Engine Swap, almost done!

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
Got a couple more questions. I will be putting the engine and trans together tomorrow, and might be putting it in. We'll see.

I ran into a couple of problems though:

My DSII dizzy was too fat to fit down in the hole. I have taken off some of the material, and it will slide down in there, but I'm not sure how far. Is the O-ring supposed to be visible, or down inside the block?

I tried to take the fan off, and I removed the 4 bolts, but it still won't come off. I tugged and tugged, but nothing. Am I missing something?

I temporarily solved the problem with my carburetor (5200). I modified the TRD-2025 from Summit by using bigger slots for the wider bolt pattern of the 1970 head. The couple problems I'm having is, 1) it's not parallel to the front, and 2) the original stock linkage won't work.

So, I bought a cable linkage from a Maverick or something. That didn't work out as well as I had hoped, because the pedal was ridiculously hard to get to line up on the firewall and still move. I think I'll just fab something up out of the original, unless you guys have any other options. I'll still somehow incorporate the cable linkage as well.
 
Do you have the oil pump drive shaft fitted? :shock:

If so, then to get the distributor home you have to wiggle the crank back and forth a little by grabbing the balancer. It will help "index" the hex shaft to the distributor.

The fan might be corroded on?
 
8) are you doing a pre 64 engine? if so then you have a problem. you may get the dist to fit, but you will have to change the oil pump and driveshaft from 1/4" to 5/16" to fit the dist shaft.

as for the o ring question, no you should not be able to see the o ring with the dist installed.
 
turbo_fairlane_200":109mguh3 said:
wrong on the pre 64 block....

the inner hole ont eh block for the shaft is ALSO smaller.....

he has already compensated for that.
 
Sorry guys, I should have put a lot more info in here:

It's a brand new engine, so I doubt it's corroded on there. Somehow though...

The block is a 66, but the head is a 1970 (which doesn't make a difference really). I ground it down some, but I'm going to give it another whirl tomorrow when it gets a little warmer

edit:
slightly retarted action: I may have pulled a big no-no. I was sittin in bed about to fall asleep when it clicked in my head, I shouldn't have used a metal file on that distributor shaft - that could probably de-magnetize it. Well, I guess I've got to check that tomorrow and see too.
 
What?

First of all, the distributor shaft isn't magnetized... and has no reason to be.

Secondly, I can see no good reason why using a metal file on something magnetized would cause it to cease to be.

Lastly, I don't think it is clear to us where you are having a problem. Is the distributor body too large in diameter to fit down inside the block?

Or is the shaft not fitting on something?

The only magnetic part in the whole deal is the reluctor wheel, which sits at the top and shouldn't require any sort of modification.

It is a bit tricky to get the distribor to seat down the entire way, because you have to line it up w/ the oil pump drive shaft as well as the cam drive gear. If you are setting it in and it's going down almost all the way and stopping, this is probably what is happening. Lift it up a little, turn the rotor a few degrees, and stab again. It can be very frustrating. Sometimes you really have to push on it.

If you have a '66 block and are using a DSII, Everything should it. I wouldn't go filing or sanding anything.

Just keep stabbing....
 
Oh alright - I get ya about the magnet stuff..


As far as fitting - it definitely didn't fit down into the block when I got it. I measured it with the calipers, and I forget how much exactly, but it was larger than the hole in the block. So, I sanded it down, and it fits, but barely. It's very tough to push it into the block. I need to sand it down just a smidgen more before it's ready.
 
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