All Small Six 144 to a later model 200 swap in a 62 falcon

[78_200_C4]

The manifold is rigid. It can work and not leak even with a missing bolt.
Put a flat washer on the bolt that goes on the cracked ear.
Fill the crack with anti-seize so you don't see it.
From what I have read if you braze or weld it and it cracks it won't be the braze or weld that cracks it will be next to it.
I had to put a long bolt in the rear dip stick tube then grab it with vice grips. It was tighter than hell.
You won't know if the oil pickup for the shorter 1/4" drive oil pump will work until you try to install the oil pan.
The 144 and the 5/16" drive oil pump 200's don't use the same oil pickup.
The oil screen may sit directly on the bottom of the pan or worse.
One guy "Mark" gave up on his 78 200 install in his daughters car when he couldn't get the oil pan on.
It was the last straw. He had a running older 200 that he installed.
I think he was too cheap to buy a 65 200 oil pump pickup for a job he was doing for free.

 

[chad]

need the 3 / 4 siamesed exh. port divider re-welded @ same time?
I like it correct for gasket support. W/o it they can blow right there.

 

[mark***71852]

Deleted because it posted before I was ready.

 

[mark***71852]

Waiting on my oil pump (melling M65B) and pickup tube (BS65) , in my mind, and just the way I tend to do things, I just can't see not doing some preventative maintenance while the engine is on the stand, so I ordered a felpro rear main seal, (BS-30135) Amazon had it in stock, I'm likely going to change out the timing set, I don't really know anything about this particular engine except that "it was running when I pulled it" in my mind I'm debating on swapping in a new head gasket. I understand the old saying of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but I also understand "an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure." It's all readily accessible to me right now and I would much rather touch everything now than later. All that said. If I install a felpro head gasket, am I borrowing trouble because of the thickness difference of the original type? I know this has likely been addressed, because I've read several different views on it at different places online.
Knowing that all I'm trying to build is a good solid reliable engine, if i do the head gasket replacement am I likely going to have issues from the thickness?

 

[bubba22349]

So the Melling M65B is the right Oil Pump for the 1965 to 1977 Ford 170 & 200 Six's used in the Falcon's, Fairlanes, Comet's, Maverick's & Mustang Chassis as well as some others. The Melling part number for the correct Oil Pump Pick Up Tube is 65-BS.

 

[mark***71852]

So the Melling M65B is the right Oil Pump for the 1965 to 1977 Ford 170 & 200 Six's used in the falcon's Comet's & Mustang Chassis. The Melling part number for the correct Oil Pump Pick Up Tube is 65-BS.

Yes sir, that posted before I was ready (fat fingers) I corrected it with the following post.

 

[mark***71852]

need the 3 / 4 siamesed exh. port divider re-welded @ same time?
I like it correct for gasket support. W/o it they can blow right thethere

Chad, I'm not overly familiar with this particular engine, I've read alot, but this is in fact my first of this platform to work on. I'm understanding, I think, by what the exhaust port divider is, so I'd need to take my block to a welding shop to have it welded. But what do i ask them to do?

 

[bubba22349]

If your opening up the Engine to reseal it and want to change out the stock Timing Chain set than its better to use one of the 1965 to 1968 Timing Chain and Gear sets this would move the CamShaft Timing to straight up instead of retard'ed for Emissions purposes of the 1969 to 1978 small six engines. Yes if you change the Head Gasket to the newer FelPro its much thicker and requires a .025 Mill Cut to the head fix that part or Mill the Block Deck (better to go to a Zero Deck Piston Height) better still is to Mill Head and or Block Deck together you can go even more so you can bring the Compression Ratio back to the 1965 to 1968 200 engine Spec's. You can go to as much as 9.2 to 1 C.R. at Sea Level elevations and still run on Reg. Fuel. Also note that none of the current gasket sets will contain a Neoprene Rear Main Seal they only come with a rope seals now. There is only one source for these Neoprene Rear Main Seals if you want one of those. If the head is off than would be a good time to do a good 3 angle Valve Job and back cut the valves, plus fresh Valve stem seals too. Best of luck on the refreshing.

