engine temp

BTW, that link is the very first one there "posting e-bay links". Shows you two methods.
 
As it's simple and doesn't hurt to check (non-invasive) I would urge testing compression in all cylinders. The symptoms described, are also possibly indicative of a leaky head gasket.

If you do this test, run the engine up to operating temps first, then work quickly through all six cylinders taking notes as you go. Don't forget to remove the coil negative wire first, and (ever so lightly) jam the throttle plate open.

Cheers, Adam.
 
What Addo said. Also--for a leaking gasket or cracked head--I've found that removing the radiator cap, and blipping the throttle, resulted in coolant shooting out the filler. This is a result of the high pressure exhaust gasses going into the cooling system.
 
ok got new rad today autozone direct replacement, with more cooling capacity, 3 row, the rad is thicker than the one i took out not enough room for fan by about a half inch is there another spacer i can use or is it the wrong rad, thanks
 
engineer36":1iadosm3 said:
..... i live in central florida very humid, after 30 miles of hard driving shut car off coolant boils over to catch can, after cooling goes back to radiator, no coolant loss, is this normal.....

This is perfectly normal operation; all of my engines that are equipped with overflow tanks are run completely full to the very top, when the engines warms up the coolant expands into the burp tank and when it cools down the coolant automatically siphons back into the radiator exactly as it was designed.

Engines that do not have burp tanks are run with the coolant a bit low in the tank.

Even though it is distressing to we mortals, your cooling system cares not one whit about the humidity.
Joe
 
update, thanks for all the replys, new rad, thinner spacer, new mech gauge tested in boiling water, engine flush, drove 70 cruising speed at 70 temp no higher than 170, ideling 190, no issues, again thanks for all the suggestions.
 
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