Exhaust In Crossflow Intake

[Anonymous]

Has anyone experimented with blocking off the exhaust piping which runs through the Crossflow Intake? My engine is a carburated Crossflow. I just remember an old trick from some of my Pontiac days was to block off the exhaust which ran under the carb which allowed the carb to run a little cooler. Living in the southern USA it never really gets that cold and I was wondering if I could do a way with some of this unnecesary heat. Thanks for any input.
Dave

 

[xctasy]

Easier done than said!

NewZealand spec Australian cars from 1976 to 2004 never got EGR. Remove the EGR valve and pipe, then cut up a piece of metal plate on the alloy intake to cover the heating passage. The add RTV/Silcone/Red Cote to the passage, and bolt on the two 7/16 or 11mm bolts which held the EGR valve on. The exhast header just needs an imperial allen bolt to blank off the tube.

If they are working well, I'd keep the EGR and make it a feature. You loose about 3% max hp, and a slight amount of economy, but if its working, why ditch it?

 

[Anonymous]

ive just removed the egr from my cortina as it fell apart and was a massive vacume leak considering its now not getting a massive gutfull of fresh air it runs 10x better better than it ever has imo but maby thats cause ive been driving my 4x4 for the past 2 weeks and the corty feels like a rocket now lol

 

[MustangSix]

Speedy, I don't think exhaust gasses were piped under the crossflow manifold for heat. There is a passage under the manifold, but it is for coolant. The EGR feeds the intake thru another passage, IIRC. I could be mistaken, but that is what I recall from looking at the stock crossflow manifold I used to have.

The coolant flow is easily blocked off, but keep in mind that atomization, vaporization, and hence, driveablilty may suffer on cooler days, especially during engine warmup.

 

[Anonymous]

Hello Jack,
Yea, I have both pipeing of exhaust and coolant into the intake. I was wondering about the coolant as well. I would like to rid myself of both of them if possible. I just wasn't sure, not getting into the engine yet if the coolant was also piped into the head. I don't want to over heat the head. How bad do you suppose the vapor lock would be? It only gets down to freezing a couple weeks or maybe a month a year, and usually it only lasts for a couple of days at a time when it does. I would have thought vapor problems were more prevelant when the engine got hot, and atomization would improve since it's usually 80 degrees or more.
Also, like pcman, all the vacume lines, all three miles of it, on this engine aren't in the best of shape. There's another accesory next to the EGR valve (it's round and about the same size as the EGR valve with a couple of electrical connections) maybe a sensor of some sort, that I would also like to get rid of. I'm not sure what this does. It looks more like emmisions stuff than a needed sensor though.

I would like to just strip everything down to the bare neccesities. It looks like the only real vacume requirements would be (please correct me if I'm wrong) the advance for the distributor, the actuater(sp?) for the heater and what ever is required for the weber, which also has me baffeled.

Seems when I work the throttle that only one of the butterflies opens up. Does the other barrel work off of vacume or is there a linkage or method of making it mechanical?

So xtaxi,
Was the only difficult part in removing the EGR, making the plate that covers up it's hole?

Thanks for all the help guys. Getting this engine yesterday has got me pumped up. I'm real excited. I won't ask any more questions for now but I will be needing the specifications for micing, miceing, mikeing, uh... I need to measure my crank journels and cylinders if anyone knows where I might find that info. Thanks guys,
Dave

 

[xctasy]

Speedy asked:-

So xtaxi,
Was the only difficult part in removing the EGR, making the plate that covers up it's hole?

That's right. Stock En Zee Falcons had just the blankoffs, and that was it.

As for the water, the hoses that fill the mainfold must be supplied with water at all times. You can by-pass the manifold if you like, but the coolant flows from the two side holes at the front, and as long as it flows in a circuit from the pipes in the head, then you'll be okay.

Clear as mud? :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

Hello again xtaxi,
Yea, that's perfectly clear.

Blankoffs huh? Sounds like there's a factory plate available for the resourcefull to block off that hole where the EGR valve goes. Are there many of these around? I need one. So how did the En Zee's run and what years where those from? While I know they were making improvements in these engines as years went by, but, how did the pre-emmision or non-EGR engines run in comparison to their emmisions counter part? Or, Were the En Zee Falcons' pre-emmisions vehicles or was the EGR delete designed intentionally for performance sake? MustangSix is probably right in his statement about the exhaust tubeing coming into the intake, not being for heat rather EGR, but despite the tubeing being insulated and being designed for EGR and an aluminum intake, spent exhaust gas is too hot to be running under the carb. I don't know, maybe it's for both. All the old V8's have exhaust running under the carb and it's not there to be recycled rather to help warm up that carb. Now I can see this being helpfull if you live in a cold climate, but if you live in the heat, blocking this passage is always good for a few ponies. I've blocked off that passage in several instances with V8's and it's always helped. It sometimes will take a few more minutes to warm up if it's cold outside, but, with the exception of really cold days, after you crank the car for the first time on any given day, you won't notice it for the rest of the day.

