Economical 200 Hop Up

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Hi, it's Andy from Canada again. I got the 65 Mustang running with a carb rebuild kit! Now I'm pumped. Okay I still need brakes and front signal lights but there comming. My question is how can I do an economical 200 build? I want to swap intake, head and carb to a 250 but what year do I use? Could someone recommend a camlifter combo and a manufacturer? Also would a header do me some good or could I just use a 250 header as I have heard they will help with exhaust flow? It's a c-4 with 2.83 gears. Thanks for any help, Andy
 
for the lifters and stuff I'd say ford six performance parts is the way to go :D
 
The Fairmont 200 engines (1978-82 models) have the 250 head on the 200 engine (called a 3.3L engine, then). You may wish to mill the head, as the combustion chamber's volume is larger on the later head, which would lower the compression a lot if you just bolted it on.

The Granada series Fords had the 250 in many of them: the intake tract has a larger volume on these heads, in many cases. This does not seem to make a lot of difference in performance, unless you plan on doing the mod where you flatten the intake manifold and make it into a 2bbl carb, like a 2100. See CZLN6's "Falcon Performance Handbook" for details about this stuff: that book is worth every penny!

The "quick fix", low-cost upgrades I like are "junkyard upgrades", where you can add things like DuraSpark distributors, better 1bbl carbs (I like high MPG performance) and clutched cooling fans, to reduce hi-RPM drag (if you have a "flex fan" now, this will help).

If you have the engine apart, deck the block at least .030" so that the "head gasket bug" doesn't bite you, adjust the head volume for 9.2 or so compression ratio, and check with Mustang Geezer about cams and lifters.

If you only work on the head, look into the 1.6 ratio rocker arms (not cheap), smooth out intake tracts and raise the exhaust ports as far as your exhaust manifold will let you. Replace the old hydraulic lifters with the newer type that have a spring inside of them (and less leakage, for more lift). Get the famous "exhaust port divider" and weld it in, it's worth the effort.

Above all, have a ball! These engines are among the most forgiving I've ever had the good fortune to work with, still running good with even the grossest of errors applied!
 
Howdy Andy:

I can tell you're having way too much fun. Mark and the others have given you good advice, but let me add my 2 cents.

1st start with a plan and a budget. Be realistic. What do you want when you finish? What can you afford.?

Now to the real world- Please read and reread the sticky at the top of this forum for details on the head swap you inquired about. Know that the 200 and 250 heads are viturually identical after about '75. The biggest difference at that point is the CFM of the carbs between the two.

I am not aware of any difference in exhaust manifolds between the 200 and 250s, but the exhaust system pipes inner diameter is 2" on 250 as opposed to 1 7/8" on 200 vehicles. If you're sticking to a cast exhaust manifold, an upgrade to a 2" exhaust system with a quality turbo muffler is a nice improvement. Headers are much more expensive and living in Alberta, you'll want them coated to prevent rust and corrosion damage. More money. When it comes to performance they make a difference. They make the biggest difference at higher rpms- say a 3,000 and up, which means a performance cam and related components.

BUT, with a 2.83:1 rear gear set and a C4, you will be somewhat unhappy with the improvement. Changing to a 3.00 or 3.25 rear gear set will be one of the biggest performance boosters you can do, and will make all other improvements more dramatic.

Most important- Enjoy the trip!

Adios, David
 
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