good N/A tho, I drove it that way for a couple of weeks.
I completed the T-5 install this fall but I think I may have to go to a V-8 T-5 now instead of the 4 banger. The suspension package is in. Complete kit from Laurel Mountain Mustang. I bought the standard 6 cyl kit, with a 1" front and .750" rear sway bar. Midolene bushings. I cut one and half coils from the front springs and put 1" lower blocks on the rear. I only cut one coil first and had to take it back apart to cut the other half to get the stance I wanted. I also did the Shelby Drop. With the export brace, monte carlo bar, KGB shocks, Shelby under traction bars, and new BF Goodrich radial GTs it sticks hard in the corners.
I have brand new everything on the stock brakes but I need to upgrade, just not enough stopping power. And I think the 7.25 rear will have to go. I never hook up with both rear tires like some have said, my right always breaks free.
I have a date in Baltimore to dyno this weekend to complete the tune and I'll let you guys know how it comes out. Taking a complete holley jet kit and a selection of power valves with me. I don't have any special advance curve on the Dura spark it's a new one from the Zone.
Pic's and dyno numbers to come.
Bob
I can't wait to share the news though.
I've mounted an Eaton off the Thunderbird V-6 on a bracket mounted where my power steering pump used to mount. I'm running the air thru an intercooler mounted in front of the radiator, the inlet and outlet tubes are on the same side of the intercooler. So it goes from the blower to the lower tube and from the upper tube into a Holley 350 direct mount carb. I have an idler arm set-up salvaged from an old air conditioner bracket to hopefully prevent the belts from flying off. I'm using two v belts to the blower. My machine shop made the pulleys for the idler arm and the blower. I'm hoping for 10 pounds of boost, based on the pulley size.
I'm using a red holley electric fuel pump and an MSD timing boost controller to prevent ping. I plan to start with 1degree per pound of boost retard but it goes up to three if I have to have it.
My block is 0 decked, with forged pistons and the original forged rods shot peened. The lower end has been rotationally balanced.
A 264/274 cam and clifford headers. 2" dual exhaust with Dyno Max turbo mufflers exiting thru GT dual exhaust tips.
I'm using the head that Marley sold me. A ported polished 250 head with the big SS valves. With the composit head gasket I figure 9.5 compression ratio.
I finished the install last night and fired it up. I've already run the motor N/A for cam break-in. I haven't driven yet it with the supercharger , it was like 3 o'clock in the morning when I finished but I can't wait. It ran real good N/A tho, I drove it that way for a couple of weeks.
I completed the T-5 install this fall but I think I may have to go to a V-8 T-5 now instead of the 4 banger. The suspension package is in. Complete kit from Laurel Mountain Mustang. I bought the standard 6 cyl kit, with a 1" front and .750" rear sway bar. Midolene bushings. I cut one and half coils from the front springs and put 1" lower blocks on the rear. I only cut one coil first and had to take it back apart to cut the other half to get the stance I wanted. I also did the Shelby Drop. With the export brace, monte carlo bar, KGB shocks, Shelby under traction bars, and new BF Goodrich radial GTs it sticks hard in the corners.
I have brand new everything on the stock brakes but I need to upgrade, just not enough stopping power. And I think the 7.25 rear will have to go. I never hook up with both rear tires like some have said, my right always breaks free.
I have a date in Baltimore to dyno this weekend to complete the tune and I'll let you guys know how it comes out. Taking a complete holley jet kit and a selection of power valves with me. I don't have any special advance curve on the Dura spark it's a new one from the Zone.
Pic's and dyno numbers to come.
Bob
Bill
