Vin Man":1hzauatb said:
Stock dizzy won't work with the HW 5200. Go with the DS II and GM HEI Module.
Engine Upgrade
- Thread starter Vin Man
- Start date
Stock dizzy won't work with the HW 5200. Go with the DS II and GM HEI Module.
Vin Man
Famous Member
BIGREDRASA":3f298g6h said:
Thanks. If I am learning my acronyms right, the DS II is the DuraSpark II system mentioned on page 23 of the Falcon Six Performance Handbook I just got.
Where do you typically find these distributors as well as the GM (gasp - a GM product in my Ford?) HEI mdoule? Junk yards?, eBay?, other sources?
I'm thinking another option would be to go into Autozone/Checker/CarQuest/NAPA and give them the year make and model of a Ford from the 70s that used this distributor and they should have one on the shelf. Can someone give me the specific car/year combo I would need to do so?
I had hoped to be able to use my Ford Interchange Manual to help me find what vehicles used the DS II system. However, after I dusted it off last night and starting looking through it, I realized it doesn't include anything related to my engine.
I had purchased it a number of years ago when working on V8s. One final note, looks like I can purchase new ones from ClassicInlines, provided I have the budget...
Vin Man
Famous Member
I've been reading through the Falcon Six Performance Handbook. Very nicely done. However, this new information has really made me realize the magnitude of what I'm doing with my engine.
I am planning to install an Aussie head on a stock short block with a mild cam (260?) and HW5200 2bbl carb. However, as I was reading the section on heads, I came to realize that I may actually deterioriate the performance of my engine.
If I understood properly, putting on the aussie head, without any other modifications to the engine, will actually increase the overall size of the combustion chamber, lowering my compression ratio and deteriorating the horsepower.
So now, I think I need to get the head (and engine block too?) milled to reduce bring the overall combustion chamber back down to ~ stock size. Or, put in taller pistons?
Wow....
I am planning to install an Aussie head on a stock short block with a mild cam (260?) and HW5200 2bbl carb. However, as I was reading the section on heads, I came to realize that I may actually deterioriate the performance of my engine.
If I understood properly, putting on the aussie head, without any other modifications to the engine, will actually increase the overall size of the combustion chamber, lowering my compression ratio and deteriorating the horsepower.
So now, I think I need to get the head (and engine block too?) milled to reduce bring the overall combustion chamber back down to ~ stock size. Or, put in taller pistons?
Wow....
Vin Man":3li6c1v8 said:
It will probably decrease compression. I'd go ahead an CC the heads you have now and the Aussie head when you get it just to compare. However, it flows so much better than the log head that it will still increase horsepower. The aussie head is indeed that much better than the log.
The easiest way to put compression back in would be to use the HSC Tempo pistons. They are exactly the same as the 200/250 parts except they are flat-tops instead of dished. David and Dennis' compression calculator at http://falconperformance.sundog.net/compcalculator.asp will help you make the right decision.
Howdy Back Vin and All:
We measure the volume of the combustion chambers in cubic centimeters (cc). That measure is part of the total volume of the inside of a single cylinder.
1st decide on what your goal compression ratio will be. Measure the volume of your Aussie head and report back and we can talk about the best way to achieve it. However, decking the top of the block to zero is a worth while component of any rebuild. It will tighten the deck clearance and improve the quench effect and combustion efficiency.
The flow potential of the Aussie, Argentina and CI heads are significantly higher than a log head. To utilize the potential you will likely need to move up in the rpm range- more cam and more carb.
Don't get in a rush. Read, think and plan thoroughly.
Adios, David
We measure the volume of the combustion chambers in cubic centimeters (cc). That measure is part of the total volume of the inside of a single cylinder.
1st decide on what your goal compression ratio will be. Measure the volume of your Aussie head and report back and we can talk about the best way to achieve it. However, decking the top of the block to zero is a worth while component of any rebuild. It will tighten the deck clearance and improve the quench effect and combustion efficiency.
