Engine Upgrade

stang65":htrk4d65 said:
hi
cool project
looks good
where did you get your aussie head
looking for one
bye marcus

Hi Marcus. Mine came directly from Australia. I contacted the Antioch Mustang Stable here in Mesa, Arizona. 1-480-357-1006. I talked to Pat, the owner, and told him I was looking for one. He has a source in Australia that got me the head and the intake.

Do you want to contact Pat or would you like me to contact him for you?

You may also consider the head that Classic Inlines sells. They sponsor this website.

-Vinny
 
How much did it end up costing with shipping and machine work done on the head? I've trying to decide if I want to save up the extra money to get an OZ head or Mikes.
 
bookworm007":ty6in0ok said:
How much did it end up costing with shipping and machine work done on the head? I've trying to decide if I want to save up the extra money to get an OZ head or Mikes.

I spent at least $800 on head work alone. If I was doing it again, I would go with Mike's.

I don't have the amount I orignally spent on the head, intake , shipping/handling. I would guess I spent about $750.
 
I just read through your post again and don't see the specifics you had done on the head. My first guess is you paid too much. I paid $400 to have mine rebuilt, granted mine is the U.S. version. I don't see how that would make much difference though. I hope for that money, you had some "extras".
 
Definitely got over charged in my opinion. I won't be going back.

I had all machine work done, along with new valves, guides, springs, retainer clips. If it could be replaced, it was.

I did not get it ported/polished which makes the cost I paid even worse, I know.
 
I'll add some more pics today but wanted to share a 20X factor I encountered yesterday.

Remember, 20X factor is when something winds up taking at least 20 times longer than you originally planned.

Went to install the alternator yesterday and I think I encountered the perfect storm of modifications.

Before I started this project, everything was stock except the A/C. I had converted the car over to Classic Air's aftermarket setup since I drive the car a lot and its gets hot here in Arizona.

The a/C compressor is now located on the passenger side of the engine, below the alternator.

With the Aussie head, and Classic Inline's headers, the alternator would not mount onto the bracket without hitting the headers.

I basically wound up cutting some flat stock and drilling a couple holes to move the alternator closer to the battery tray to clear the headers.

Won't know if I got pulley alignment exact until I get the vehicle started, but it looks good right now.

Pics coming soon.
 
Just FYI, you are going to have to clean the paint off the stud on the temperature sender at the back of the head or you won't get any signal from it.
 
Here are a couple pics. Sorry for the bad lighting:

P1010904.jpg
P1010905.jpg
 
MPGmustang":1t673w29 said:
how does' it line up? i think i might do this too when i get my dual headers.

Looks to be straight as far as I can tell. I should have it running this weekend and I'll be able to verify that belts are tracking properly.
 
GOT IT RUNNING TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All that's left is to finalize the installation of throttle cable, then I'll be driving it to the exhaust shop for dual exhaust on Monday.

Here it is - listen for yourself!


 
Do you still have AC?
The AC/alternator bracket on my Fairmont has the alternator on the bottom and the AC on top. I was just wondering if that setup might work for you?
 
JackFish":3n7o0gpa said:
Do you still have AC?
The AC/alternator bracket on my Fairmont has the alternator on the bottom and the AC on top. I was just wondering if that setup might work for you?

Yes, I still have A/C. I was able to get this to work by slightly moving the alternator closer to the battery tray. Thanks.
 
Just wanted to post an update.

I ordered a new 2100 from Pony Carbs this week. I've been running with a 1.08 but believe I'm getting too much fuel. Also, I'm not the greatest when it comes to carb rebuilding, so I thought I would have Pony Carbs do their thing. I should get the new carb end of next week. It will be a 1.02 venturi.



After the initial start up of the car, I did have to go back and remove headers and replace gasket. Second time around, I used the copper ultra RTV with the header gasket from Classic Inlines. No more header leaks.

The dual exhaust I got at Apache muffler. I'm really happy with the MagnaFlow Fuel Opens. Great sound.

I had purchased a DUI used, and it needed some TLC. Sent it out to Performance Distributors and they fixed it right up - no charge. Apparently, an epoxy seal had broke loose so they just redid it and sent it back. I think I may have got a new gear as well - but I'm not complaining. I'll put the DUI back on when I get the carb. Right now, running stock distributor and coil with Petronix.

After years of only having one brake light, I finally found the problem. The turn signal cam was shorting out the brake light. The cam that was in the column snapped, and I replaced it today. While I've ordered a complete new switch assembly that will require running new wires through the column, the cheap cam from Autozone will keep me going for now.

I am very pleased with the new engine. No regrets at this point.

Next step is to add a power brake booster to the 4 wheel drum brakes. After that, I'm taking a break from spending money.... I hope. :lol:
 
Well, as for my genral question. What can I say I was new to the site and was using that as a introduction, also getting some info. on what are some possible new things that I could do since you all have done more to you cars then I...

Lidwig, thanks for speaking up for me.

Dj
 
What a difference a good carb makes!

I've been messing around and trying to make the most out of an Autolite 2100 that I got off eBay. I paid about $75 for it, and put a rebuild kit into it. I've also had it on and off the car a number of times trying to get it tuned right. It is a 1.08 venturi.

My buddy that's been helping me with the build decided I needed a present. So I contacted Pony Carbs, and John built me a 1.02 carb. What a difference! This carb runs smoother and I have no hesitation whatsoever anymore. The slight surging I was getting is also gone.

I was thrilled with my Autolite 1100 that Pony originally built for me when I was running the stock engine. I again and more than impressed with their products.
 
17 miles per gallon!

Just checked the mileage. I'm getting 17 mpg with my setup. I just did my 500 mile oil change last weekend.

17 is an improvement over my starting point. If memory serves me correctly, I was gettin 13 mpg with my stock setup with petronix and autolite 1100.

Now, I've got more horepower, better driveabilty, way cool sound, 2 bbl carb, and better fuel efficiency! Woo hoo!
:party:
:beer:
 
I consider this post a blog of my improvements. Thought I would take the time to summarize what I think I've done to date from memory:

New motor mounts
Short block bored 0.040 over
10/10 on the polished crank
Dishtop pistons
Classic Inlines 264 cam
Harmonic balancer
Oil pump
Fuel pump
Hydraulic lifters
Pushrods
Adjustable rockers
Oz 250 Head with complete rebuild
OZ250 Intake
Autolite 2100 Carb with 1.02 Venturi
Throttle cable setup
DUI Ignition
Classic Inlines headers
MagnaFlow Wide Open dual exhaust
Rebuilt radiator
C4 Shift kit
Tranny reseal
Shiny new Edlebrock air cleaner
 
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