ef-el
- Thread starter xt falcon
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Pa pa is bang on if hes talking about a BW auto (1963 to 1984). Mines done 250 000 km under adverse conditions, but I've done every darn thing the service manual suggests. The XF and EA ones, with another part number, were much better. The BTR autos, the 4-speed overdrives, are bullet proof.
Things like 15 000 km fluid replacement in hilly conditions, the set-up of bands and kickdown cable at regular intervals cost more than a trans rebuild! Plus the fact that the kickdown mechanisim is the most sensitve to mal-adjustment than any auto box known to man!
Ford deserve a big spank for expecting people to service them like that. They never are, so they break.
Things like 15 000 km fluid replacement in hilly conditions, the set-up of bands and kickdown cable at regular intervals cost more than a trans rebuild! Plus the fact that the kickdown mechanisim is the most sensitve to mal-adjustment than any auto box known to man!
Ford deserve a big spank for expecting people to service them like that. They never are, so they break.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Be very careful buying EF/ELs,
The engines are very suseptable to blown head gaskets. This is caracturized by coolant leaking down the right side of the engine.
Engine oil leaks are expensive to correctly repair and seem to be frequent.
Intake manifolds loosen up and cause rough idling and persitant coolant leaks from the upper radiator hose connection are frequent.
tTransmissions have been covered. Body rust is also something that has thrown some cars off the road in a short time.
Look at the inner sills and around the boot opening and from the boot up into the rear/D pillars.
Try that for now,
Noel.
The engines are very suseptable to blown head gaskets. This is caracturized by coolant leaking down the right side of the engine.
Engine oil leaks are expensive to correctly repair and seem to be frequent.
Intake manifolds loosen up and cause rough idling and persitant coolant leaks from the upper radiator hose connection are frequent.
tTransmissions have been covered. Body rust is also something that has thrown some cars off the road in a short time.
Look at the inner sills and around the boot opening and from the boot up into the rear/D pillars.
Try that for now,
Noel.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Ford OHC engines are prone to blowing head gaskets ONLY due to poorly maintained cooling systems. The Very first of the EA's had bad heads, but these have been taken off the road. The reason for the head gasket blowing is NOT due to it being an Alloy head on cast iron block. Ford failed to effectively flush the casting sand out of the engines from factory. The sand builds up in the side tanks of the radiator which causes over heating due to lack of sufficient coolant and dissipation. The 4 speed Autos were a little stronger in the EF/EL ( pathetic in the EA ) but they require to be nursed, well maintained and its best to fit a trans cooler if it does not have one already.
EF/EL is a great choice for a comfortable, reliable car, but the AU is even better if you can get passed its looks, they both go for roughly the same money these days
Most OHC 6's are mistreated and misunderstood. They need regular Coolant changes ( no bore water, straight water or mixed coolants ) the radiator should be flushed every 6 months and the side tanks should be cleaned out annually. The thermostat should be replaced every 6 months as well. The radiator hose leaks are caused by the plastic side tanks becomig brittle with age, so they should be replaced every 4-5 years also ( very cheap )
EF/EL is a great choice for a comfortable, reliable car, but the AU is even better if you can get passed its looks, they both go for roughly the same money these days
Most OHC 6's are mistreated and misunderstood. They need regular Coolant changes ( no bore water, straight water or mixed coolants ) the radiator should be flushed every 6 months and the side tanks should be cleaned out annually. The thermostat should be replaced every 6 months as well. The radiator hose leaks are caused by the plastic side tanks becomig brittle with age, so they should be replaced every 4-5 years also ( very cheap )
A
Anonymous
Guest
That was very informative sixa but also the EF?EL engines are prone to breaking cylinder head bolts. It doesnt matter if the cooling system is serviced every time the car is serviced.
I have seen and done many of these engines and it is a bugger to tell someone that it is common and will cost $700/900 even when the car is properly serviced.
It all comes down to luck of the draw.
P.S. if you own one of these pull the rocker cover every service and look at the exhaust side head bolts.
It is usually the second or third one in from the front.
Noel.
I have seen and done many of these engines and it is a bugger to tell someone that it is common and will cost $700/900 even when the car is properly serviced.
It all comes down to luck of the draw.
P.S. if you own one of these pull the rocker cover every service and look at the exhaust side head bolts.
It is usually the second or third one in from the front.
Noel.
A
Anonymous
Guest
yeah I do agree with the cylinder head bolts, I have been told that fitting AU2 head bolts is preferrable as the originals are prone to stretching and becoming fatigued much earlier in their life.
A
Anonymous
Guest
With the EF/EL's its kind of hard to put a price on them, there are so many things which come into play...however with the falcons it seems to be - Pay more for less kilometres
You can buy EL's with around 75,000- 90,000k's for roughly $15,000
I have seen EL's with 150,000k's + going for high $11,000
Ex Cabs are considerably less...EF's can go for as little as $8000 depending on K's also.