The flow potential of the Aussie, Argentina and CI heads are significantly higher than a log head. To utilize the potential you will likely need to move up in the rpm range- more cam and more carb.
Don't get in a rush. Read, think and plan thoroughly.
Adios, David
kuhlou
Well-known member
talked to Stovebolt today, and they will sell an electric choke for the 5200 for $12 additional. He talked to me about NOT bolting the stovebolt adaptor directly to the intake, but "clamping" it on instead?? Anyone familiar with this method for mounting the adaptor? He was pretty busy and didn't have much time to discuss today. He did mention the hood clearance issue and said he may have an afermarket air cleaner to fit. Probably "old news", but wanted to pass it on.
Vin Man
Famous Member
I'm just about done making the decisions for my engine rebuild. I'm going to go with the Duraspark II ignition setup, and keep the stock rockers for now. I eventually will upgrade to roller rockers with the 1.6 ratio, but for now I'm trying to keep in my budget.
For the block, I'll go with flat top pistons. I plan to keep the crank stock. I believe my last decision point before I bring the block into the machine shop for machining and reassembly is the cam.
I want a mild cam. One that gives me better lift, but doesn't lope too much. I believe I have narrowed it down to one of the following two choices from classic inlines:
264S-110: 264/264 - 214/214 - .450/.450 - 110* - 1400-5000
264S-112: 264/264 - 214/214 - .450/.450 - 112* - 1600-5200
There is a lot of information on this forum, along with the classic inlines tech forum regarding cam selection. Frankly, I'm still a bit confused.
1. What do you think of my choices given my desire for a daily driver that gets good fuel economy but still has a little rumble?
2. What will the difference between the 2 cams I've selected?
3. Would you suggest a different cam?
For the block, I'll go with flat top pistons. I plan to keep the crank stock. I believe my last decision point before I bring the block into the machine shop for machining and reassembly is the cam.
I want a mild cam. One that gives me better lift, but doesn't lope too much. I believe I have narrowed it down to one of the following two choices from classic inlines:
264S-110: 264/264 - 214/214 - .450/.450 - 110* - 1400-5000
264S-112: 264/264 - 214/214 - .450/.450 - 112* - 1600-5200
There is a lot of information on this forum, along with the classic inlines tech forum regarding cam selection. Frankly, I'm still a bit confused.
1. What do you think of my choices given my desire for a daily driver that gets good fuel economy but still has a little rumble?
2. What will the difference between the 2 cams I've selected?
3. Would you suggest a different cam?
vin man - i am a believer of getting the quench distance correct and then sorting out the head CC - wether its a log/2v/mikes Al or whatever head .
imo its no use to get your comp ratio up by skimming the head /changing pistons if you still have an appreciable quench distance.
if quench is correct then you may not have to change pistons and / or a minimum skim of the head to give you the comp ration required.
so you may /will need to get some accurate measureing done ( a steel straight edge acoss the bores and check with feeler guages to the piston crown at TDC to get the distance down the bore plus measure the old head gasket thickness add the two distances and subtract 40 thou to give the amount to deck the block.to give the min 40thou quench clearance) .
i think CZLN6 mentioned this in one of his posts above- need to get this approx 40 ( or less) thou
i am currently skimming my 200 block to give about 37 thou squish
min quench will allow best use of low octane petrol and minmise pinging on a higher comp ratio
have alook at these post ( by falcon60) where he has got the quench is 40 - 35 thou by decking the block so the pistons stick out the top of the block by 5 - 10 thou ( and his experience of driving the reworked engine )
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
brett
melbourne
imo its no use to get your comp ratio up by skimming the head /changing pistons if you still have an appreciable quench distance.
if quench is correct then you may not have to change pistons and / or a minimum skim of the head to give you the comp ration required.