 

[mark***71852]

If your opening up the Engine to reseal it and want to change out the stock Timing Chain set than its better to use one of the 1965 to 1968 Timing Chain and Gear sets this would move the CamShaft Timing to straight up instead of retard'ed for Emissions purposes of the 1969 to 1978 small six engines. Yes if you change the Head Gasket to the newer FelPro its much thicker and requires a .025 Mill Cut to the head fix that part or Mill the Block Deck (better to go to a Zero Deck Piston Height) better still is to Mill Head and or Block Deck together you can go even more so you can bring the Compression Ratio back to the 1965 to 1968 200 engine Spec's. You can go to as much as 9.2 to 1 C.R. at Sea Level elevations and still run on Reg. Fuel. Also note that none of the current gasket sets will contain a Neoprene Rear Main Seal they only come with a rope seals now. There is only one source for these Neoprene Rear Main Seals if you want one of those.

That's what I was afraid of, I'm just not wanting to go that far with it... or atleast I don't think I do. I've got some things to decide on I guess. As much as I hate to "just let it bump" that may be the end result with the head gasket.

I'm hoping the rear main seal I ordered is the 2 piece rubber, I'm not gonna install a rope style, I'll order one from best gasket if tge one from Amazon isn't right.

I appreciate the tip on the Timing set, I can see it now, and it doesn't seem to have much slack, so I'm not overly worried about it, I think the tolerance I read was pretty big...I don't wanna quote the number from memory but it's not got much slack, on other engines in my past I've seen more.

 

[bubba22349]

The 1965 to 1968 Timing Chain and Gear set with it's better Timing specs is a direct swap into the later engine so it's not any harder to do than replacing the stock one and the cost shouldn't be any different it may be even cheaper to me it would be a win win. I always look at these type things as opportunity's to make them better, but I do understand not wanting to go into to much work.

 

[mark***71852]

The 1965 to 1968 Timing Chain and Gear set with it's better Timing specs is a direct swap into the later engine so it's not any harder to do than replacing the stock one and the cost shouldn't be any different it may be even cheaper to me it would be a win win. I always look at these type things as opportunity's to make them better, but I do understand not wanting to go into to much work.

Yes sir, I do agree. It's a money think as much as anything.

 

[Frank]

Yes sir, I do agree. It's a money think as much as anything.

It seems the cost of the timing chain set will pay back in better economy and power with the cam moved up out of the emissions-era-doldrums. . .

 

[mark***71852]

It seems the cost of the timing chain set will pay back in better economy and power with the cam moved up out of the emissions-era-doldrums. . .

Oh I agree on it, they are highly affordable IMO. In fact I'm about to order one tonight. The expense I was referring to is having the head milled. I'm atleast an hour away from anyone with that capability.

 

[chad]

I must B the cheapest here (@ 12K$ yr) & I do these things as 'having an open
engine' & just as much as 'gross' & 'net' theres savings to B had otherwise unavailable !
(may B better analogy: 'cash dwn now & benefits of interest'n time')?

Chad, I'm not overly familiar with this particular engine, I've read alot, but this is in fact my first of this platform to work on. I'm understanding, I think, by what the exhaust port divider is, so I'd need to take my block to a welding shop to have it welded. But what do i ask them to do?

I posted #42 back when reading @ #11& 13 - the pic of corroded divider (in head'n exhaust mani). It inserted it way up here when pushing the post-now button. Anyway, just another expense. U may wish to over look it too. If not inquire further w/ur consultant/shop man

 

[mark***71852]

I must B the cheapest here (@ 12K$ yr) & I do these things as 'having an open
engine' & just as much as 'gross' & 'net' theres savings to B had otherwise unavailable !
(may B better analogy: 'cash dwn now & benefits of interest'n time')?


I posted #42 back when reading @ #11& 13 - the pic of corroded divider (in head'n exhaust mani). It inserted it way up here when pushing the post-now button. Anyway, just another expense. U may wish to over look it too. If not inquire further w/ur consultant/shop man

I fully understand, and I don't disagree.

I set the manifold with the blowout on the shelf, and pulled the one from. My 144 to be used. A bit smaller diameter, but I'm thinking it will work for what I've got going.