Very hard to say...but I do suggest buying privately as the dealers warranties dont usaully cover cooling system probs anyway
I like the way you thinik ( AU Front Cut ) the only drama you will have besides the wiring, is the AU's used a different sump..I am not sure whether the sumps are interchangeable though....if they are its simply a matter of fitting the EL's sump and pickup to the AU's block...for some reason I dont see it being quite this easy...it never is
You can buy EL's with around 75,000- 90,000k's for roughly $15,000
I have seen EL's with 150,000k's + going for high $11,000
Ex Cabs are considerably less...EF's can go for as little as $8000 depending on K's also.
Very hard to say...but I do suggest buying privately as the dealers warranties dont usaully cover cooling system probs anyway
I like the way you thinik ( AU Front Cut ) the only drama you will have besides the wiring, is the AU's used a different sump..I am not sure whether the sumps are interchangeable though....if they are its simply a matter of fitting the EL's sump and pickup to the AU's block...for some reason I dont see it being quite this easy...it never is
A
Anonymous
Guest
AU<=>E-series sumps are not interchangeable. Cast AU sumps have cross-bolted mains through the sump.
If I was to do it I would swap over the whole front sub-assembly (alloy cross member, engine, front suspension, sway bars, the lot). Unbolt from AU donor car then with a few simple mods to E-series frame rails (relocate/add/remove pins/studs/bolts) it should all bolt straight in. The pickup for the upper A-arm and coil/shock strut are all unchanged. Bring it across complete with motor, plumbing and wiring and install from underneath just like they do at the factory.
If I was to do it I would swap over the whole front sub-assembly (alloy cross member, engine, front suspension, sway bars, the lot). Unbolt from AU donor car then with a few simple mods to E-series frame rails (relocate/add/remove pins/studs/bolts) it should all bolt straight in. The pickup for the upper A-arm and coil/shock strut are all unchanged. Bring it across complete with motor, plumbing and wiring and install from underneath just like they do at the factory.
Ok I work for a company maintaining a fleet of 50 EF?EL cabs, they do on average 15000km every 5 weeks.
We service our transmissions (BTR95 and 97) every 60000km, which only includes suction screen and filter, we regularly get 500000km from them!
The donks will go 8-900000km before they stuff up, but the cabs are usually sold befor that, the majority of problems we get are cooling system leaks/overheating, this is in Perth in summer (38c).Othe problem, which we only consider maintenance issues are water pumps, harmonic balancers (they come appart) thermostats (non factory) starters, alternators.
Other thatn that there pretty relaible an long lived.
Consider that they do 700km every day, and start and stop 50 times a day, try that in a family sedan.
Personaly I thing this is incredible service from what is ostensibly an ordinary family sedan on LPG.
I own a 90 EA MPEFI with BTR85, which I only use as family transport, its been quite reliable and has only had head off once due to Perth batery acid water in the cooling systyem.
A7M
We service our transmissions (BTR95 and 97) every 60000km, which only includes suction screen and filter, we regularly get 500000km from them!
The donks will go 8-900000km before they stuff up, but the cabs are usually sold befor that, the majority of problems we get are cooling system leaks/overheating, this is in Perth in summer (38c).Othe problem, which we only consider maintenance issues are water pumps, harmonic balancers (they come appart) thermostats (non factory) starters, alternators.
Other thatn that there pretty relaible an long lived.
Consider that they do 700km every day, and start and stop 50 times a day, try that in a family sedan.
Personaly I thing this is incredible service from what is ostensibly an ordinary family sedan on LPG.
I own a 90 EA MPEFI with BTR85, which I only use as family transport, its been quite reliable and has only had head off once due to Perth batery acid water in the cooling systyem.
A7M
A
Anonymous
Guest
The bolt breaking problem has been speculated by many people far more qualified than I but no clear answer has been arrived at.
The original bolts were stretch bolts that like all stretch bolts were to be measured before reusing but many did not make reuse.
All the problem cars that I have seen have been family run around type cars. Not high mileage units. A car of any brand will last considerably longer if when warmed up is run for along time once warm.
This has always been the case.
Personally I hate travelling in taxi's. Usually the ride is terrible from worn out suspension and poorly running engines.t this is usually accompanied but some of the worst noises engines can make.
But if the start drive them to the next fare!!!!!!
But I digress, The head bolt problem seems to be rectified with the fit of AU bolts coz these are different.
The swap to AU in an EF/L would be simplest by unbolting the crossmember and swapping the lot. Suspesion and all.
The AU was technically the best Ford has produced but it dint sell.
THis is long for me, but I am passionate about the fabulous Fords built in this country.
Noel.
The original bolts were stretch bolts that like all stretch bolts were to be measured before reusing but many did not make reuse.
All the problem cars that I have seen have been family run around type cars. Not high mileage units. A car of any brand will last considerably longer if when warmed up is run for along time once warm.
This has always been the case.
Personally I hate travelling in taxi's. Usually the ride is terrible from worn out suspension and poorly running engines.t this is usually accompanied but some of the worst noises engines can make.
But if the start drive them to the next fare!!!!!!
But I digress, The head bolt problem seems to be rectified with the fit of AU bolts coz these are different.
The swap to AU in an EF/L would be simplest by unbolting the crossmember and swapping the lot. Suspesion and all.
The AU was technically the best Ford has produced but it dint sell.
THis is long for me, but I am passionate about the fabulous Fords built in this country.
Noel.
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