I hope I'm not boring all you guys. I love simple little modifications, or super tuning a stock engine, or factory performance parts, or working tons of small free secrets building a super effeceint engine that's both stock and out runs your buddy who just spent a ton of cash on all his performance goodies. I just get amazed sometimes at how well you can get some engines to run using factory or stock parts. I guess that partially explains my desire and passion to import an Aussie engine in the first place. I look at this engine and it clearly has much more potential than my old 250. I'm not even sure what I have or what vintage the engine is. On the block it's marked 84DA8015AA S. It's aluminum headed with a Weber carb on it. It looks to be in really good shape and I can hardly wait to get the build going. I am still needing the factory specifications so I can figure out which rings and bearings to order with the rebuild kit. Maybe a book? Chilton's? How about that hot rod book for sixes? That sounds like a must have. Does that have Aussie specs in it? Alright guys, I'm about to go visit Lefty Lucy. I'm sure I'll have some more questions for you as it comes apart. I guess I need to order that performance book as well to look for some more secrets. I've never tweeked a six before other than distributor and carb work, nor a Weber for that matter. This is going to be cool. Talk soon,
Dave

 

[xctasy]

Give me a secure Post Office box address, and I'll send the factory blank-offs over to you.

The Kiwi Falcons had no emission regulations at all until 2004, so any Falcon assembled by Ford New Zealand had no Australian Design rule emmisions.

1.The Aussie cars from 1973 to 1976 were US 1968 compliant, and

2. from 1976 to 1986, they passed US 1973.

3.Aussie cars after 1986 passed US 1975, or EEC 1986 unleaded.

First one was ADR 27
Second ADR 27A
Third, ADR 37.

All NZ assembeled cars from 1976 to 2003 had the emission devices blanked off. They were CKD kits, completely Knocked Down. CBU, or Completely Built Up, were imports from Austalia, and had the emission gear intact.

The Kiwi market was tiny, with less than 100 000 sales per year, and about 4500 Falcon sales a year. Ten years ago there were only 3 million people to about 22 million Aussies. The Oz market sold about 65 000 Falcons a year.

There is a factory part number on the blank-off peices.

They are metal, and light, so won't cost anything to send.

I'm not able to help in the bigger items, as I'm busy with assembling a project for another Texan.

 

[Anonymous]

Speedy,

the sensor you refer to, is that on the left hand side of the carbeurettor, with two or three pins in a square plug? If so, thats a coolant temperature sensor, used to supply information to the ignition computer.

Also, if this is the case, then it is Extremely Likely you have an XF Unleaded Petrol motor. Your block already features a 1-piece rear main seal, and if its a VERY Late XF block, it'll be able to accept a 12-counterweight OHC crank. It'll also likely feature the kidney shaped combustion chamber, and have EFI notches cast into the ports.

If you dont mind, would you mind posting the first six digits of the engine number? You'll find it stamped into the bulge of the water pump, on the left hand side of the block. It'll read something like JG23YJ. These decode into where the vehicle was manufactured (JG = Victoria, JH = Queensland), Vehicle application (23 = Falcon 500/GL/GLi), and month+year manufactured. The month and year manuf. will be all that we'd need to tell its vintage.. and where it was made and what it was in will be good for oesoteric value

 

[Anonymous]

Hello Discokin6,
Took me a few days to respond. Had to spend some time in the hospitle. Sould be all fixed up now though. The number on my block is 84DA8015AA S. But what you described on the sensor sounds just like what I have. Yea, it would be cool if I have the kidney shaped chambers, but the I think the motor is supposed to be a plain old DA engine. It does have miles of vacume hose and more sensors than usual. It did come with a C4 bell housing. If this was a XF engine, what would a 12-counterweight OHC crank do for me? Is it just a well ballanced forged crank? Let me know if you can make heads or tails out of the engine number. It was on the block under the intake manifold.
Dave

 

[Anonymous]

One more number I found on the front of the head: 7 4 Z C Not sure the significance.

OK, Here's the number. I found it, and like you said it similiar to the number you listed. My number is:

JG23 FA
2029C0

 

[xctasy]

There is a factory part number on the blank-off peices.

They are metal, and light, so won't cost anything to send.

I'm not able to help in the bigger items, as I'm busy with assembling a project for another Texan.

The factory blank-off plate will be sent on Saturday. Part Number 76DA-9F476-AA. It fits anything from a 1976 to 1993 OHV cross-flow engine.

It's got two bolts. The heating tube from the exhast has a very hard to shift hexangonal headed grub screw, and there is one in the intake manifold as well. I tried to remove the bolts, but broke my 10 mm allen key in the process!

 

[xctasy]

I've been meaning to get it sent. Sorry for the delay.

 

[Anonymous]

That's allright. I'm almost at a point of needing it. While I don't have the engine transplanted yet, I am getting close. I just got the tranny married up to the engine and am ready to drop it. Probably in a day or two, but it looks like I have to leave the state. Going to Boston to do some work. Gotta pay for my toys ya know.
Dave

 

[Anonymous]

One more number I found on the front of the head: 7 4 Z C Not sure the significance.

OK, Here's the number. I found it, and like you said it similiar to the number you listed. My number is:

JG23 FA
2029C0

Argh. Just found this post.. again.

Anyways, your motor is from a base model Falcon sedan, assembled July 1985. There is a likelyhood its already unleaded, I'm not sure if Ford sold unleaded falcons before the unleaded petrol rule was passed into law. It Should have the kidney shaped chambers, but I've seen XFs around that don't - presumably they've been fitted with an exchange head in the past, though. As for the 12-counterweight crank, I believe that was mainly fitted to reduce NVH, however it should allow a better balancing job to be carried out, allowing some more top end grunt.

PS, looking at Ex Taxi's pics posted, how many others out there have had the intake manifold waterfittings shear off? Its happened to a few manifolds I've had..

 

[xctasy]

Water fittings are pretty bad. I've never used the water heating, as all my cross flows have in the past been LPG, and water heating isn't needed.