 

[mark***71852]

Slept on it, and I'm just not going to be happy if I do everything else to this engine I'm wanting to do and NOT touch the head. So talked to a very reputable engine building machine shop that has a focus on automotive ,Best Engines in Nash, Texas they immediately knew what I was needing when I told them about needing the head milled for the thicker head gasket, so next week I'm taking the head for a valve job and to be milled. I can't justify in my mind going this distance and not doing the head. I've been in this exact place just a few months back with a 4.0 I went through in a jeep I have, was only going to replace a few things....a complete rebuild later I'd replaced those few things and more. At any rate, I'll touch back in a few weeks when it is done. Thanks so much for everyone help thus far, I've spent hours combing through this forum and have gotten so many answered questions, many of you long timers cannot fathom the wealth of knowledge you've offered to others THANKS!

 

[chad]

again, B4 final decisions'n disassembly (measure as U go so as to guide machine shop's work)

Classic Inlines

AND

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK | Vintage Inlines

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook has 107 pages of History, Facts, and Information to help you get more power out of your small Ford SIX. This engine was used in Falcons, Mustangs, Fairlaines, and Comets in the 60’s. It was the FoMoCo workhorse in Mavericks, Granadas, and...

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These 6 motors are not like any other (nor are they like this one, vice versa).

Have fun, as w/the 250/258 - research is the 1st bit of wrk, middle, and end.
Matching THAT to APPLICATION (end goal) is the design stage. U still have
decisions to make~

 

[chad]

Do U no what -some/all/any- of them are?
Where to start?
A quick 'once thru' the 2 above resources can take U far on that endeavor.

Asa kid I had no money. My buds all had muscle cars (this wuz the '50s - late 60s) and
I had none. A local junk had a plethora of 50s'n 60 Italian "jewels" (they really were - lill tiny
colorful shinny rare beauties). A few yrs earlier @ 13 y/o a coach had gotten me to take home a
Lambretta 125 w/stuck piston. My dad had shown me how to tie the frnt wheel up in garage rafter
so the boar sat up right. He mixed some chit (atf, cutting oil, MM, paint thinner, etc) together'n showed
me how to pour some in the open spark plug hole every few days. Soon we turned the crank (starting lever)
& it moved now. I hada few days to get it back so I removed head, cleaned up some stuff, re-assembled and
pronounced me-self a mechanic ! (far from correct). 3, 4 yr later I remembered and began to peruse "Goldies" as
I could afford a wreck. Over the nxt 10 yrs I DID become something ofa mechanic "restoring" (well getting to run a
gain) 50/60s fiats, alfas, lancias & 1 or 2 brit vehicles (for DD, untill selling for the nxt lill jewel that caught my eye/I just
hada have instead.'72, away @ college, I went thru 2 or 3 slanties (dart and valiant wagons) to get one that took me to every
perimeter state in these here incredible u states of a. Out of the wrenchin hobby/necessity a decade ('83 - '93) I missed the efi
and 'puter change over in cars BUT got into these 'falcon' motors (ThriftPower in ford lingo) when needin a 4WD for some of the
jobs I'd found. I had shade tree experience but needed the above 2 resources - Just to Know What Questions to Ask. After these two
I can say i am now officially a Shade Tree Mechanic 1st Class. I need a hi-scol auto-shop text to understand their ele and esp sensor/puter
systems... May B someday I'll get to them. Too busy right now. Sorry, I'm so long winded. BUT - my suggestions are not done with out merit.

I'd say the very 1st is "What octane will I run the vehicle on?"

 

[chad]

2nd might B-
"What RPM range will the motor spend 80% of it's time at?"

( mine? 1 - 2.5K RPMs.
utttt, ut, ut O on post #58: 81 C₈H₁₈
or "Da Cheep stuff" )

Enjoy, AND
Keep talkin ***71852*** !

 

[mark***71852]

Machine shop called and said that my head has a crack so before I go on a hunt for a replacement head for the 200. I have a head from a 144....I know it has the small log, and I hate that, but for my application, would it be doable? Not trying to build a horsepower Machine, just a drivable car. Trust me not the route I want to go, but coming up with options. For what it's worth, I think the head on the 144 was from a 170, and I know it has adjustable rockers. It's currently mounted to the 1962 model 144 that was in my falcon. My 200 is a 1978 from a fairmont....none of that may mean anything but so that I can tell you all what I'm working with. Any advice?