so you may /will need to get some accurate measureing done ( a steel straight edge acoss the bores and check with feeler guages to the piston crown at TDC to get the distance down the bore plus measure the old head gasket thickness add the two distances and subtract 40 thou to give the amount to deck the block.to give the min 40thou quench clearance) .
i think CZLN6 mentioned this in one of his posts above- need to get this approx 40 ( or less) thou
i am currently skimming my 200 block to give about 37 thou squish
min quench will allow best use of low octane petrol and minmise pinging on a higher comp ratio
have alook at these post ( by falcon60) where he has got the quench is 40 - 35 thou by decking the block so the pistons stick out the top of the block by 5 - 10 thou ( and his experience of driving the reworked engine )
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
brett
melbourne
Vin Man
Famous Member
As you saw in my recent post, I'm back at it with my engine upgrade.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54272
I haven't had a chance to call any shops today, but I'm still leaning towards just tearing my engine down, having it cleaned, honed, and then replace my cam.
I've started building my list of parts to ask Santa for. Looks like I'll put my original ignition system back in for now, and then next year, funds providing, upgrade to DUI system.
Still need cam, lifters, gaskets, fuel pump, motor mounts, carb adapter for HW5200, headers....
I can't wait to get this done.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54272
I haven't had a chance to call any shops today, but I'm still leaning towards just tearing my engine down, having it cleaned, honed, and then replace my cam.
I've started building my list of parts to ask Santa for. Looks like I'll put my original ignition system back in for now, and then next year, funds providing, upgrade to DUI system.
Still need cam, lifters, gaskets, fuel pump, motor mounts, carb adapter for HW5200, headers....
I can't wait to get this done.
Vin Man
Famous Member
As I've never built a complete motor before, and I'm considering doing this one myself, I took advantage of an opportunity.
As I've mentioned, I have a core 200 engine. It is original - never been gone through. It is also in bad shape - been exposed to the elements for years.
Anyway, my thought was to completely disassemble the core to see how involved it would be. I'm thinking, if I can take it apart, I can put it together, right?
I realize, when I do my good motor, I'll need to take a lot of pictures and keep track of what came from each cylinder - connecting rods, end caps, etc.
I successfully got the core broken down except for the cam. It won't come out. It must be stuck. Any suggestions on how to remove it? The lifters are out of the way and I'm wondering if there is some type of puller I can use to get it out of there.
Thanks.
As I've mentioned, I have a core 200 engine. It is original - never been gone through. It is also in bad shape - been exposed to the elements for years.
Anyway, my thought was to completely disassemble the core to see how involved it would be. I'm thinking, if I can take it apart, I can put it together, right?
I realize, when I do my good motor, I'll need to take a lot of pictures and keep track of what came from each cylinder - connecting rods, end caps, etc.
I successfully got the core broken down except for the cam. It won't come out. It must be stuck. Any suggestions on how to remove it? The lifters are out of the way and I'm wondering if there is some type of puller I can use to get it out of there.
Thanks.
Take lots of pics. As for the puller, try installing the cam drive sprocket with the bolts backed about 1/4" to 1/2", then use it to lightly "slide hammer" the cam out.
Vin Man
Famous Member
I don't have the lifters completely out, but they are not interfering with the cam. This block is pretty gummed up. Once I get the cam out, I'll be able to get to the lifters and push them all the way out.
I plan on replacing the cam bearings and cam anyways. This is an "experiment". I want to learn on this core, and then do it to the "real" engine.
I plan on replacing the cam bearings and cam anyways. This is an "experiment". I want to learn on this core, and then do it to the "real" engine.
Vin Man
Famous Member
I got the motor back from the guys at Baker Machinery. They did all the machine work for me and assembled the short block. Now I'm starting to build the motor to get it ready to put back into the Mustang.
Here's a couple of shots with the oil pan and timing cover re-installed.
Here's a couple of shots with the oil pan and timing cover re-installed.
arty:
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